CK5
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dually half ton?
- Thread starter REDCRO_REDNECK
- Start date
You were just posting for opinions and ideas, and I'm not replying to be a jerk, just my opinions since you asked if it's worthwhile.
You've got a short bed truck. Already "rare". (and cool if you ask me) You say it's in too good of shape to get rid of. I assume that means clean, not rusty, runs awesome, so on and so on.
If thats the case, why modify it and change all of the attributes that make it "nice"?
I've seen dually suburbans, and while different, it means you change the body, and least the rear fenders have to be modified, right? Now it's original, but it no longer looks like the truck you like now.
Then you are looking at towing a trailer and truck around with a less than optimal setup, the 700 and a 350. (plus the short wheel base of course) Nothing wrong with either of those components, I'm not looking for people to start posting up how the 700 isn't bad, nor the 350, just that they aren't "ideal", and putting another 6000lbs (probably minimum) on those two components not designed for that kind of load is probably going to turn a reliable truck into one that at the very least will probably need a tranny.
None of this is hard and fast, guaranteed, but time after time, it's proven that messing with something that is perfect, results in problems.
So no, I say its not worth it. I bet if you wait, you can find a beater 3/4 or 1 ton 2wd truck for the cost/time/effort of converting yours. I know that brings added issues like more maintenance, licensing, insurance, etc., but if you've got something thats good, keep it that way. I wish I saw a lot more real clean short bed trucks our vintage running around.
k20
3/4 ton status
You dont have to grind, buddy of mine has a 8 lug 10 bolt front, no grinding w/ 15" steel wheels, dont know the backspacing, tires are about even w/ the inside of the fender, may stick out half an inch. Must be a different backspacing than yours.
With a 60, unless you have the wheel spaced outside the caliper, to run 15 steels, you have to grind.
With a 60, unless you have the wheel spaced outside the caliper, to run 15 steels, you have to grind.
REDCRO_REDNECK
1/2 ton status
Dyeagar you have a point, (a good short bed is rare to find so why mess it up)paraphrase. and I think you have a good point which is why I might just go 3/4 ton and forget it.
I bought the truck ( or should I say WE) 2 days before I got married, It is a one owner truck with 180k miles. The previous owner took care of the truck so that when i bought it, I got a truck with a new GM crate motor, rebuilt tranny, new radiator etc. etc.
The point is I am torn between lifting it and putting 3/4 tons, or making a dually out of it.
dually = cool
3/4 = realistic, working
I have used a 1987 GMC short bed to haul hay (305 th350) @ 200k it is just now worn out. I have no doubt my 350 700r4 will hold for what I do.
If it breaks I will upgrade!
K20 you are the first person I have met not to grind a 3/4 ton axle
I bought the truck ( or should I say WE) 2 days before I got married, It is a one owner truck with 180k miles. The previous owner took care of the truck so that when i bought it, I got a truck with a new GM crate motor, rebuilt tranny, new radiator etc. etc.
The point is I am torn between lifting it and putting 3/4 tons, or making a dually out of it.
dually = cool
3/4 = realistic, working
I have used a 1987 GMC short bed to haul hay (305 th350) @ 200k it is just now worn out. I have no doubt my 350 700r4 will hold for what I do.
If it breaks I will upgrade!
K20 you are the first person I have met not to grind a 3/4 ton axle
k20
3/4 ton status
ill ask the guy tonite and post up if Im wrong but Im 95% sure he didnt have to grind.
REDCRO_REDNECK
1/2 ton status
has anyone used a 14 bolt semi float with 6 lug pattern in these trucks?
REDCRO_REDNECK said:
While I think it's a great upgrade if you are having 10-bolt failures, or are really attached to the 6-bolt wheelsyou have....
Brakes, wheelbase, and gearing would be the things I would improve on a for a tow-rig. Sounds like you're attached to the wheelbase.
A 14FF axle would be easy. You can even add the wider 1-ton brakes to a 3/4-ton 14FF. Use Ford 8-lug outers if you want dual-piston calipers up front.
I wouldn't bother with a dually axle - since your payload is only the tongue weight. (Makes sense for a slide-in camper or a 5'er/gooseneck because of the weight over the axle).
REDCRO_REDNECK
1/2 ton status
I have an 8 lug 14bsf and the brakes are much larger than my 10 bolt, are 6 and 8 lug 14bsf brakes different( meat wise) how much larger is a 14bff brakes from a sf?
I am not attached to my wheels but a penny saved is a penny earned
I am not attached to my wheels but a penny saved is a penny earned
REDCRO_REDNECK
1/2 ton status
good info
big_truxx
1/2 ton status
Just cuz I can, I am gonna add this to the discussion. Duallys haul a lot better!!!! And so y'all know I have hauled with everything from 1/2 ton srw to crew cab duallys 
And now own 2 crew cab duallys.... for hauling I wouldn't want anything less. Also nothing less than gooseneck. I also have hauled everything from tagalong to pintle to gooseneck to 5th wheel. big and small trailers. And I cannot ever give up my goose neck. Just my 2 cents worth for the afternoon 
And now own 2 crew cab duallys.... for hauling I wouldn't want anything less. Also nothing less than gooseneck. I also have hauled everything from tagalong to pintle to gooseneck to 5th wheel. big and small trailers. And I cannot ever give up my goose neck. Just my 2 cents worth for the afternoon Pookster
1/2 ton status
in terms of frame thickness- There was a prior post that others had chimed in on- I was asking the difference between a 2500 and a 3500- If you look at the capacity specs of the same year, there is a huge leap from a half to a 3/4. Then there is another smaller leap to a 1 ton.
That aside, if you do go dually, are you gonna carry a dually tire/rim and a SRW tire rim to fit the front? (you could use spacers I guess).
The brake comments- people are mixing up what is bigger. It is the same caliper and brake pad as on the half ton and 3/4 ton. Yes, it is the same contact patch area as well. However, the more important difference, is that the disc is bigger, giving better leverage, which provides more braking power. (Look at modern race cars, they all have rediculously large discs). A 1 ton has even more leverage. (and I think a bigger caliper).
In addition to that, I have not seen a dually tire in 15" rim sizes. The whole point of a dually is for better towing- You'd want a stiff E rated tire with a thin contact patch- Something like a 235x85. But they only come in 16" rim sizes. Your choices on dually tire sizes are limited! And dually 15" rims are even rarer. (I guess they could be a custom app)
That aside, if you do go dually, are you gonna carry a dually tire/rim and a SRW tire rim to fit the front? (you could use spacers I guess).
The brake comments- people are mixing up what is bigger. It is the same caliper and brake pad as on the half ton and 3/4 ton. Yes, it is the same contact patch area as well. However, the more important difference, is that the disc is bigger, giving better leverage, which provides more braking power. (Look at modern race cars, they all have rediculously large discs). A 1 ton has even more leverage. (and I think a bigger caliper).
In addition to that, I have not seen a dually tire in 15" rim sizes. The whole point of a dually is for better towing- You'd want a stiff E rated tire with a thin contact patch- Something like a 235x85. But they only come in 16" rim sizes. Your choices on dually tire sizes are limited! And dually 15" rims are even rarer. (I guess they could be a custom app)
REDCRO_REDNECK
1/2 ton status
If i go dually I would try to get a set of take off wheels with new tires on them, not 15" dually wheels.
I had to grind the calipers on my mud truck, I would not be too happy doing that to my tow rig.
I had to grind the calipers on my mud truck, I would not be too happy doing that to my tow rig.
beater_k20
Banned
Pookster said:
incorrect. the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks use an identical frame. only the 1 ton truck frame is different.
beater_k20
Banned
k20 said:
again, not correct info. a 15" rim will not fit a 3/4 ton D44 or 10 bolt without clearancing the caliper.
beater_k20 said:
I was digging through Dremu's brochures.... '77 has a training guide that lists the section modulus. K-10/20 LWB & C20 lists as 3.92, but the K5, K10 SWB, and C10 are 3.14.
Also, C/K30 in 131.5" wheelbase lists as 6.20, but the crewcabs come in at 7.33.
Pookster
1/2 ton status
beater_k20 said:
You might be right- Perhaps this only applies to the 88+ pickups?
beater_k20
Banned
u2slow, what did you say? maybe post it in a language we can understand this time. looks like you've got some latin and some jibberish mixed in there. 
i am correct. the 1973-80, and 1981-1987 GM frame rails for a C/K 10903 and a c/K 20903 (standard cab longbox pickup) carry the exact same part number for the bare frame rails. this very question came up on another board when i was working at the dealership.
Pookster said:
i am correct. the 1973-80, and 1981-1987 GM frame rails for a C/K 10903 and a c/K 20903 (standard cab longbox pickup) carry the exact same part number for the bare frame rails. this very question came up on another board when i was working at the dealership.
