What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Eaton Rear Axle Info?

OrangeCrushK10

OrangeCrushK10

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 25, 2003
Posts
1,425
Reaction score
0
Location
Square State + Suspension Item
So, give me some info/comments on these baby's! I saw one almost fully diconnected at the pull'n'save so I grabbed it. While I wanted a 14-bolt, any 1 ton would work and I didn't have to do but 10 minutes of labor to get it out.

So, I've figured out it's an Eaton out of a '72 pickup.

Most Eaton's have lockers I've read, which is awesome.

How do I tell what gear ratio it has and if it has a locker in it?

What else about these rear ends? Gimme Info Guru's! /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
 
Well you are going to change the fluid and do the brakes and such , right ? Well just pull the axles and the third member and find out before you refill it and use it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I am searching the net since I am curious , and on fourwheeler.com they say they came with 4.57's or 5.14's for gears , and they mostly came with Detroits which are discontinued now from Tractech /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Where did you get it?

Here is what I have learned of the Eaton:
The Eaton came in two versions, a drw and srw, the drw being a couple of inches narrower. Gear ratios are limited to 4.10, 4.56, and 5.13 (mostly in DRW versions). 14BFF Detroit lockers fit into the carrier and 14BFF axels will work in the Eaton housing. The disk brake brackets will work, also.

Let me know if you decide not to use. I will probably buy it from you. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
they interchage with 14Bolt stuff? will 14b stuff work with Eaton? I have one but I have no use for it being that im using a 14Bolt
/forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
Yes, some parts will interchange, msotly just the axles and locker. The ring and pinion (which I do not think is made anymore) is different, with a slightly smaller (something like 10 1/8" or so) ring gear, which helps to give about 1 1/2" clearance under the diff. The Eaton axle shafts are 19 spline I believe. There is a lot of info over on Pirate. I believe that 14BFF SRW axles fit in place of the Eaton SRW axles.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Yes, some parts will interchange, msotly just the axles and locker. The ring and pinion (which I do not think is made anymore) is different, with a slightly smaller (something like 10 1/8" or so) ring gear, which helps to give about 1 1/2" clearance under the diff. The Eaton axle shafts are 19 spline I believe. There is a lot of info over on Pirate. I believe that 14BFF SRW axles fit in place of the Eaton SRW axles.

[/ QUOTE ]

If you use 14BFF axles then you need the side gears or DL for a 14BFF.
 
Nick,

I have one in my '72 Suburban, and I will give you some advice that you will be VERY happy to have....

1. If you are used to working with 14BFFs, you will see what you believe is a fill plug up near the pinion area. It's a square-headed bolt head, but when you back it out, it actually turns out to be about 4 inches long! It also turns out NOT to be the fill plug, but the bolt that sets pinion pre-load...so then you need to call a buddy with an Eaton shop manual to come over late at night and help you figure out how to get it set correctly, so that you can leave for BlazerBash the next day.....

2. The diff cover bolts are "through bolts" into the pumpkin. If you pull the bottommost bolt, gear oil WILL start coming out. You can change the fluid this way and save yourself the trouble of pulling the cover, by just removing about 3 lower bolts. The problem with the Eaton covers is that they are HARD to seal from leaks. I spent a LOT of time meticulously cleaning both surfaces and using a correct gasket with no gasket sealer (the factory supposedly didn't use any) and the freaking thing leaked like a seive! I tried sealing the threads on the bolts and that didn't solve the leaks either. Finally, I just gave up on the whole gasket thing and used that Permatex "Right Stuff" gasket maker (which is AWESOME btw) and drew a gasket onto the back of the cover and reassembled everything. It hasn't leaked a drop of oil since.


Well there you go....a few Eaton BTDT stories to help you along. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Here's a pic of my Eaton H052 in my 69 K20. 4.57 gears with factory Detroit.
eaton01.jpg
 
sweet! I decided to go the Eaton route myself, mostly because it is just as strong (if not stronger) than the 14 bolt, and it is something a little different and cool.

some things to consider:
eatons did not ALL get Detroit Lockers. they were a factory option from GM (G86 No-Spin). They are identical to 14 bolt detroit locker's except for the spline count (17 for the Eaton vs. 30 for 14bff). They also have the dropout third member which makes gear swaps easier. Some of the diffs have the pinion load bolt which helps prevent the pinion gear from deflecting under load (strong), however not all of these axles have this. They also have 3 pinion support bearings like a 14 bolt. The housing is made of sheetmetal, so it is a bit lighter and easier to weld to, and no axletubes to separate from the diff. They have more ground clearance than a 14b, and iirc can be shaved for even more if you so choose. There are a couple guys on Pirate who bought a 12" sch 40 sewer pipe cap and welded it on as a diff cover, a lot stronger than stock.

Right now I am working on making my own hybrid. I bought a complete H052 from a '66 C20, with 4.57 gears and a Detroit, for $100. It does not have the load bolt, however I bought a complete third member from a H072 originally under a '68 C30 motorhome, it has 5.14 gears, the load bolt, and only 28,000 orig. miles for $50. I am on the lookout for a cheap used 14 bolt detroit and a set of 14b axleshafts to complete the package.
 
Okay, I know I'm gonna ask a TOTAL Newb question here, but How do you tell what size the gears are by looking at them?

I've never really done that before, so time to learn!

Also I found almost this exact post has been done before, just search for it.

I got this rear end at the Pull'N'Save in Aurora (www.pullnsave.com). I paid almost $70, which kinda sucked, but since I had to do almost no labor to get it I didn't complain too much.

These Rear's sound pretty cool. I definetly think I'm going to keep it. I like things that are a little different anyways. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom