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Driveline vibration (pics/update on pg 4)

Why not just add a zero rate to the front pack to level it out?

Martin
 
I wouldn't remove it. I did that on a previous vehicle and it was bouncy as hell. When you drive it does help the suspension. Why dont you just get a shorter block?
Sadly don't encounter the problem as much these days, but when I was younger and had problems with the truck being too bouncy, it just meant that either me or the GF needed to lose some weight.......
 
I would not remove the overload spring. I did it to a pair of 4" Superlift springs and the spring pack ended up sagging big time in a short amount of time and I had to replace the springs. Believe it or not the main leaf IS supported by the overload spring and removing it WILL affect the rest of the spring pack.


Same here, They lasted one trip, to rausch creek. The axle wrapped, and the springs actually bent. The overload is there for a reason, especialy in a street driven truck.
 
I would remove the leaf above the clamp leaf

Which leaf are you referring too exactly?...like how many up from the overload in that pic?

IMAG0003.jpg
 
I think he's saying the 4th leaf from the bottom, inclusively. Count four leaves from the bottom, #4 is it. the one just above the one attached to the clamp.
 
He's talking about the overload leaf.

Nope, I was actually talking about the 3rd leaf from the bottom. The leaf above the the leaf that holds the clamps. IMO I wouldn't remove the overload for the reasons already stated.
 
Thanks for all the feedback everyone. I had the lift installed at 4WP back in July (yeah, I know, I know :doah:) so I called them and am going to take it in this week to let them fix it. I think they'll just install shorter blocks in the rear as I definitely don't want to mess with removing the overload and having problems down the road.
 
Nope, I was actually talking about the 3rd leaf from the bottom. The leaf above the the leaf that holds the clamps. IMO I wouldn't remove the overload for the reasons already stated.

so is the idea to remove the longest leaf that you can as there is a short unclamped leaf just above the overload.

I was thinking of removing one of mine on my TC leaf packs. I have 2 between the clamped and overload, I havent looked to see if I can remove one above the clamped leaf.
 
so is the idea to remove the longest leaf that you can as there is a short unclamped leaf just above the overload.

I was thinking of removing one of mine on my TC leaf packs. I have 2 between the clamped and overload, I havent looked to see if I can remove one above the clamped leaf.

Honestly I didn’t realize the leaf above the overload was not clamped, When I glanced at the pic I thought it was the clamp leaf. :doah:

Generally you want the springs to get progressively longer from the bottom. You risk the chance of over stressing a spring when there is not enough overlap. If I were to remove a leaf from the pic, I would remove the leaf above the overload since it’s not clamped. Also being the shortest stiffest spring will soften the pack a little. But I would remove the block before a spring.
 
Honestly I didn’t realize the leaf above the overload was not clamped, When I glanced at the pic I thought it was the clamp leaf. :doah:

Generally you want the springs to get progressively longer from the bottom. You risk the chance of over stressing a spring when there is not enough overlap. If I were to remove a leaf from the pic, I would remove the leaf above the overload since it’s not clamped. Also being the shortest stiffest spring will soften the pack a little. But I would remove the block before a spring.

That makes sense, never thought about it that way...thanks :waytogo:

In your opinion by removing that, how much drop would that yield?
 
That makes sense, never thought about it that way...thanks :waytogo:

In your opinion by removing that, how much drop would that yield?


Hard to say, it would depend on current spring rate, spring age/wear, vehicle weight, etc..I would begin with the thickness of that specific leaf.

I would pull it out and see if its enough or too much.
 
Well I had shorter blocks installed in the rear along with shims to point the diff up towards the transfer case. When I got the truck back there was some pretty significant vibration when accelerating and decelerating around 5-10mph. I installed a homemade transfer case drop made from square tubing and it helped, but I still get a little bit of vibration when taking off from a standstill at stop signs, red lights, etc.

Do you think it's possible they shimmed it to point too far up? I wonder if I should remove the shims and keep the transfer case drop in there... Any advice is appreciated.
 
Pics: does this look like the rear diff is pointed too far up? Should I try removing the shim and see if that makes it any better?

DSC03423.jpg


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DSC03421.jpg


DSC03420.jpg


DSC03419.jpg
 
The rear axle is definately shimmed up too high. The u-joint angle at the t-case needs to match that at the pinion.
 
Would be fine for a cv style driveshaft but like scott said it needs to come down some, quite alot actually
 
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