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E-locker for 10.5 14 bolt? Tired of my Detroit Locker

Larry

Largarto Rancher & Tumbleweed Farmer
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Does anybody know of any kind of electric locker available for a 10.5 14 bolt full-floater? I’ve been running a Detroit locker for the past 6 years and while it an awesome locker it does make for highway driving rather challenging. This ole truck gets driven all over the southwestern desert states and I’m tired of the rear steering with a fulltime locker when on the throttle then darting the other direction when letting off the throttle to upshift. Not to mention, the rear tire wear is getting old and quite expensive too. The high torque 8.1L and weight of the camper really exaggerate the idiosyncrasies of a Detroit locker.

I don’t have enough room to mount an air compressor so ARB is out of the question. I would rather have an electric locker if possible or something selectable without needing air. I wonder if the rear electric locker from a Dodge Power Wagon would fit? That axle is basically the same ole GM 10.5 14 bolt with a different design center section housing shape. Anybody try one of those in a GM axle yet?

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just a fyi the small comp for arb is TINY :whistle:

3" body lift blocks for size comp to unit.

otherwise i havent heard anything on electric for the 14ff or if dodge stuff will swap yet.

but here is a arb just incase you wana see how big it is in the hole. :eek1:

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Hey, we have the same Coca-Cola cups! Yeah, that does look like a pretty small compressor when laid next to the body lift blocks. My buddy is running front D44 and rear D60 ARB’s in a Dodge Ram Charger. ARB’s are without a doubt the best of the best. He is running a much larger compressor to fill a remote tank for airing tires, running tools, working the lockers, etc. I am running out of room on this truck to mount stuff, even little stuff is getting hard to find a place for these days. Between the 8.1L goodies, batteries and the Hickey sidewinder relay pack there isn’t much room under the hood. Every corner of the camper is taken up as well. I love ARB’s but would rather have something a bit simpler. Looks like I am stuck with a Detroit locker for a while longer.
 
ya coke cups direct from huge box from friend at coke plant that didnt need them for contract anymore. i got 5 and the rest of the guys at shop each got 5 or so.
 
There has to be some room on the frame rails somewhere to mount the compressor.
 
Did you do a restore on the sidewinder. Worked on a couple of those.

Like has been said the new style ARB compressors are tiny.

I think that is the way I would go.

Or the yukon zip which is not yet out for a 14 bolt but a little bird told me it will be.

You know I think you are stuck with an ARB, not a bad option to be stuck with
 
Just to throw this out there, the AAM 10.5 may be similar, but in the power wagon it is fitted with the 11.5 shafts. So it has a smaller center section, but bigger shafts.
 
Plyer2k,

Great info! I figured there had to be a reason why nobody has used a PW elocker yet. I have a 2001 8.1L Silverado with an 11.5 rear axle. I might have to pull a shaft to see how much different it is from an older 10.5. Who knows, the Dodge AAM 11.5 shafts might even be different from a GM 11.5. At the end of the day, it looks like I might have to settle on an ARB. Nothing wrong with that, I just don’t want to fiddle around with air.

Several have asked about the Detroit once I pull it out…Whenever I find a replacement for the Detroit in the K10, the Detroit will be going into this Suburban
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After I put the axles from this truck in the Suburban. My dad bought this truck new back in 1978 but it is too far gone to try to save. About the only thing on it worth the damn are the 4:10 D44 and 10.5 FF. Perfect axles to throw under the Suburban when it goes under the knife later this summer.
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So another suggestion is swapping in a 9.5 14 bolt, its a semifloat not a full float is plenty strong for your blazer, would pick up a touch of ground clearance and you can use the factory H2 electronic locker.

Those axles can be had pretty cheap and i have seen the lockers for 400 or less used very easy to wire in.

Just a suggestion i know some guys who have beat the SF 14 bolts pretty good with very little problem, just another possible way to go
 
That yellow and white K20 would be considered MINT around here.
Martin

Up here too. Do a trip to the rust belt and you'll get a new appreciation for that yellow and white K20's condition! Don't shred it - let someone save it.
Back to regular programming.......
 
So another suggestion is swapping in a 9.5 14 bolt, its a semifloat not a full float is plenty strong for your blazer, would pick up a touch of ground clearance and you can use the factory H2 electronic locker.

Those axles can be had pretty cheap and i have seen the lockers for 400 or less used very easy to wire in.

Just a suggestion i know some guys who have beat the SF 14 bolts pretty good with very little problem, just another possible way to go


Ah, no. Surely not swapping a semi floater in a truck that weights 8000 lbs running a high power 8.1L. Plus this is not a Blazer.

Trust me, the wrecker is gone. The frame is broke on the right side near the upper shock mounting hole and there is another crack by the steering gear. The 427 is seized, needed a clutch before the engine died and the doors and bedsides are full of bondo from years of hired help bashing it into things. I’m saving the wrecker unit and drivetrain but scrapping the body/chassis. I’m not looking forward to junking the truck I learned to drive in either but its spirit will live on in the Suburban.
 
Ah, no. Surely not swapping a semi floater in a truck that weights 8000 lbs running a high power 8.1L. Plus this is not a Blazer.


Just another thought they are alot stronger than most people think. The perceived weakness being they are a semifloat axle and the smaller ring gear, but even in a high HP rig that is heavy they hold up very very well.

I would certainly put them ahead of a full float non HD 60 rear.

Like I said just another suggestion

Sorry about calling it a blazer, people call mine a blazer too but its actually a pickup ( not that mine looks like a pickup any more)
 
What about a different lunchbox locker?

Something like a Powertrax No-Slip? I had one in my '94 XJ and it had decent highway manners. The onl time I could hear/feel it clicking was in itght parking lot type manuevers.
 
It hasn't been mentioned (don't say it three times!) but is there a reason the gov-lock won't work for your application?

I know next to nothing about the 14FF version, but other than not being locked up solid (so on/off depending on conditions) would it not work for your application?
 
i have said it a lot before i do love my 14ff rear with gov lock cause i know its there and how to use it with out blowing it up.

for dd / play/snow i love it 100% i even swaped out a detroit for a gov loc cause anytime i had to go some place in the snow of 2 or more inches i had to be in 4x4 or the rear wanted to come around and say high to the front.

but for all out yes detroit / spool / arb type units are prob best.
 
Something like a Powertrax No-Slip? I had one in my '94 XJ and it had decent highway manners. The onl time I could hear/feel it clicking was in itght parking lot type manuevers.

I was going to suggest this too. I like mine...it only locks up on asphalt between quarter and half throttle while turning. Light throttle, no problem. If you have an open carrier it's an easy install. It's not a limited slip either...it uses a spring loaded mechanical (2 metal plates) engagement.
 
What aabout an ox? I haven't checked if they have them for 14bots but I thought they did.

I was gonna go with an elocker for my 8.8 but decided to spend a little more and go with an ox after hearing elocker horror stories.
 

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