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Edelbrock metering rods

Why does this plug look like this

  • Lean carb tuning

    Votes: 2 20.0%

  • Timing too far advanced

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • That plug looks fine

    Votes: 7 70.0%

  • Nekkid and enjoying it

    Votes: 1 10.0%
  • Total voters
    10
78Suburban

78Suburban

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Do they sell a kit that had many different performer metering rods? I think I'm running a wee bit lean. (the plugs were previously fouled with carbon deposits from improperly adjusted valves, but that has been long burned off.) Any body got an idea how many rod sizes I need to step up to?


leanplug2.jpg



leanplug.jpg


thanks,
James
 
what carb is it? I run the 1406 (manual choke), the 1407 has the electric choke. And I've been playing around with the metering rods. The kit at the Zone is about $70. but it comes with about 6 sets of rods and about 3-4 sets of jets. It comes with a chart to lets you know what the nubers stamped on the rods are as far as size. The stock rods were not on that chart:mad: . So i think (if I remember right) they were 047's originally in it. I moved up to 347's and they were too lean. I don't remember what I have in there now but I know I'm not having detonation anymore, but it does stumble a little bit if I baby it taking off from a stop, I'm actually thinking about trying to play around with the jets and see what happens. I realize this all probably sounds like greek without that chart in front of you. But if you get the kit you'll know what I mean. But to answer your question, I think I'm 2 to 3 sizes bigger (on the chart) in metering rods right now, but like I said the stock rods weren't on the chart so it's kind of hard for me to know exactly were i'm at. If you pull your rods out and tell me what number is on your rods, maybe I can try to help you more.
 
My bad, my carb is 1405, the electric choke is 1406. You can through Summit but I Think they're like $4-$8 a pair. And it's nice to have an assortment so you can experiment and not order the wrong ones and have to wait for the right set.
 
mine is the 1405. I wonder why the manual choke calibration kit costs 50 bucks, and the electric choke kit costs 35 bucks?
 
I don't know. I bought mine at Auto Zone for $70 at the same time I bought my new carb. If yours is a 1405 then your rods in there are probably the 047's.
 
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=edelbrock+metering+rods&N=115&Nao=10&Ntk=KeywordSearch#rstop

They sell them individually. Where is the number on the rods? I'll pull the rods tomorrow and see which one they are. Maybe I can get away with just buying one set. I also need to tune my Idle mix screws. Is it possible that my IMS could be causing it to run lean throughout the powerband? If I can determine the rod number I have, and one of yall can tell me which rod to step up to, that would be AWSOME.
thanks,
James


PS: The carb was installed and tuned on my 283 by some shadetree mechanic in the days that I was scared to work on stuff myself. So the rods may not be the factory rods, and the IMS may be way off.
 
ive still got the owners manual for my edelbrock carb. it shows the charts for every performer carb. i can scan it and post the pic tomorrow. honestly you cant really just buy one set, you have to experiment and keep fattening the mixure til you see no improvement in performance, then back off one size. your pretty limited by just using rods, it really pays to have the kit with rods, jets and springs that are suited to your application.

i would adjust your idle mixture screws first before messing with rods/jets.it could affect overall performance. i think your supposed to turn them in counterclockwise til you can hear the engine start to starve of fuel, then back of a half a turn. do one at a time.
 
I can pull the metering rods out by just undoing 2 screws on the top,and not replacing any seals, right? If so, I guess I can pull it and make sure its still stock. If it is, perhaps my IMS were just turned way in to compensate for my small 283. It would be nice if I have the stock rods still in the carb, which I suppose would be correct for a 350. If its all internally stock, maybe I can just do a little turning of the idle mix screws and call it good. Will a vaccume gauge be sufficent for tuning a carb?
thanks,
James
 
I don't understand that chart (too much thinking required I guess), but on your metering rod it will be a really small number on it. I didn't see the 'stamped part ID' chart on that link. That's what will help you in determining what size rod you have and where to go from there. Like I said, in the kit I bought it didn't reference that number either. As for adjusting the carb. I usually run the screws one at a time all the way in and back out 1 1/2 turns and then go from there to fine tune it (mostly because I don't own a vaccuum gauge, nor know how to use one). After you pull your rods let us know your number on there and we can go from there, but I agree at $8 a pair it could get more expensive using trial and error than to buy a kit.

Todd
 
Do you have the owners manaul for the carb? If not you should buy it, all the info you'll need.

The manual says to use RPM to tune it but a vac gaage will work too. Basically acheive highest vac or RPM and go a little bit leaner. I dont know for sure how much. That will atleast get you in the ballpark for idle mixture
 
1985_K5_Silverado said:
Are you having any driveability problems that might indicate a lean condition?:confused:
Click to expand...

Stumble at WOT, one lean backfire at WOT, and running a little on the hot side (212*)
 
78Suburban said:
Stumble at WOT, one lean backfire at WOT, and running a little on the hot side (212*)
Click to expand...
Do you know which color step-up springs are installed? Does it stumble momentarily as you accelerate with light throttle, but recover if you really put the pedal down? Does it stumble or backfire at low rpm WOT, high rpm WOT, or throughout the whole rpm range at WOT?
 
1985_K5_Silverado said:
Do you know which color step-up springs are installed? Does it stumble momentarily as you accelerate with light throttle, but recover if you really put the pedal down? Does it stumble or backfire at low rpm WOT, high rpm WOT, or throughout the whole rpm range at WOT?
Click to expand...

I believe it was low rpm WOT, and I would bet a ton of money that the stock rods are still in this 600 cfm performer. It only backfired once, and only really stumbled once. The motor running hot kinda pointed me toward running lean. And the fact that the plugs were so rediculosly clean, it burned off all those old carbon deposits that we left on the electrodes when the valves were way out of whack and the fuel wasn't burning off properly. The deal is that I haven't really messed with any adjustments on the carb. A shadetree mechanic put it on my old 283, and I would bet money he only fooled with the idle mix screws. If that's the case, maybe I'll get lucky and not have to buy any rods or jets. I didn't get to borrow that vaccume gauge today. Can the Idle mix screws be easily adjusted by ear?
thanks,
James
 
You can adjust it by ear. Just do what i said earlier. Adjust one screw to highest idle, then the other. Then tweak each one again till you have max rpm. Give them maybe a 1/8 turn in (leaner) and you should be good to go. Hopefully someone else can chime on a recommendation on how much turn in after max rpm. But this should get you in the ballpark.
 
That's pretty close to how I have mine set right now, like I said turn them ALL the way in (not tightened) and then back them off 1 1/2 turns, then go from there. But I did that and then 1/8 leaner. And I have my accelerator pump adjustment in the middle hole. The accelerator pump will make a big difference.
 
I bought a 1406 and the stock rods where too lean,I went one stage richer.I bought mine at Advance.Mfg #1456......barcode #38014
 
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