What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Eastwood 2k Aero-Spray paint?

Cntymnty77

Cntymnty77

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 6, 2016
Posts
697
Reaction score
560
Location
Missouri
I know there are a ton of "rattle can" threads in here and I swear I've been through all of them. I think I've decided to go the rattle can route once I get to that stage in the resto but there are a ton of choices. I'd like it to look as good as possible with out spending a couple grand, because I don't have it. I noticed this two stage kit on Eastwood that looks fairly simple and easy to use. It looks like the only down side is the price.

im just curious if anyone on here has had any expierence with this stuff?

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/2k-aero-spray-paints.html
 
Holy cow that stuff is expensive!

For the price of enough of those cans to do a k5 you would be able to buy a good compressor, decent HVLP and paint. SPI and Kirker both sell paint "kits" that include primer, paint, reducer and some accessories for well under $300.

If you're uncertain about spraying with a HVLP, it's much easier to get a good finish with than rattle cans. You can get some cheap practice getting used to the process with a $14 harbor freight model spraying random things with Rustoleum (thinned with xylene or acetone).
 
CK10 said:
Holy cow that stuff is expensive!

For the price of enough of those cans to do a k5 you would be able to buy a good compressor, decent HVLP and paint. SPI and Kirker both sell paint "kits" that include primer, paint, reducer and some accessories for well under $300.

If you're uncertain about spraying with a HVLP, it's much easier to get a good finish with than rattle cans. You can get some cheap practice getting used to the process with a $14 harbor freight model spraying random things with Rustoleum (thinned with xylene or acetone).
Click to expand...
I've heard a lot of people talk about the harbor freight guns and that they actually aren't bad. I may end up going that route.
 
I have one, I like it and use it regularly. I learned to spray and would never go back to anything else for putting down a lot of paint with a decent finish. I started by repainting equipment on the family farm, as I got better I did a few cars and motorcycles, custom bumpers ect with various types and brands of paint.

I'm no pro. I paint like I weld, which means that like using a grinder to dress the occasional weld booger or having to re-do something happens. I have to spend a little extra time after I'm done spraying "cleaning up" the job. I'm prone to get a run or two especially in the clear coat on compound curved areas but it's nothing wet sanding and a buffer don't take care of.

I spray bombed my current hood bc of badly peeling paint causing surface rust. It's temporary till I'm moved to my new place cross country and tear the truck down to paint it, but it took 4 cans each of primer and color to do just the hood (and it's far too thin to be of lasting quality) just to give you an idea of how many spray cans you would need.
 
CK10 said:
I have one, I like it and use it regularly. I learned to spray and would never go back to anything else for putting down a lot of paint with a decent finish. I started by repainting equipment on the family farm, as I got better I did a few cars and motorcycles, custom bumpers ect with various types and brands of paint.

I'm no pro. I paint like I weld, which means that like using a grinder to dress the occasional weld booger or having to re-do something happens. I have to spend a little extra time after I'm done spraying "cleaning up" the job. I'm prone to get a run or two especially in the clear coat on compound curved areas but it's nothing wet sanding and a buffer don't take care of.

I spray bombed my current hood bc of badly peeling paint causing surface rust. It's temporary till I'm moved to my new place cross country and tear the truck down to paint it, but it took 4 cans each of primer and color to do just the hood (and it's far too thin to be of lasting quality) just to give you an idea of how many spray cans you would need.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help! I think you sold me. I'll probably start looking around for guns now! Haha!
 
Where are you at in Missouri? I grew up in a little town just north of St. Louis.
 
CK10 said:
Where are you at in Missouri? I grew up in a little town just north of St. Louis.
Click to expand...
I'm right outside KC now. I'm originally from a small town in SW Mo. What town around St. Louis? My moms side is from the St. Louis area.
 
Born in St. Charles, grew up in Winfield went to college at SMS in Springfield.
 
CK10 said:
Born in St. Charles, grew up in Winfield went to college at SMS in Springfield.
Click to expand...
Small world! I still have family in St Charles and my mom went to SMS and I'm from just south of springfield.
 
wazzabie said:
Does the 2k require a special charcoal mask?
Click to expand...

Yes, the 2k paints contain isocyanates which are very bad for your respiratory system.

I'm not a safety nazi by any means but as I've gotten older I've started to wear my respirator with even non-isocyanate paints like spray paint, it's more comfortable to paint if I don't have to smell that crap and my lungs have been through enough.
 
CK10 said:
Yes, the 2k paints contain isocyanates which are very bad for your respiratory system.

I'm not a safety nazi by any means but as I've gotten older I've started to wear my respirator with even non-isocyanate paints like spray paint, it's more comfortable to paint if I don't have to smell that crap and my lungs have been through enough.
Click to expand...
But it smells so good! Haha!! :saweet:
 
A spray can paint job will never beat a proper gun and proper paint, even single stage.

One can get a pretty close to factory quality or better paint job by doing all the tedious sanding and body work themselves. Hell you can get a paint and body guy to simply spray your ride if you do all the body work and mask it. Might ask around. Anyone who knows will tell you the prep is the expense.

Spray paint does not seal like automotive paint. It just doesn't. It's not meant to, that's why they have base/clear paint jobs. Hell even a roller paint job with reduced tractor paint is better
 
My experience with Eastwood products is that like anyone who is in the business of selling their name, the hock the cheapest stuff they can afford to buy with their brand name on it and then they mark it up for profit. That stuff is usually made by the same manufacturer that you buy at Napa, Autozone, or whoever. Not saying it isn't good, just saying they need a way to pay for their high dollar spokesperson that is putting out video's on youtube and stuff. That being said some of the best finishes I have gotten on stuff has been from a can of Krylon or Rustoleum, and I'd even dare you to try and roll on some rustoleum if you want to test the line of extreme diy paint jobs.... (Yeah, I said roll on) You'd be surprised what you can do if you keep the coat light and let it air dry a little extra time between coats.

You can even roll on the primer.....

Sounds silly but it just depends on how much sanding you are willing to do... After all they say preperation is the key to a decent paint job.

Mine I won't care so much about surface prep unless there is paint peeling, a hole or dent because I am literally just going to pour on and spread/roll a satin silver paint on and just about anything that is chrome is getting blacked out. I'm probably going to get a second set of door handles (and doors hopefully) and have the rear window handle powder coated since that is rated as one of the more durable finishes and door handles take a ton of abuse, and they'll be black as well. Wheels are going to be black steel wheels, and then I am going to eventually build my own front and rear bumper, with the plan for it to be black as well. For the front grill I already have a black insert made, and then for the surround stuff I am going to just rub down with some red scotch brite and then spray on the matte black Krylon!!

Going to leave the top matte black.

http://www.cartalk.com/blogs/craig-fitzgerald/how-paint-car-bucket-rust-oleum-and-roller
 
That Eastwood stuff looks like a real 2-part paint, so it might work. If so, it could be great for small repair areas underbody and such because you don't have to mix the paint, clean the gun, clean the tools, etc. Just throw the can away. But for a whole car, I can't see any value. I'm sure it sprays better than $2 Krylon, but it's probably worse than the cheapest gun.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom