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Duramax Suburban - IFS Rebuild

Cili said:
Stock height, stock wheels with 285s. No rubbing issues at all

View attachment 198896
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jekquistk5 said:
285's on my dmax as well. Why do I run it because I don't want to get stuck on some soft ground while pulling a trailer.

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Looks like we have triplets with 285’s. I’ve been running 285’s on PYO wheels since the truck was a few weeks old. First set were BFG’s, then a set of General Grabber (BFG look alikes) and the current DuraTracs. I like the DuraTracs the best. Can’t say they don’t rub though…. They rub the plastic inner fender at full lock. No biggie.

285’s are a great size tire for GMT800 rigs

Mine only has 68K on it and somewhat rare with an 8.1L, 6 speed manual, manual tcase with bucket seats…..and ZERO RUST :laugh:
15574487728_f0602f1000_z.jpg
 
Larry said:
Looks like we have triplets with 285’s. I’ve been running 285’s on PYO wheels since the truck was a few weeks old. First set were BFG’s, then a set of General Grabber (BFG look alikes) and the current DuraTracs. I like the DuraTracs the best. Can’t say they don’t rub though…. They rub the plastic inner fender at full lock. No biggie.

285’s are a great size tire for GMT800 rigs

Mine only has 68K on it and somewhat rare with an 8.1L, 6 speed manual, manual tcase with bucket seats…..and ZERO RUST :laugh:
15574487728_f0602f1000_z.jpg
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Are you SUUUUUUUUUURRRRRRRRRE you don't wanna sell it? :wink1:
 
So, been finally working out some of the kinks on this beast.

Latest issue was dead batteries. The batteries in it were older, and weak. One finally bit the dust, and i think it killed it's partner.

So, it sounds like there are 2 dual battery setups from the factory. One wired in straight parallel, one with an isolator.

I've got the 12voltguy setup in my 91, and have LOVED it.

As much as the dmax wants 2 for starting, it will start on one good battery. The goal is to have a setup that is isolated when the truck is off, so if I have some sort of drain, it will only kill one.

Who knows about the parts for the isolated factory setup? Is it worth trying to do with with factory parts, or should i just get a 12voltguy setup again?

Not confident i don't have some sort of draw, so i disconnected one battery all weekend at night to make sure it would start. Will know in a day or 2 if it is still killing itself.

Thanks!
 
Testing for the draw is simple, i agree. I can get that part handled.

The question is how do i best isolate the batteries when the truck is off? Do i go about the aftermarket approach, or is the factory setup worth using?
 
dhcomp said:
Testing for the draw is simple, i agree. I can get that part handled.

The question is how do i best isolate the batteries when the truck is off? Do i go about the aftermarket approach, or is the factory setup worth using?
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I'm not aware that there was a factory isolator, wonder if it's part of a snowplow package or something like that. In any event I firmly believe the newer vehicles keep enough things running in the back ground even with Key off that if your not driving it weekly it needs a Battery tender. I thought that my truck was going to start sitting a lot last year so I installed a Battery tender in it and when I was leaving it sitting for a week at a time I loved it. Now I'm back to daily driving so a tender isn't exactly needed.

If your going to isolate the batteries and there is a factory option I would look into that as it's going to be pretty integrated and be good stuff.
 
I wouldn't isolate them at all personally. How long does this usually sit? If you have no draws it should be able to sit for months and still start. When it gets cold you will undoubtedly want both batteries cranking that over
 
The way they are isolated in my 91, they are separate when the key is off, and combined when the key is on. This allows full voltage for starting.

Eventually, this truck will get a large stereo setup, and i'll want to run it isolated on one battery so i can start with the other.

I'll look into the factory setup further before ordering the 12 volt guy one.
 
dhcomp said:
The way they are isolated in my 91, they are separate when the key is off, and combined when the key is on. This allows full voltage for starting.

Eventually, this truck will get a large stereo setup, and i'll want to run it isolated on one battery so i can start with the other.

I'll look into the factory setup further before ordering the 12 volt guy one.
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The Duramax trucks never had isolated batteries. The gassers with optional dual batteries were isolated, they had a solenoid that connected them together when the key is turned on similar to the 12 volt guy setup.

When buying batteries try to step up to an AGM battery (no Optimas) they sure last a whole lot longer in a suburban, won't make near the mess, and will cycle better when you get your stereo in. If you do some shopping you'll probably only spend about 40 dollars more than a decent quality conventional battery.
 
image.jpeg A friend at work upgraded his wheels, so I bought a set of the stock 17's. Wider than the stock ones I have, and still look stock.

Doing my best to hold off on tires until mine are worn out, which could be a while.
 
I have those wheels on my 1988 V10 Suburban. I really like them.

Martin
 
dhcomp said:
Been working through some little things. It had a good pac aux setup on the stock radio, just needed the right cable for standard aux input.

New fog lights, washed it, and put on a new trailer plug. Had been getting current bleed from brakes to turn, and a new trailer plug and rear light jbox fixed it.

I tow a lot of different flat 5 wire trailers, as most ski boats still use flat 5. So, this badass plug has both round 7 and flat 5, fit the stock bracket, and I get to throw away all my adapters!!!View attachment 190172View attachment 190174
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Where did you get this plug? I need one!!!

BTW, I know I've been ghosting on here for the past year or so but damn how did I miss this build!!!
 
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