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Double crossover?

that was the thought with the idler arm setup, thats why I like that design. Wish I hadn't covered up the holes on the frame of my s10 I could have run the idler arm setup... oh well.
 
wow, i was gone for a few hours and this thread took off. i like the idea of the drag link in that pic that was posted. what if i made a link that was bent so it would clear the leafs or tie into the tie rod without so much angle on the joints. will regular tie rod ends work for this? would i need to weld some brackets onto the tie rod to bolt the drag link to or how should i go about doing this?
 
sled_dog said:
right off ORD's site...

steering1.JPG

front%20suspension1.JPG

how could you make this work with leaf springs ??? wont you or could you push your spring right up and into that pivot arm ???
 
PsychoticDeadGuy said:
edit: Anyone get the new Peterson's 4wheel and off road magazine? there is a steering article and they talk about different crossover steering systems. the double crossover has a link from the steering box that goes to a bellcrank on the other frame rail and then from there it has a link that goes to the driver side knuckle with a tie rod. you wouldnt need the flat top knuckle for the passenger side at all. how wouldw you set up the bellcrank system on a K5? what kind of truck could i find this type of set up on? any one ever do it? oh, and the reason i am asking is because i want to do a cheap crossover for my 10b until i find a d60. and i cant find a flat top knuckle for the passenger side.
Why not use a 2wd Steering box (or just the 2wd sector shaft), pitman arm, center link and idler arm? Run a drag link from the passenger side on the center link to a steering arm on the driver side. :confused:
 
richheezee said:
Why not use a 2wd Steering box (or just the 2wd sector shaft), pitman arm, center link and idler arm? Run a drag link from the passenger side on the center link to a steering arm on the driver side. :confused:

thats what i wanted to do. i wanted some input on it though...i wanted to see some pics on how to go about doing it...kinda....but do you have any pics of something like that?
 
PsychoticDeadGuy said:
thats what i wanted to do. i wanted some input on it though...i wanted to see some pics on how to go about doing it...kinda....but do you have any pics of something like that?
nope, no pics or input... sorry. i am picking up those exact parts this weekend though. :D except the steering arm. :o
 
The problem with the 2wd idler arms is that they aren't particularly long lasting. Ask any of the old time chevy desert racers about this. In a short time they start allowing their end of the centerlink to move up and down. You'll need to build a better, stronger, longer lasting idler arm if you beat on it much.

The problem with the stock design is that the bearings are not far enough apart to resist large up and down loads. Those will wear out the bearings surprisingly fast. The cure is to figure out how to get the upper and lower idler arm bearings further apart and give the arm itself some decent triangulation so that flexing the arm doesn't become the next problem.
 
PsychoticDeadGuy said:
wow, i was gone for a few hours and this thread took off. i like the idea of the drag link in that pic that was posted. what if i made a link that was bent so it would clear the leafs or tie into the tie rod without so much angle on the joints. will regular tie rod ends work for this? would i need to weld some brackets onto the tie rod to bolt the drag link to or how should i go about doing this?
Check out some jeep sites they call it a z link and there not very much money.
 
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