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Durabak vs. Rust Bullet

kis2

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Hello folks,

Well, after years of reading, my blazer project finally has the green light! Despite all my reading, I could still use some advice. One piece of which is about rust.

The blazer has nearly zero rust, and I'd really like to keep it that way for as long as possible, despite snow and salt. The two main products I'm considering are Durabak and Rust Bullet.

My biggest fear with Durabak is it cracking somewhere I don't see all the time, and then rusts from underneath. But they say it has good sound dampening, and it comes in a variety of colors, so I could do the whole exterior.

Rust bullet is a little more expensive, and I'd still want paint after that. But I don't have to worry about anything really getting under it.

Thoughts? Maybe a combo of both?

Thanks!

(also, if anyone has a site where I can get a complete polyu bushing kit for an 84, please let me know)
 
paging ryoken, paging ryoken.

If you are starting with a good solid base, then you really need to look at the rust prone issues, many of them are because the water does not drain properly. Not because of paint issues.

A well prepared surface with a good paint ( not a rattle can) will provide excellent rust protection.

Rust bullet is designed to adhere to and stop rust for the most part but still works just like a paint, if you are not starting with rust its better to just stick to high quality automotive paint.

Durabak I would not use for rust protection, as it can get scraped up and trap water much more than any paint would.

I would on the other hand use something like lizard skin for an undercoating or a higher quality bedliner type of material
 
I am convinced moving to Arizona is the only way to keep a Chevy from rusting...every miracle paint,coating,and applications of drain oil to my trucks only delayed the inevitable slightly...:( ...anywhere they use salt your wasting money and time trying to stop rust,unless you garage the vehicle until spring and never drive it in snow...here even the moisture from the climate we have rots trucks out pretty quickly..
 
thank you for the responses

"many of them are because the water does not drain properly. Not because of paint issues. "

I'm going to do a blazer analysis on my current 'rusty from years of snow/salt' blazer, and then extra protect those areas on the no-rust blazer, good advice. Isn't durabak a 'higher quality bedliner material'?

Just so you all know, I won't be rock crawling or anything, just a few desert and forest trails whilst daily driving.

thanks again!
 
guess i'll be the solicitor for the evening and tell ya the best $25 you could spend on your rig would be a membership here....

as the boys know, I can post for days on the subject.. not sure what they linked up there, but i can answer your questions on any bodywork coatings, procedures, tools, etc...

there are many variables.. how extensive your going, labor and coin-wise... for raw steel, a standard autobody coating system of zinc, urethane primer, urethane topcoat is about as tough as it gets.. even tougher with bedliner on top of that...

but that can be expensive and time consuming... encapsilator's like RB and POR15 are generally used over rust.. not ideal, but can be effective in the right circumstance... IT MUST BE TOPCOATED...

anyway, do some searches, read some of my ramblings and welcome to the forum.... :D
 
Check out innerpanel coatings by eastwood or waxoil. Wax oil also has underbody hardwax for exterior. both stick to the bodypanels and help prevent moisture, condensation.
 
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