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Double cardan rear drive shaft without SYE

PatrickH

PatrickH

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'90 Blazer, 241C, 4" lift blocks.
There is no way to get proper pinion/ output shaft and U-joint angles with the stock driveshaft. I'll eventually be doing a shackle flip. In the mean time, I'd like to have a double cardan shaft made while maintaining the reverse slip on the stock transfer case. I can then still use the same rear driveshaft when I flip the shackles, abd for now I can shim the pinion up properly to run a D/C shaft. So my question, those of you running a D/C shaft with the reverse slip, where did you have yours built? And, do they seem to work OK? I know a slip yoke eliminator would be the correct way, but the budget is tight. I normally get all my driveshafts {Jeep} from Tom Woods, but I see there are other companies selling them. Any feedback/ input is appreciated!
 
I'm just not sure about hanging a double cardan joint from the transfer case slip output shaft.
 
Lots of people do it. I think the key is staying on top of it.

I have done several on different rigs over the years it seems if you ignore vibration it goes from bad to awful pretty quick
 
I don't ignore vibrations, which is why I need to get this taken care of.;) I've had two other full size Blazers, several full size trucks, and 8 or 10 lifted Jeeps, so I'm no stranger to drive train setup.
I always prefer to set drive line angles properly, whether they vibrate or not.
I guess I'll just have one built by Tom Woods. Dennys Driveshaft and Driveshaft Superstore are prevalent, but I've not used them personally.
 
I had one for several thousand miles. Built it from a Cadillac car that had a th400. 1350 cv. Pretty straight forward.
 
I bought both front and rear driveshafts from Tom Woods. I also had the rear driveshaft lengthened after more lift. No complaints.......period.
 
wheels87k5 said:
I bought both front and rear driveshafts from Tom Woods. I also had the rear driveshaft lengthened after more lift. No complaints.......period.
Click to expand...
I've had 5 drive shafts made by Tom Woods without issue. Both shafts currently in my '67 CJ5A are from him.
 
Most all of the places you will use the same Spicer or Neapco parts to make the shaft....I would use whoever is closest to you to save on shipping. Or you could buy the parts and take them to a driveshaft builder near you and have them make it.
I've used HAD, Dennys, and a local shop over the years, all without a problem.
 
I guess my biggest question was about using a DC shaft with the stock reverse slip 241.
I'll give Tom Woods a call. Thanks for ya'lls input.:)
 
Buy once, cry once. Get the SYE and CV driveshaft and never look back. I did it and that is one of the best investments I have done to my Blazer.
 
Sure you can run one. 91, 241, ORD shackle flip. You can see where I got mine.






I had to rotate the rear axle pinion up quite a bit to get the pinion angle to match the shaft angle. I've got an 8 degree shim in there to pull it up. Keep in mind that the CV shaft does not have the driveline angles set the same way it would be if it didn't have the CV. The pinion angle and shaft angle need to match. The CV takes up all the difference in the front angles. I can run mine at 80 on the freeway without a hint of shake.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Sure you can run one. 91, 241, ORD shackle flip. You can see where I got mine.






I had to rotate the rear axle pinion up quite a bit to get the pinion angle to match the shaft angle. I've got an 8 degree shim in there to pull it up. Keep in mind that the CV shaft does not have the driveline angles set the same way it would be if it didn't have the CV. The pinion angle and shaft angle need to match. The CV takes up all the difference in the front angles. I can run mine at 80 on the freeway without a hint of shake.
Click to expand...
Yep, I know how to set them up..;) Thanks for the pics!
 
yeah, no reason to shy away from the slip
I only eliminated it because of two reasons.
1) I'd rather the shaft collapse instead of the shaft ramming into the TC when I'm gettin' crazy :D
2) Beat the crap out of it, if I break and need to remove, remove, no biggie no mess
 
K85 Octane said:
yeah, no reason to shy away from the slip
I only eliminated it because of two reasons.
1) I'd rather the shaft collapse instead of the shaft ramming into the TC when I'm gettin' crazy :D
2) Beat the crap out of it, if I break and need to remove, remove, no biggie no mess
Click to expand...

That is why they made gatorade bottles and duct tape. :pimp:
 
The SYE is better because the slip is less likely to "stick" in the shaft than in the T-case and the longer shaft means better driveline angles. At a couple inches of lift or long wheelbase it probably doesn't matter, but for a K5 that will see over 4" you really should consider it.
 
I went with the SYE because it helps a little with the length and the load on the rear TC bearing is less than having a slip yoke and a heavy CV joint rotating more than 12" from the bearing in a slip yoke setup.
 
I've been running a Wood's double CV shave for 7 years on my 241 with slip yoke. The only issue you might need to deal with is the pinion angle towards the transfer case.

Everything I've have seen says that with a standard drive shaft is set to 6 degrees down. With a double CV shaft you point the rearend pinion to zero IE straight at the trans case. My rearend pinion is pointed straight at the 241 output shaft. I have zero chatter or vibration.
 
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