I installed a tuff country 3" lift kit on my 88 k5. The kit came with a 4" tapered block for the rear. I'm guessing to correct the angle. I have a slight vibration at low speeds now. I am thinking that if I drop the transfer case 1" it'll help get my angles back right? I was hoping that I could avoid all this with a 3" lift. I have to take it to the muffler shop to get the exhaust ran different because the y pipe is 1/8 " below my front drive shaft. Will this get me in the ballpark ? I have read a bunch of threads where people say don't do a transfer case drop and read a bunch where people solved their problems with the drop?
CK5
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Drive shaft vibration/transfer case drop
- Thread starter prolinews
- Start date
it's a bandaid that screws up your front shaft angle worse.. check your current angles with a magnetic angle finder to figure out what shim you need..... make sure your u-joints are ok.. changing the operating angle will show a u-joint heading south in a hurry...
I think you'll need a 3-4* shim in the back. That way the snout is parallel with the tailshaft. I say 4* cause cause that will put you 1* lower, allowing a little bit of upward rotation during acceleration.
I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong lol. If you can have someone tapper that block for you, it would be better than adding a shim. If you can't, maybe get a shim made of the same material and weld it to the block. (after you are sure it helped)
I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong lol. If you can have someone tapper that block for you, it would be better than adding a shim. If you can't, maybe get a shim made of the same material and weld it to the block. (after you are sure it helped)
as mentioned, the axle pointing a degree or 2 lower is fine.. allows for axle wrap.. but generally, they should be pretty equal...
Okay it's starting to make sense to me so theoretically if I had zero angle at tailshaft I should have zero angle at pinion?
as mentioned, the axle pointing a degree or 2 lower is fine.. allows for axle wrap.. but generally, they should be pretty equal...
mmmmmmmmmmmmyes?
Okay it's starting to make sense to me now , I measured it over and over again and pretty much think my tailshaft is between 0 and 2 and the rear pinion is definitely 5 so I need at minimum of a 5 degree shim but preferably a 6 or 7? Where's the best place to order shims?
didn't you say the rear was a tapered block? would spinning it around correct it?
kert at http://diy4x.com/ does nice steel shims....
kert at http://diy4x.com/ does nice steel shims....
As it sits now, does the axle yoke point AT the end of the tailshaft? Meaning, if you draw a line like the above picture, through the axle, does it point directly at the end of the tailshaft?
If it does..... forget shims and go straight to a CV shaft. All problems or any future problems are solved
Everyone goes to a CV shaft sooner or later. (some exclusions apply)
If it does..... forget shims and go straight to a CV shaft. All problems or any future problems are solved
Everyone goes to a CV shaft sooner or later. (some exclusions apply)
I just couldn't be bothered to go back and quote it... CV is overkill for a 3" IMO.. unless yeah, by some chance it's aimed perfectly, than it would be worth the coin to change the shaft setup...
you're taking pics WAY too close.. we need to see what your measuring in relation to the driveline...
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