Easiest way to replace rear spring bushings?

[Mastiff]

Looking for some ideas for the easiest way to do this job. I have some greasable bushings I need to install just in the front of the rear springs. Whenever I do this job it turns into a huge pain. Here's my bad technique:

1) Try unsuccessfully to jack the body to the point where the spring is not under load.

2) After getting close but not right, unscrew the bolt from the spring eye and let it pop into whatever position it actually wants to be in.

3) Replace the bushing.

4) Try to jack the body into line with the spring but it doesn't line up. Foolishly try to move the axle forward or back

5) Cuss and complain while prying on the spring until it lines up close enough that a punch can be forced in.

6) Cuss and pry some more until the bolt is close enough to be able to be BFH'd or screwed in.

7) Be certain there must be an easier way.

The one easier way I can think of is to fully remove the spring from the axle, is that the ticket?

 

[bot0611]

Just take the whole leaf set out and hammer the old bushings and and hammer the new ones in...no other way is the easiest id say.

You could lower the front end of the rear leafs but it will still be a PITA to take the bushings off

 

[ZukiJohn]

Use a TORCH on the old bushings..... grease new ones..install?????

 

[Mastiff]

I'm not too worried about the bushings themselves since they're poly and not ancient. I'm talking about getting the spring disconnected and reconnected without major aggravation.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Remove the entire spring from the vehicle. It WILL be much easier and will probably take you less time than how you've been doing it.

 

[kevin400ex]

just unbolt the leafs one end at a time if you dont want to remove them completely. use a drill and drill out the rubber to get the old bushings out (torch method works good too) once you get the center part of the old bushing out you can knock the outer sleeve out with a chisel punch etc easier with the rubber gone.

 

[ZukiJohn]

What type of "jack" are you using?? Not understanding the problem, unless you can't lift vehicle "high" enough...to remove leaf springs....

Use 2 handymans/highlifts and make sure you use jackstands on the frame...Be safe!!

 

[Mastiff]

I must be doing it all wrong if nobody can even understand why it's hard... I don't want to or need to remove the leaf springs, I just want to replace the bushings on one end. I don't know a non-painful way to separate one end of the leaf springs from the frame (with the spring still attached to the axle). If everyone always undoes the U-bolts and completely unloads the spring, then that's one possible answer. I've tried to avoid the extra work, in which case the spring eye finds its own happy place that doesn't align with the frame no matter how you jack things up or down. For me, that hard part is getting everything realigned so the spring can be reconnected to the frame.

I started the job tonight and completely removed the U-bolts. I'll see if that works out easier. Undoing the 15 year old U-bolts was not easy but they eventually came off. I'll need to buy all new nuts at least, if not all new U-bolts too.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I must be doing it all wrong if nobody can even understand why it's hard... I don't want to or need to remove the leaf springs, I just want to replace the bushings on one end. I don't know a non-painful way to separate one end of the leaf springs from the frame (with the spring still attached to the axle). If everyone always undoes the U-bolts and completely unloads the spring, then that's one possible answer. I've tried to avoid the extra work, in which case the spring eye finds its own happy place that doesn't align with the frame no matter how you jack things up or down. For me, that hard part is getting everything realigned so the spring can be reconnected to the frame.

I started the job tonight and completely removed the U-bolts. I'll see if that works out easier. Undoing the 15 year old U-bolts was not easy but they eventually came off. I'll need to buy all new nuts at least, if not all new U-bolts too.

I've already said it will be less work and quicker if you just removed the whole leaf spring rather than fighting with it the way you have been.

I would replace the U-bolts if they are that old. Cheap insurance over having a U-bolt break and a disasterous misfortune to follow.

 

[ZukiJohn]

That's why I said to use "2" jacks....lift both side's at the same time...leave spring's/ubolts attached to axle remove what ever bushing's need replaced...

Jack up vehicle high enough to get the weight off and place jack stands under the frame... use floor jack on axle to move up/down as needed loosen and remove leaf spring bolt's....

 

[ZukiJohn]

If u-bolt's are that old and rusted--------REPLACE W NEW !!!!1

 

[Mastiff]

Thanks for the input guys, I'll power through.

So far I'm not seeing much advantage to the poly over rubber. These old poly bushings looked just like old rubber; cracked on the outside and sticky/annoying on the inside. The metal sleeve on the inside of the bushing was rusted badly on its outside where it contacts the bushing. A decent amount of rust is present on the inside of the spring mount on the truck too, even though the truck itself is in great shape and nearly rust free.

I'm putting in the ORD greasables, so hopefully this won't happen again for a while (creaky noisy bushings). The Rancho leaf pack may be creaking too, I'll find out how much noise is left after the bushings are fixed up.

 

[andyblack]

The ORD greasable bushings will make a world of difference. They're quieter, ride better and are easier to take out. What I do if I need to mess with the springs is use a floor jack under the diff housing to jack the axle up enough to remove the wheels and then take them off. Next I use several wooden blocks and a bottle jack under the frame rail in front the forward spring mount (all this is for the rear axle) to raise one side of the body/frame enough to unload the suspension when the axle is lowered. Then I lower the axle with the floor jack that's already under the diff housing and the spring will usually go low enough to get to the bushing. If not I use the bottle jack on the blocks to raise the body/frame some more. Sometimes I may have to go to the back of the spring and undo the shackle from its mount also. Using this method, I can usually get to one spring eye bushing at the time. Now if the bushings and/or sleeves just don't want to come out, then you need to do like 4x4 High says and completely remove the spring from the axle. Then you can get down and dirty with it. I like to avoid doing that because then I have to buy new u-bolts. They shouldn't be reused since they are stretched out after the first time they're torqued and will loosen up if they're reused.

Sounds like you have it under control now. Good luck. Greasable poly bushings are better than rubber though. They don't allow the springs to twist the shackles as readily and they last longer and are much easier to remove most of the time.

 

[Mastiff]

Where do you get U-bolts, besides ordering them on-line and waiting a week? Can some shops just make them up for you?

 

[andyblack]

There should be some shops in your area that can make them cheap. Go to your local NAPA store. Sometimes they can make them for you or tell you who can. They may even stock some common sizes. They should cost more than $10, I don't think.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

Most 4x4 shops or suspension shops can make them while you wait. I got mine from Click Here - Currie

They got here in a couple of days and were cheaper than local places.

 

[ZukiJohn]

Try some local suspension shops....or call Ballistic they should be able to point you in the right direction, if they don't have what you need.

 

[Mastiff]

Most 4x4 shops or suspension shops can make them while you wait. I got mine from Click Here - Currie

They got here in a couple of days and were cheaper than local places.

Hmm. Mine are currently 5/8", not 1/2". You have the 10-bolt rear end?

 

[Mastiff]

I think I may know why this job is always so hard for me. I have Rancho 4" lift springs in the rear and it look like they don't reach from shackle to frame in an uncompressed state. Is this normal? I had to get the shackle all the way forward and it was still 1/4" from reaching, so I had to pry the rest of the way to get the bolt in.

Also, to get the shackle as flat as I did, I had to remove the nut on the top part of the shackle. If I didn't, it interfered at the frame (shackle mount) and prevented it from dropping as low. Is that normal?

 

[bot0611]

Did you lower thr front section of the springs only?