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Edelbrock Proflo 4

Thats just one example and it really depends on the engine. I'd rather have more HP/TQ for going up the 6000+ feet mountain passes with the heavy 40" tires.

Another I found with a Hemi. I know its a totally different engine but interesting to see some real numbers.
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Just finished dynoing Bill Hall's 06 300C Hemi. Only mod is Dynomax cat-back. Honestly didn't think the t-stat would make that much difference. How wrong I was! With the car completely warmed up it made 284rwhp & 323rwtq. While still on the dyno I changed the stock 203 deg t-stat to a 180. Started and ran for a few minutes. Not up to full temp and made a pull. The car responded with 306rwhp & 351rwtq!! Did another pull and it almost laid directly over the first (about 2-3 hp less). Finally, with the car completely up to temp it made 300hp & 334tq. IMO, great mod for the $. I used a Napa 191 t-stat and drilled a small 1/16" hole for an air bleed facing up. Hopefully we'll have tuning software at the begining of January and can really fine tune these cars/trucks. I'll try and post the graph this evening.
 
The instructions state 180. So I just swapped it back to the 180 for now.

Thanks for the advice tho dudes.
 
An update to maybe help @MT Bill if it's still needed.

I have not had anymore trouble with the cold engine dying when putting the transmission in gear. I think the biggest help was increasing the target idle to 700 RPM with the IAC at 5% in Park.

Since doing this I've also noticed the IAC behaves better when cold. Before it would sometimes increase as high as 80% when stopped at a light and the engine was still under 165°. It hasn't done that anymore.

I'm still working on cold starts. Been trying to dial in with advanced settings of the crank fuel. I guess if I can't nail it down I'll have to get a block heater. Haha
 
I had a180 in mine and swapped to 195 cause I froze my butt off with little to no heat , once swapped to 195 lots of heat
 
So one of the things I need to do is go through the tuning on mine and see if I can get some more out of it. Being as I'm at least 3 software revisions behind on the truck vs what's currently out there, I'll see if I can get the current parameters written down without it updating
 
mrk5 said:
An update to maybe help @MT Bill if it's still needed.

I have not had anymore trouble with the cold engine dying when putting the transmission in gear. I think the biggest help was increasing the target idle to 700 RPM with the IAC at 5% in Park.

Since doing this I've also noticed the IAC behaves better when cold. Before it would sometimes increase as high as 80% when stopped at a light and the engine was still under 165°. It hasn't done that anymore.

I'm still working on cold starts. Been trying to dial in with advanced settings of the crank fuel. I guess if I can't nail it down I'll have to get a block heater. Haha
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Thank @mrk5 for keeping me in mind. Last week I tried using a richer idle 02 target and increasing the idle incrementally from 625RPM up to 825RPM. Along the way another issue presented itself . . . . I started to see quite a bit of white smoke in the exhaust when cold. It would clear up when warm on Monday and Tuesday and by Thursday it was almost non-existent. I had gone back to my original idle 02 target of 13.9 as recommended by edelbrock techs on Thursday as well, so I had a hopeful thought that I was just seeing more condensation from the richer idle settings. Especially after checking the coolant which showed no signs of oil, and checking the oil which showed no signs of coolant. But on Saturday started it up and there was a pile of white smoke in the exhaust again, and it failed to clear up at operating temperatures.

Saturday we had a high of 5 degrees after it stopped dumping 14in of snow, yesterday it got up to -5F. The rest of the week we are not supposed to see anything much above zero. Since I failed to get my block heater installed and now my battery is shot, I'm stuck driving my shitbox car until temps warm up and I can dig into what looks to be a blown head gasket . . . . after I get that sorted out I will get back to worrying about the stalling issue.
 
I always figure the white smoke on cold days has a lot to with temperature and humidity, maybe dew point too. Could just be that you're seeing the difference in the weather.

This was my crew cab this morning with 20°F and about 73% humidity.

 
@mrk5 thanks for sharing the video. I agree, temperature and humidity do play a large part in what your exhaust stream looks like. The white in your exhaust looks pretty normal to me.
I wish I had taken a video of what I was seeing, but I didn't. What I saw, I felt was more than normal and looked more like white smoke than exhaust vapors. When it finally warms up enough that I can get it started again I'll take a video to share and get some thoughts on it. Right now the forecast doesn't show us getting above zero until Sunday with a high 10F. So I'll probably grab a new battery and a magnetic block heater to see if I can't get running next weekend.
 
mrk5 said:
I always figure the white smoke on cold days has a lot to with temperature and humidity, maybe dew point too. Could just be that you're seeing the difference in the weather.
Click to expand...

This is very true, in the cold weather the water vapor is visible in the exhaust of even a clean running engine, which is directly correlated to dew point, which is dependent on temperature and humidity.

Most people don't realize humidity from the weather man is "relative humidity". This means its based on the saturation point. Absolute humidity, or specific humidity, is measured not in percent, but in the amount of water in the air per mass. So the amount of grains per pound for example. There are 7000 grains in a pound, so 7000 would be pure water vapor.

If you punch the numbers into the Gearhead Pro app, the water grains/lb of water at standard atmospheric pressure at 75% relative humidity and 80 degrees is about 115.8 grains/lb. If you change the temperature to zero, and leave the pressure and relative humidity exactly the same, the water grains is less than 5 at 4.9 grains/lb. That's over 23X the actual humidity level, even though the weatherman says its the same! Cold air cannot hold the moisture, so you see it immediately look like fog when the hot moist air hits the cold dry air.

If it is not water vapor you are seeing, it will probably smell like burning oil or sweet antifreeze.
 
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MT Bill said:
@mrk5 thanks for sharing the video. I agree, temperature and humidity do play a large part in what your exhaust stream looks like. The white in your exhaust looks pretty normal to me.
I wish I had taken a video of what I was seeing, but I didn't. What I saw, I felt was more than normal and looked more like white smoke than exhaust vapors. When it finally warms up enough that I can get it started again I'll take a video to share and get some thoughts on it. Right now the forecast doesn't show us getting above zero until Sunday with a high 10F. So I'll probably grab a new battery and a magnetic block heater to see if I can't get running next weekend.
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I'm hoping for your sake it's just regular condensation. :o It's hard when stuff like that happens because you normally don't pay that close attention to it and then something happens and you question if it always looked like that or is it more/less/different.
 
Man I hope so too! That would be best case scenario for sure. At this point I'm trying to not get carried away with worst case speculations . . . .

My sniffer doesn't work all that well, but I couldn't smell any burnt oil. But there may have been a very slight hint of sweet coolant aroma present.

I was encouraged to see there wasn't any oil in the coolant. While I didn't change the oil I pulled the plug enough to let it start dripping out and the only thing that came out was oil, no water or coolant. Oil pressure is still doing fine so if the head gasket is blown it must not have done any damage as of yet.
 
Monitor the coolant level or do a compression check to see if it's leaking coolant from a head gasket or something.
 
@folkenheath I'm thinking the compression check is probably in order.


One thing I had been wondering about and possibly the group here has some ideas:
I have been using MAP 5017 based on the Setup wizard
- 383cu.in
- Stock cam pulling ~16in of gauge vacuum at idle (Flo Pro gauges show 21in at idle and 5in when not running)
- Wizard defaulted to 43psi regulator and wouldn't let me change it, but I am running the 58psi fuel pressure regulator

My short fuel trims eventually evened out, but the long FT was always negative and never really got close to zero.
Would it be worth my time to try running MAP 5008 or 5009 to see if it balances out the long FT over time better? Could it possibly help with the stalling when shifting into gear cold issues?
 
This is one of the limits of the Edelbrock software. You can't choose 58 psi for a stock type engine, there is no tune for that, and their tunes have limits for the self learning, which is both good and bad. It shouldn't get so far out of whack that it won't run, but it also may never get correct in certain situations.

You can try one of the other tunes, the 5009 or the 5019, both of those are 58 psi tunes. Right now you are using 43 psi tune with 58 psi, so the engine always has more fuel than the ECU thinks it does. With these tunes, the engine may need less fuel than the ECU thinks it does. I would try the 5009 first, you will be at the upper limit of cubes but have a milder cam. With the 5019 you will be at the lower limit of cubes and a smaller cam.

Try both of those, if you don't get satisfactory results, then I would get an adjustable regulator so you can set it to 43 psi and run the 5017 tune.
 
This is where I’m at now. Running the 43 psi on the 5006 map, and I know there is some left on the table
 
@folkenheath may I ask why you prefer the adjustable regulator over the vacuum referenced one that it's possible to use with the PF4?
Maybe you stated previously and I don't remember.

Side note, I am really curious about the volcano modification, but I can't seem to make it a priority to do yet.
 
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