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Dual battery Questions

holy crap that was a great post explaining it. Maybe i should look into this when i get my offroad lights.

Ahh, unless you put enough lights on it to power Rhode Island or run them with the motor off, a big alternator may be all you need. Or two batteries, just directly connected (a la the diesels from the factory.)

It's wenches that get you ... no, sorry, it's WINCHES that get you :haha: A big alternator can maybe keep up with a few lights drawing tens of amps, but the hundreds of amps for a winch ... requires an auxiliary battery, and beating on it, so you want to keep it isolated.

-- A
 
Ahh, unless you put enough lights on it to power Rhode Island or run them with the motor off, a big alternator may be all you need. Or two batteries, just directly connected (a la the diesels from the factory.)

It's wenches that get you ... no, sorry, it's WINCHES that get you :haha: A big alternator can maybe keep up with a few lights drawing tens of amps, but the hundreds of amps for a winch ... requires an auxiliary battery, and beating on it, so you want to keep it isolated.

I once in a while run the lights when i have with the motor off. Last time I did that I was at a bon-fire with a bunch off friends and we needed lights for something(cant remember what), And for some reason I didnt turn em' off. at least there was other vehicals there, to bad no one knew how to hook up jumper cables.:doah: and I figure I am gonna be add another set of lights up front. Plus a winch is in the future so I probaly need the isolator. even though most people just tell me to hook em' up like factory diesles.
 
yeah switch location was perfect.

wiring is easy, they have good instructions

breathers are for front/rear diff & tranny, have tcase line up there also.
 
Why do some people try to make something that is so simple, so complicated????

Dual batteries......

Run a large cable off the positive of the main battery over to the positive on the 2nd battery, then run the ground cable from 2nd battery to bracket on block somewhere.

DONE! Dual batteries.....

ALL the 3/4ton/1ton gas and diesel engine pickups from GM, Ford, and Dodge are basically run this way. Every tractor, semi truck, anything that I've seen with multiple batteries DOESN'T run some isolator seperating batteries.
 
Because running in parallel has it's own set of drawbacks...

boats are a prime example and a good comparison to offroad vehicles, moreso than your standard, everyday vehicles sometimes, due to their "auxilary use" nature..

For years boat where the epitomy in dual batteries, quads, etc.. way more so than cars, trucks... Almost every boat has multiple batteries and house systems.. AND almost all where just wired in parallel... But over the years, the benefits of switching, isolators and now ACR tech have proven to work better..


Contrary to what many may think in here, GM engineering isn't always the best solution..
 
Honestly, the ACR thing I've not read up on ... I am a big fan of *simple*. Odd, 'cuz I'm a computer guy by trade, but maybe that's why I resist complicated solutions, too much Bill Gates in my life :haha:

oh, I forgot to cover this....

for the record, ACR setup is far simpler, less complicated and less likely to leave you on the side of the road than any isolator setup.. It doesn't get any simpler than a jumper between positive posts with the ACR in the middle...
 
Why do some people try to make something that is so simple, so complicated????

Dual batteries......

Run a large cable off the positive of the main battery over to the positive on the 2nd battery, then run the ground cable from 2nd battery to bracket on block somewhere.

DONE! Dual batteries.....

ALL the 3/4ton/1ton gas and diesel engine pickups from GM, Ford, and Dodge are basically run this way. Every tractor, semi truck, anything that I've seen with multiple batteries DOESN'T run some isolator seperating batteries.

This automatically COMBINES the batteries, so if one gets drawn down the other will as well. THAT is why ppl run isolators. When I had a draw on my main battery, my aux battery stayed charged and i was able to combine the batts (put the 2nd one in the system) and start my truck.

Your way is simple, but doesnt add any backup like the way I have it.

Too each their own, I like my setup and its worked well and has proven itself to me to work.
 
This automatically COMBINES the batteries, so if one gets drawn down the other will as well. THAT is why ppl run isolators. When I had a draw on my main battery, my aux battery stayed charged and i was able to combine the batts (put the 2nd one in the system) and start my truck.

Your way is simple, but doesnt add any backup like the way I have it.

Too each their own, I like my setup and its worked well and has proven itself to me to work.

Yes, obviously wiring in parrellel combines two batteries together.... thats the idea....:rolleyes:

My point is that an isolator isn't neccessary. When your main battery is half drawn down due to a draw from just sitting, and the other battery still full, you've got 75% battery power overall. If you just had them wired together you'd still have 75% battery power, as your draw from sitting is going to pull on each battery twice as slow.

Boats are different, they use isolators because people plan to leave them sit for extended periods of time to run ovens, lights, a television..... Vehicles aren't RV's or boats and don't see the same need to run accessories without the engine running.
 
Yes, obviously wiring in parrellel combines two batteries together.... thats the idea....:rolleyes:

My point is that an isolator isn't neccessary. When your main battery is half drawn down due to a draw from just sitting, and the other battery still full, you've got 75% battery power overall. If you just had them wired together you'd still have 75% battery power, as your draw from sitting is going to pull on each battery twice as slow.

Boats are different, they use isolators because people plan to leave them sit for extended periods of time to run ovens, lights, a television..... Vehicles aren't RV's or boats and don't see the same need to run accessories without the engine running.

nice theory, but it doesn't work that way.. batteries reach a point of diminished voltage, where the battery being in the system is detrimental to proper operation of the device. And is better served by the battery with full voltage.. therefore an isolated battery WILL ALWAYS start your truck.. Whereas 2 hammered batteries may not...

Personally, I prefer listening to tunes while camping WITHOUT the motor running.. btw, your not running ovens with 12 volt.... :wink1: maybe an inverter... Most uncharging house DC systems pertain to very similar things one may need on the trail, lighting, windlass, electronics, etc.....
 
nice theory, but it doesn't work that way.. batteries reach a point of diminished voltage, where the battery being in the system is detrimental to proper operation of the device. And is better served by the battery with full voltage.. therefore an isolated battery WILL ALWAYS start your truck.. Whereas 2 hammered batteries may not...

Personally, I prefer listening to tunes while camping WITHOUT the motor running.. btw, your not running ovens with 12 volt.... :wink1: maybe an inverter... Most uncharging house DC systems pertain to very similar things one may need on the trail, lighting, windlass, electronics, etc.....

Amen.

Now, umm, "uncharging house DC systems" ... this must be boat talk.

And a windlass? Is that a talkative woman? One who passes gas? =))

-- A
 
WOW, I hit on a subject that we could talk about for a week and we would have probaly only cover 10% of this.:doah:

Here is a simple question thats gonna come down to a matter of opion. What would be a nice isolator, that you have some sorta manual control, and that aint gonna cost an arm and a leg? I will spend more if I have to, but I would perfer not to.

On a side note, I found my trickel charger today, so I am gonna Charge up the Yellow top.
 
Amen.

Now, umm, "uncharging house DC systems" ... this must be boat talk.

And a windlass? Is that a talkative woman? One who passes gas? =))

-- A

yeah, the ch*t your using when your not running the motors and just hanging out fishing.. windlass is the anchor winch on the front of the boat... The bigger ones make a Warn 8274 look like a Tinker toy...
 
WOW, I hit on a subject that we could talk about for a week and we would have probaly only cover 10% of this.:doah:

Here is a simple question thats gonna come down to a matter of opion. What would be a nice isolator, that you have some sorta manual control, and that aint gonna cost an arm and a leg? I will spend more if I have to, but I would perfer not to.

On a side note, I found my trickel charger today, so I am gonna Charge up the Yellow top.

Since you can't search.... This'll keep you busy for awhile, lots of good tech in alot of these threads...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/search.php?searchid=735524

diode isolators can be had pretty cheap.. They are based on amp rating, and range from $25 to $175 or so, depending on their rating...

here's a page of isolators I had saved... honestly, I haven't looked at, or installed any isolators in the last couple years so I'm not up to speed on the current availabilty... someone probably has a link to a better source.. i've heard of low amp ones as cheap as $25...

You can piece a system together pretty cheap if your not looking for overkill.. but many people are better off just buying a kit for $150, 200 if they can't wrap their head around DC wiring...

http://www.ase-supply.com/category_s/20.htm?gclid=CJzN36O2qpECFUWoGgod2jULdw
 
This automatically COMBINES the batteries, so if one gets drawn down the other will as well. THAT is why ppl run isolators. When I had a draw on my main battery, my aux battery stayed charged and i was able to combine the batts (put the 2nd one in the system) and start my truck.

Your way is simple, but doesnt add any backup like the way I have it.

Too each their own, I like my setup and its worked well and has proven itself to me to work.

It only combines the batteries when they are being charged or when you manual tell it to close and combine the batteries. The ACR is normally open on discharge to protect each battery from the other.

Dik
 
Just don't forget to make the cables long enough to "jump out" whatever system you use just in case of a failure.
 
well my grandpa just reminded me what the battery shop came up with when they tested my yellow top when it was in the truck. On the draw(or something like that) it was only puttin out 8 volts instead of the 12.6.

So I guess I need to invest in another battery when it comes time to do the dual battery setup. I am just gonna buy a standerd deep cyle. I can get them for $67 at the battery shop cause they sell them at cost to me.

anyway so more recomendation on isolators would be great.

Oh and ryoken the first link didnt work, but thanks for the second one. I havnt had a chance to look at it though.
 
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