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Dual exhaust build, '83 GMC pick-up

tRustyK5

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Flowmaster 3" u-fit pipe kit, and a pair of offset inlet/center outlet Summit brand welded chambered mufflers. Muff's appear to be similar to Flowmaster's i've had in the past, but most certainly could be an off brand copy. Either way at $29 each I think they'll be just fine.

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The U-fit pipe kit is http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLO-15937/

Keep in mind that Jeg's has the same kit for $209, which Summit matched. First time I ever asked for a price match from anyone before.

Anyways, my pick-up has the NA 6.2 diesel and the exhaust is literally falling off of it. It's factory 2.25" dual. I will be cutting the existing system off to within a foot or so of the manifolds, welding on an adaptor to get it to 3" and then piecing the rest together using the U-fit pipe. Tailpipes will be a 45 degree exit behind the tires. I'm hoping this keeps any droning to a minimum inside the cab.

It'll be up on stands tomorrow night, hopefully I'll have some good step by step pic's up this weekend, and possibly an after vid so you guys can hear it when it's done.
 
So after parts, shipping and some sweat you're only going to be out around $300 for a complete duals setup? Not too bad if you ask me. I might have to find out how much they'd rape, er charge me to ship some out here.:haha:
 
No, I get raped too...being in Canada. $113 to ship and another $109 in taxes and brokerage to UPS when it arrived. Call it a small $500. What I get is mandrel bent 3" duals done exactly how I want it done. I have paid $500 plus for 2.5" duals at a muffler shop here, and it was 'kink bent'.
 
Yowsa! Shipping is killer. Figures tgat I used to live 15 minutes away from Summit's world HQ and now that I'm in the middle of the pacific I need stuff. Grrr...
 
yeah, but the exhaust tube is heavier than you think, and comes in a fairly large box. 76 lbs just for the exhaust tube...and the box was 48"x24"x24".

The only thing that makes it remotely worth it for me is the Canadian dollar is now worth more than the US dollar. There was a time it would cost $1.50 Canadian for every US dollar...and back then I bought local only, or would drive down and pick it up in person in WA state.
 
That's fair. Don't get me wrong I still pay the shipping too, it just sucks. Can change your budget pretty quick too.
 
I think a vid is all I'm gonna put up, unless I can find a rack to lift it for pic's. Damn 2WD's are hard to get good pics underneath.

I got one side complete today, got the driver's side old stuff removed. Need a couple more cut-off disc's. i did go out and buy a 10' stick of 3" tube locally, of which I'll probably use about 5-6' of. I have more bends than I need...but couldn't get enough straight chunks out of the extra's. I think this kit would be ideal for something about 2 feet shorter than a long bed pick-up. I might have helped if I had headers too.

I did fire it up with one side done, and it already sounds really good. I can't wait to get the driver's side done and get some vid for you guys. It may not be fast, but it's gonna sound killer.
 
I put 2 cherry bomb glasspacks on my '82 K2500,it sounds like a warmed over small block now..--a deep low rumble with a little "fraaaaap" when you wind it up some...sounds "bubbly" at lower speeds--
.I used dinky pipe though,some 1-7/8" O.D. chain link fence pipes I had...
I know bigger is better on a 6.2,but I haven't noticed any loss in power,its always been a slug!..I sawed off the front pipes and welded the galvanized pipe to the "stubs" of the original dual pipes off the manifold,had to use an elbow drom NAPA in the drivers side.
..I knew the studs wouls snap off ,they were whittled away to about 1/4" in the center,and the manifolds looked like I dredged them up from the bottom of the atlantic,and I thought it best to disturb them as LITTLE as possible,or else I'd be pulling the engine to get them off and replace them..
I just pray they last another winter..

I dont think I ever put a "stock" exhaust on any of my many GM trucks..its too easy to make your own--all you need is one 90 elbow for the drivers side and a 45 for the passenger side,you can run straight pipe past the T-case and over the rear axle and straight out the rear,or what I usually do is just put downspouts instead of tailpipes ,or angle the pipes out to the side so they exit before the rear tires..some inpection places wont give a sticker with the pipes exiting the side before the tire,but they dont care if you use downspouts ,which in my opinion is probably worse as far as possible exhaust leakage into the cab!..I dont notoce any odor driving mine with the windows shut...
 
I put flowmasters on my sons 84 K20 with the 6.2 and it sounds awesome maybe even a little peppier. (sp)

You will love the sound. get up next to a retaining wall or a semi while driving under power and you will have a big smile I am sure.
 
I put flowmasters on my sons 84 K20 with the 6.2 and it sounds awesome maybe even a little peppier. (sp)

You will love the sound. get up next to a retaining wall or a semi while driving under power and you will have a big smile I am sure.

Yeah, my 93 has a single 3" pipe with just a cat, no muffler and I can't help but beat the hell out of it every time I drive it. Nothing beats the sound of a v8:D

We'll be heading back to Ohio for a visit in a month and I actually get to drive it again:woot: and see if my sister has been maintaining it...:doah:

hijack off...
 
Well I wouldn't say this one is a slug, but the EGR has been disabled/blocked and the fuel has been turned up. The exhaust on it was factory replacement mufflers and 2" pipe with many kinkled bends. I never liked it, but when I got it it was still in OK shape. I was pretty happy when the one tailpipe fell off. At that point I could show my wife how crappy the exhuast was and get the OK to fix it 'right'. :D

Bob, being 3" pipe the routing is a little tougher, the passenger side goes under the tranny X-member, then heads back up before going straight back to the muffler. The drivers side has to initially go down, 90 and pointed right at the X-member before heading back up and over the X-member. I'd have preferred a tighter 90 on the driver's side, but you need to maintain some real estate around the oil filter. With 2" or 2 1/4" I could get both pipes above the X-member, but with 3" it gets the one pipe within 1/2" of the floor...and the rest tight enough I could pretty much guarantee the pipe would bang if the engine torqued over a bit.

Oh yeah, did I mention I was able to just unbolt the stock exhaust with just a quick spray of WD40 to help it a bit? Even the springs under the nuts look 'newish'. All the hangers unbolted too. When CanCan said this truck never got driven in the winter he was not exaggerating. Alberta (where this truck spent it's first 24 years) is the rust belt, but you'd never know it looking at the underside of this one.

back at it as soon as I finish my coffee. :waytogo:
 
Yeah, my 93 has a single 3" pipe with just a cat, no muffler and I can't help but beat the hell out of it every time I drive it. Nothing beats the sound of a v8:D

We'll be heading back to Ohio for a visit in a month and I actually get to drive it again:woot: and see if my sister has been maintaining it...:doah:

hijack off...

My BIL has a '97 Chev 2500 with the 6.5 TD. It has straight 3" single off the turbo, full length, but no muffler or cat. It sounds really good.
 
Vid is up...turn it up. :D

 
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Some pic's of the drivers side, well a good chunk of it anyways.

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Some of the welding, I used no compression clamps at all, everything is fully welded.

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Tailpipe exit location

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Overall there is more than enough stuff in the U-fit kit from Flowmaster to do full exhaust...aside from needing some straight lengths. I like the sound of it, it's got a really nice tone but isn't annoying when you're driving it.
 

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