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doubler vs aftermarket box....UPDATE 3/5/11

LT. said:
Problem with comp crawlers and racers is the weight. How heavy is your full sized versus how much does a comp crawler or racer weigh? Yeah, they work well in the lighter rigs but, I don't think their track record will hold up to our full sizes.

LT.
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Mine is not a lightweight. I know several guys with racers that are over 4000 pounds and a few are in the 5000 pound range and above. I also know of several being run in full size rigs for years without issues. As far as the 2.0 and the 2.72 and shifting the trans, when you shift the trans it isn't nearly as effictive as the t case gearing. I use all the gears in the Atlas on almost every trip out. The 2 to 1 is nice for running high speed and going from trail to trail, 2.72 to 1 works well on the milder trails, and 5.44 to 1 for crawling. From what I gather from Advance is the new 4 spd will have even more gear options. I don't know alot about the Stak and only know of 2 friends of mine running them. Both have had some issues and one of them is for sale. I have nothing bad to say about the Doubler and it is a strong set up. I don't know of any Doubler failures but I have seen 205's blow apart. Nothing is perfect and anything can happen to any of them. Bottom line is what gearing you want and what you want to spend.
 
we have a guy up here that runs an atlas, not sure which one. He can't shift the thing when in any kind of bind. I mean if he's not flat he can't shift. That means no front digs when you need them. I know this is not the case on all atlas t cases. But if you poke around on pirate you can find more than one thread about shifting issues and trying to get them adjusted properly. Plus the parts availability that was mentioned earlier. Good choice PMing chris! IMO
 
ssyork said:
we have a guy up here that runs an atlas, not sure which one. He can't shift the thing when in any kind of bind. I mean if he's not flat he can't shift. That means no front digs when you need them. I know this is not the case on all atlas t cases. But if you poke around on pirate you can find more than one thread about shifting issues and trying to get them adjusted properly. Plus the parts availability that was mentioned earlier. Good choice PMing chris! IMO
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This is the first i've heard about Atlas shifting issues. I can barely shift mine on flat ground. I guess I need to read up on it before I go wheelin.
 
it's come up a few times.... but i dont frequent pirate enough to report...

good topic guys...
 
Frank just run a np203/4 speed atlas doubler. Just think of the gear options. lol
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let's see....nv4500 5 speed....203 doubler.....atlas 4-1 .......how many shifters and gear selections would that be.....:eek1::eek1::eek1::eek1:
 
Mine has bound up and wouldn't shift, all I did was put it in neutral to let the pressure off and shifted the rear out to be in front drive only to dig the front. That has to do with it being a gear driven case and the Detroit. Several years ago when I ran a 205 in my 89 I had the same thing happen several times. It's not a Atlas or 205 problem, it's just getting stupid bound up. If you get bound up bad enough even a 241 won't shift. I was bound up and tried to go to 2wd so I could try to burn the rear down some and couldn't get it out of 4 low.
 
blazininthe73 said:
This is the first i've heard about Atlas shifting issues. I can barely shift mine on flat ground. I guess I need to read up on it before I go wheelin.
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It took me a little time to get mine shifting good. Keep messing with the shift detents and the shifters. I want to mess with mine more over the winter to see if I can get it to shift even easier. They do get a bit easier with age.
 
Adventurous 4x4 said:
It took me a little time to get mine shifting good. Keep messing with the shift detents and the shifters. I want to mess with mine more over the winter to see if I can get it to shift even easier. They do get a bit easier with age.
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I'll try that. Also could be that I've only had it on pavement and have a Detroit out back.
 
for me the decision is between the ORD 203/205 doubler and the black box. I have a twin sticked 205 already so the doubler would be cheaper for me. The thing I am concerned about is right now I don't want to mess with my diff gears. I have 4.10's and 37's and a 350 turbo so I definitely need the lower gear selection. I am just worried that the 4 to 1 in the doubler may not be enough for me so I am leaning toward the black box especially if I found a screamin deal on some 40's or 42's.

I don't know anyone with a black box but know several people with the doubler who swear by them.
 
Adventurous 4x4 said:
Mine is not a lightweight. I know several guys with racers that are over 4000 pounds and a few are in the 5000 pound range and above. I also know of several being run in full size rigs for years without issues. As far as the 2.0 and the 2.72 and shifting the trans, when you shift the trans it isn't nearly as effictive as the t case gearing. I use all the gears in the Atlas on almost every trip out. The 2 to 1 is nice for running high speed and going from trail to trail, 2.72 to 1 works well on the milder trails, and 5.44 to 1 for crawling. From what I gather from Advance is the new 4 spd will have even more gear options. I don't know alot about the Stak and only know of 2 friends of mine running them. Both have had some issues and one of them is for sale. I have nothing bad to say about the Doubler and it is a strong set up. I don't know of any Doubler failures but I have seen 205's blow apart. Nothing is perfect and anything can happen to any of them. Bottom line is what gearing you want and what you want to spend.
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Good points. I guess I should have read your signature before I started typing.:doah: I have the doubler from Off Road Design and I did a lot of research before I went that route. I guess every momma crow thinks their baby crow is the blackest. Meaning I guess I thought I had the best equipment available.

LT.
 
There is nothing wrong with a Doubler. I almost went with one myself. The main reason I didn't is because I will eventually build a tube chassis rig and didn't want the length and weight.
 
Adventurous 4x4 said:
Mine has bound up and wouldn't shift, all I did was put it in neutral to let the pressure off and shifted the rear out to be in front drive only to dig the front. That has to do with it being a gear driven case and the Detroit. Several years ago when I ran a 205 in my 89 I had the same thing happen several times. It's not a Atlas or 205 problem, it's just getting stupid bound up. If you get bound up bad enough even a 241 won't shift. I was bound up and tried to go to 2wd so I could try to burn the rear down some and couldn't get it out of 4 low.
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I agree, you can bind anything up and not allow it to shift. The atlas I am talking about was getting bound up in situations that where not near as bound as myself and Mnorby where in when we where using front digs, sometimes just for fun. Mnorby and I both run Detroits in the back, me in the front to. He has a lock rite in front, and a 203/205. I have a 241/205. So I have to argue the gear drive part. The guy with the atlas has ARB f/r. Just more info on subject, from my very limited experience w/ atlas t cases.
 
well.........been taking with Chris at ORD..to go the route of the double will require...

1) a T400/208 Adapter....that I don't have and will need to find..
2) a 203 range box....supplied by ORD...
3) a doubler kit...supplied by ORD..
4) a new input shaft for my existing 205 ( which means tearing into the 205 )
5) shift rails to twin stick the 205...supplied by ORD
6) triple shifter to stir the gears...Supplied by ORD
7) building a crossmember to hold it all in place... Fab time and materials....
8) driveshaft modifications.....$$$


Still not convinced that a lowmax is not a bad way to go....:dunno::dunno:
 
wasted wages said:
well.........

Still not convinced that a lowmax is not a bad way to go....:dunno::dunno:
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If money is the issue, you can definitely cut some stuff out of that budget. As for ease of installation, the Lomax is definitely the way to go. Gearing will be lower than a stock blazer with 700R4/NP241, not as low as the doubler, but much lower than what you have now. Worst case, if 3:1 wasn't low enough, you could build a doubler with the Lomax. 6:1 would be ridiculously low :D
 
source #'s 2,5 & 6 yourself, if its the money. Plenty of write ups on grinding the rails yourself, and making your own shifters.
 
Remember that the Lomax kit isn't available, we've heard rumors that we may be able to get them again mid next year but nothing for sure.

You'd also miss out on a deeper low range and the choice of 2:1 or 4:1. You'd need to find a way to clock the Lomax case for a flat belly and you'd be in for fabricating a crossmember then anyway.

We sell the Lomax kits, so nothing against them. It's definitely the easier bolt in option.
 
your sig shows 400/205. is it fig 8 style or round 6 ?

if fig 8 style then you dont need a new input for the 205 case.

and if savin money grind the shift rail your self its easy to do . theres pics on here to show how to do it.

and as for a 203 range box just find and 203 from a gm and if not from th400 swap the input over when you install the doubler kit its easy to do. and you can get one from ord.

go to the tech section and look at my 4l80/203/doubler/205 build with tons of pictures.
 
sweetk30 said:
your sig shows 400/205. is it fig 8 style or round 6 ?

if fig 8 style then you dont need a new input for the 205 case.

and if savin money grind the shift rail your self its easy to do . theres pics on here to show how to do it.

and as for a 203 range box just find and 203 from a gm and if not from th400 swap the input over when you install the doubler kit its easy to do. and you can get one from ord.

go to the tech section and look at my 4l80/203/doubler/205 build with tons of pictures.
Click to expand...


Frank said he had a 2.5" stickout on the rear output of the TH400 which means a long input in the 205.
 
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