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Dynamat Xteme

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Z3PR

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Got a sheet of Dynamat Xtreme for the trunk lid. I've never installed it myself before. Any prep work that I need too do prior too installing ???
 
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Z3PR said:
Got a sheet of Dynamat Xtreme for the trunk lid. I've never installed it myself before. Any prep work that I need too do prior too installing ???
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Clean the contacting surface as thoroughly as possible with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol available in any drug store and many convenience stores). This will clean the surface and leave no residue. The cleaner the contacting surface is, the better the stuff will stick. The better it sticks, the better it works.

When applying the mat, use a wooden roller over every square inch, being sure to remove any air holes with a knife/razor. Also remember, the aluminum foil layer will not stretch, so more care is needed when precutting and fitting pieces than was necessary with the older asphalt based stuff (if you've ever used it).

You may also want to consider using some spray expanding foam between the body panels of the trunk lid, as they are notorious for rattling against each other. If you use the stuff that expands and dries rigid, it will keep the panels from rubbing and creating noise. If you chose to do this, take care to always leave a space for excess foam to escape when curing.

Let us know how it works out. :)
 
chevyin said:
Clean the contacting surface as thoroughly as possible with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol available in any drug store and many convenience stores). This will clean the surface and leave no residue. The cleaner the contacting surface is, the better the stuff will stick. The better it sticks, the better it works.

When applying the mat, use a wooden roller over every square inch, being sure to remove any air holes with a knife/razor. Also remember, the aluminum foil layer will not stretch, so more care is needed when precutting and fitting pieces than was necessary with the older asphalt based stuff (if you've ever used it).

You may also want to consider using some spray expanding foam between the body panels of the trunk lid, as they are notorious for rattling against each other. If you use the stuff that expands and dries rigid, it will keep the panels from rubbing and creating noise. If you chose to do this, take care to always leave a space for excess foam to escape when curing.

Let us know how it works out. :)
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I've used expantion foam before. I'll probley stop at the hardware store for some expantion foam.
 
Stopped at the hardware store this morning, bought some expantion foam and a wooden rollor. Got home, masked off the trunk lid with duct tape, and installed the expantion foam. Gave it a few hours, took off the tape, cleaned it up with rubbing acohol, and installed the Dynamat Xtreme.
Dynamat_Xtreme_1.JPG
Dynamat_Xtreme_2.JPG
 
That stopped the trunk lid from rattling, but there is still some rattles comming from the plastic body panel between the tail lights. I don't hear any rattling inside the car now, but I still want too kill all rattles. Might bite the bullet and take it to the stereo shop in a couple of weeks.
 
Take the panel off and put some foam tape around the mounting points/studs. You have checked the licence plate, right?
 
What Leper said. All the local shop would do is the same thing, find out where the panels are rubbing together and place foam tape (or similar) between them to stop it. And yes, liscense plates are notortious for rattling.
 
I know what's ratteling. It's the plastic panel between the taillights, where the plate is. I think I'll buy some more Dynamat Xtreme and try that.
Alero_rear_view.JPG
 
What do you think of pulling that plastic panel and lineing it with silicon ??? Think that would stop it from vibrating ??
 
Silicone would work, although Id prefer something that doesn't have a curing time. Anything soft and non-metallic to place between the panels where they vibrate together, to remove the metal-on-metal (or plastic) contact.

If this will cure your rattling problem is anyone's guess, besides your view/take on it. If those panels rattling together really is the main source of your noise, then yes placing a soft material between them in stategic areas will most definitely take care of it. But if there is a misdiagnosis, or partial diagnosis of the noise problems, it may help little, or none. No offense meant, if you say that's the problem, Im sure it is, and the problem will be solved. My point simply is many times diagnosing the noise problems are the hardest part of deadening a vehicle.

Keep us posted. :)
 
chevyin said:
Silicone would work, although Id prefer something that doesn't have a curing time. Anything soft and non-metallic to place between the panels where they vibrate together, to remove the metal-on-metal (or plastic) contact.

If this will cure your rattling problem is anyone's guess, besides your view/take on it. If those panels rattling together really is the main source of your noise, then yes placing a soft material between them in stategic areas will most definitely take care of it. But if there is a misdiagnosis, or partial diagnosis of the noise problems, it may help little, or none. No offense meant, if you say that's the problem, Im sure it is, and the problem will be solved. My point simply is many times diagnosing the noise problems are the hardest part of deadening a vehicle.

Keep us posted. :)
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Well, after installing the Dynamat, I started the car, put in a CD with hard hitting bass, cranked it up, and stood behind the car. I could see that panel vibrating. I put my hand on it, with just alittle pressure, the ratteling stopped. So I'm pretty sure that's what's making all the unpleasent noise, LOL. I don't hear it inside the car, but I'd still like too kill the rattels outside the car.
 
In this picture, were the name "ALERO" is, I pressed my thumb against it and the ratteling stopped.
Alero_rear_view.JPG
The licence plate rattels alittle, but nothing compaired too the plastic body panel it's attached to.
 
If you have any "Test CDs" it can really help to quickly find rattles and resonances.

I have one of the older ones from Autosound 2000 (Richard Clark & David Navone) that has LOW frequencies (Track 10 is 10Hz, Track 11 is 11Hz....Track 99 is 99Hz)

It can be really educational to punch up the track numbers and hear the begnnings of a resonance starting....then a couple of Hz (tracks) higher that panel is in "full on natural resonance" mode!!!

A test CD like that is sometimes simpler than trying to use a music CD, where the bass transitions are too quick to get certain vibrations started (and continuing long enough to find them). Plus, once you hear a noise....it's easy to just hit the track repeat button and take all the time you need to find the problem.

Also, the test CDs tend to find the problems at lower output volumes...it DOES get a little tiring to have music blasting in your ears for an hour or two as you try to deaden all your panels!!
 
Like Greg72 said, a test CD works best. But, I prefer to use sine sweeps when looking for rattles, as it covers all the frequencies in a short time period. Its also interesting to hear how the entire car's resonate freq lowers as you do more and more to deaden the vehicle.
 
chevyin said:
Like Greg72 said, a test CD works best. But, I prefer to use sine sweeps when looking for rattles, as it covers all the frequencies in a short time period. Its also interesting to hear how the entire car's resonate freq lowers as you do more and more to deaden the vehicle.
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If you want to compare "propeller hats" :D ....I also went out a while ago and bought a freqency generator, so that I can play any sinusoidal waveforms from 0 Hz - 20,000Hz with the twist of just a few dials.

....and an oscilloscope for setting MOLs on decks/crossovers/amps. :saweet:
 
You guys are alittle advanced for me. I just use a CD with alot of bass. I picked up another sheet of Dynamat Xtreme. Now I just need too scroung up a few tools and line the inside of that panel. I also plan on useing the rest on the under side of the rear deck, I noticed just a slight rattel from it earlier today.
 
Greg72 said:
If you want to compare "propeller hats" :D ....I also went out a while ago and bought a freqency generator, so that I can play any sinusoidal waveforms from 0 Hz - 20,000Hz with the twist of just a few dials.

....and an oscilloscope for setting MOLs on decks/crossovers/amps. :saweet:
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Niceness. :) I have an RTA that does sweeps, I need an o-scope though. Been looking into the hand-held digital ones.
 
Have you ever played with RTA software that runs off a laptop?

I'd always wondered if they are any good. It probably depends a lot on the quality of microphone and sound card used, but since laptops are SO cheap these days it might be an easier way to get RTA capabilities without buying yet another piece of standalone equipment.... :thinking:



Paul, Sorry for hijacking your thread! :blush:
 
Greg72 said:
Have you ever played with RTA software that runs off a laptop?

I'd always wondered if they are any good. It probably depends a lot on the quality of microphone and sound card used, but since laptops are SO cheap these days it might be an easier way to get RTA capabilities without buying yet another piece of standalone equipment.... :thinking:



Paul, Sorry for hijacking your thread! :blush:
Click to expand...
No problem, this is a good hijack. It's intresting even if it's beyond me.
 
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