Driveline vibration (pics/update on pg 4)

[sweetk30]

under the use of the gas pedal its going to point up even more .

and what kind of crap lift gives you basicly 2 blocks to stack like that. lookin at the pics of the block and super thick wedge thats just a time bomb waiting to come flyin out of there.

 

[max 02]

under the use of the gas pedal its going to point up even more .

and what kind of crap lift gives you basicly 2 blocks to stack like that. lookin at the pics of the block and super thick wedge thats just a time bomb waiting to come flyin out of there.

Yeah you need to get that shim out of there, you can buy a tappered block.
And the angle is to steep.
Why not just take the shim out and try it with out.

 

[clandr1]

Yeah you need to get that shim out of there, you can buy a tappered block.
And the angle is to steep.
Why not just take the shim out and try it with out.

I think that's what I'm going to do. It was going just fine w/ the 2.5" blocks in there, but when they installed the lower blocks I asked them to shim it so I didn't have to do a tcase drop... I'm super frustrated at this point and will do the shim removal myself.

Any tips on getting the ubolt nuts off and removing the shim? Should it be pretty simple or will I need to cut down the center pin because it'll be too long when I reinstall without the shim?

 

[Blue85]

That is a huge shim. You may need 2-3 degrees in there, but that looks like 10 or more to me. Just measure it with an angle finder and then do the simple math. Much easier than doing it over and over again. When you take out the shim (and any leafs) the angle at the T-case output will get a little smaller. Aim the pinion like 2 degrees lower than where the T-case output angle is now.

The BEST way to put in shims and blocks is to run the center-bolt down through the whole stack - leafs, block, shim, etc. This makes the whole thing like one big spring pack and is much safer than having a hole and a nub on the block. You can usually score new center-pin bolts at big-rig or driveline shops for a couple bucks. The reason it's hard is that the top of the bolt and bottom of the bolt rest on different angled surfaces. They make tapered shims that go under the head of the center-bolt to solve this. The taper should match the taper of the shim.

It looks like your U-bolts are brand new and they should come right off.

 

[clandr1]

Here are the readings I got from an angle finder app on my Android phone. Not sure what to make of it so hopefully you guys can point me in the right direction.

I took two readings from the bottom:
160.0 at tcase
171.5 at pinion

And two readings from the top:
10 at tcase
23.5 at pinion

What does that mean? I need to decrease the angle at the pinion by about 11-12 degrees?

 

[clandr1]

Bump?

 

[max 02]

Did you get it fixed?

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Here are the readings I got from an angle finder app on my Android phone. Not sure what to make of it so hopefully you guys can point me in the right direction.

I took two readings from the bottom:
160.0 at tcase
171.5 at pinion

And two readings from the top:
10 at tcase
23.5 at pinion

What does that mean? I need to decrease the angle at the pinion by about 11-12 degrees?

Remember as you change the pinion angle the t-case angle will change as well. I would guestimate that taking about 6-7* out at the pinion will get you close.

 

[clandr1]

Remember as you change the pinion angle the t-case angle will change as well. I would guestimate that taking about 6-7* out at the pinion will get you close.

Great point, and thank you for the response! Can you believe this was done by a major four wheel drive parts and accessories installer? Blows my mind that these "professionals" are getting their asses handed to them by a board full of hobbyists.

I really appreciate everyone who is contributing to this thread. I have an appointment to take it back next Friday for new shims. I paid them to do it once, I'm going to have them make it right.

 

[Blue85]

Blows my mind that these "professionals" are getting their asses handed to them by a board full of hobbyists.

Actually the real square-nose Chevy experts are on CK5, not in your local shops.

 

[88jimmy4x4]

Here are the readings I got from an angle finder app on my Android phone. Not sure what to make of it so hopefully you guys can point me in the right direction.

I took two readings from the bottom:
160.0 at tcase
171.5 at pinion

And two readings from the top:
10 at tcase
23.5 at pinion

What does that mean? I need to decrease the angle at the pinion by about 11-12 degrees?

you divide that by two, so reduce 4-6 degrees approx

 

[MTBLAZER89]

you divide that by two, so reduce 4-6 degrees approx

+1 or 2 for pinion wrap under load.