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Doubler or SM465/205 ?

85k5dsl

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I'm not sure which way to go. Should I use a th400/203/205 behind my 6.2 dsl or a SM456/205 ? I'm running a D60 & 14b w/4.56's.
 
Well, do you want the auto or the stick?

Can you get away with the gearing in the 465/205?

Which one you need/want is really up to you, the 400/203/205 setup has more options and you'd for sure be geared deep enough.
 
What are you going to run for the suspension? Reason I ask is the SM465/np 205 is a short setup. When I switched to 52 inch springs I had way to much droop for any front driveshaft. Tried several High Angle Driveline shafts. Either i would bind the c/v or the slip would pull apart.

In the end the best solution was to do the sm465/np203/np205 doubler. Now I can run a good front shaft with lots of slip and everything is happy.

If you are going to run just the run of the mill lift springs the SM465/NP205 will work fine.
 
That's actually a decent combo behind the 6.2 with 4.56's, gearing wise anyways. I ran that exact combo with 39.5's and didn't feel the need for deeper. With the 6.2 I was able to crawl almost anything I pointed the truck at at idle.

Rene
 
Sure, a doubler behind the 465 is more than enough gearing for even the weakest mill. What I was trying to say is with the at idle torque the 6.2 puts out, combined with it being mechanically governed at idle ~58:1 CR works quite well.

I ran that combo at BB '03 and was absolutely tickled with how well it performed. I did the first half of Pritchett Canyon with my feet flat on the floor...point and steer. That combo made wheeling elegantly incredibly easy. It never stalled once, in fact I am pretty sure it would smoke the clutch at idle before stalling. As it's climbing and the gravity or an obstacle is trying to pull the idle speed under 500 rpm the IP adds fuel itself. Gotta remember even though it's not a Cummins, the 6.2 still makes a ton more tq at idle than a really healthy gasser. It really doesn't need 100:1 to get it done.

Rene
 
Sure, a doubler behind the 465 is more than enough gearing for even the weakest mill. What I was trying to say is with the at idle torque the 6.2 puts out, combined with it being mechanically governed at idle ~58:1 CR works quite well.

I ran that combo at BB '03 and was absolutely tickled with how well it performed. I did the first half of Pritchett Canyon with my feet flat on the floor...point and steer. That combo made wheeling elegantly incredibly easy. It never stalled once, in fact I am pretty sure it would smoke the clutch at idle before stalling. As it's climbing and the gravity or an obstacle is trying to pull the idle speed under 500 rpm the IP adds fuel itself. Gotta remember even though it's not a Cummins, the 6.2 still makes a ton more tq at idle than a really healthy gasser. It really doesn't need 100:1 to get it done.

Rene

Remember that the idea of lower gears isn't just to keep you from stalling the truck, it's control. Being able to go slow and controlled is where it's at :deal:
 
Well, when i did need to go less than 1 mph I used the clutch a little...

Rene
 
Well, when i did need to go less than 1 mph I used the clutch a little...

Rene


I've been there, ask my clutch :haha:

Finally swapped my 465/205 out to a dual t-case setup not so long ago and wouldn't go back. Wish I had done it sooner.

Auto or manual you can't beat having whatever gear choices you want available too you, rather than slipping the torque converter or clutch to make up for not having gears deep enough.
 
I wheel an auto with a doubler, hopped in my buddys truck with a 465/205 in it and looked like an idiot, took me a bit to remember how to drive a manual trans off road.

I think one of the very important things for a manual trans of whatever kind for crawling is a hand throttle. You get good at using that and it helps a ton.

I would pick an auto with a doubler and day over a 465/205.

Even though as has been said a 465/205/6.2 combo would be pretty decent as far as crawling goes
 

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