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Bent77
Guest
One reason I can tell you would be the addition of the MAP packages that you are now excluded from using. You would have twice as many options
CK5
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Edelbrock Proflo 4
- Thread starter 6872xtc
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Bent77
Guest
@folkenheath
I found some information listed that specified the 5008 MAP is based off the ZZ6 EFI. As a retailer, do they provide you with and of the parameter settings specific to that?
I found some information listed that specified the 5008 MAP is based off the ZZ6 EFI. As a retailer, do they provide you with and of the parameter settings specific to that?
I have this feeling that this would be better if we were all in a hands-on classroom.
I don't know if this information would benefit my application, but learning about it should be nice!
What Maps would possibly be beneficial to not have it pull a little fuel under high vacuum conditions, without relying solely on the injectors?
My thought process is along the lines of vacuum advance timing, vacuum referenced power pistons in carburetors, boost reference on waste gates, boost reference on Bosch inline diesel injection pumps... using the engine conditions (?) to help refine performance.
The adjustable one is still vacuum referenced(I don't recommend you use one without vacuum reference), and they are adjustable. That is why I prefer them. So with the Edelbrock, it allows you to use any of the tunes, not just half of them. And with other EFI systems like Holley and Fast, it allows you to set the fuel pressure to whatever you want, I have mine set at 50 because it increases the flow capacity, and I don't need 58.
So I guess the main reason is because its both, vacuum referenced and adjustable. Most adjustable units are also rebuildable, a new diaphragm and spring and its like new again.
As for the vacuum reference, think of the vacuum reference as an equalizer. The injector sees the differential(delta) pressure between the fuel inlet end, and the manifold port spray end. When you have vacuum or boost, it increases or decreases the pressure at one end, but not the other. Once you reference it, the pressure differential is nearly always the same. So if you have 43 psi of fuel pressure, and 20 in of vacuum, that's almost 10 psi(9.8) of vacuum, so now the delta is 53 psi, when the reference port back it down to 43 psi again. The increases the resolution, or control, at the smaller delta pressure, which is important at idle because you get finer control of the fuel amount.
Or if you have boost of 10 psi, then the delta is only 43-10 or 33 psi, and then you lose capacity, so boost referencing puts it back to 43 psi delta again, and you get your flow back. This is especially true in high HP cases, imagine running 50 psi of boost with only 43 psi fuel pressure, if you did not boost reference it, you would end up pushing air into the fuel injector at 7 psi! If you did boost reference it, you would end up with 93 psi of fuel pressure that the pump sees(the pump inlet is still at atmospheric pressure), but still only 43 psi at the injector delta.
This makes it easier for the computer to compensate too, especially since the Edelbrock tunes assume you are manifold pressure referenced.
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Thank you for typing all of that. The clarification helps me. Your knowledge comes through again.
Not that I am aware of. What parameters do you mean exactly?
Thank you for typing all of that. The clarification helps me. Your knowledge comes through again.
Thank you, and glad I can help. I think you responded so quick I had added some stuff after that.
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Bent77
Guest
Well for example, the GM crate engine is the ZZ6 EFI, and is the unit that the factory has the PF4 installed with. The map 5008 is designed w/ and for that exact application
I have a SP350/385 crate with a PF4 installed. It is part for part identical with the ZZ6 EFI, other than the tuning being locked out (per GM and Edelbrock)
Trying to find what exactly they preset as the parameters for that has felt like I’m asking for the logic basis of the programming, some dark secret proprietary list that shall not be spoken of
All I was hoping for was the list of stuff like @mrk5 has at the top of the forum for the original map 5008, since it is essentially what I should be using
Here's a left field PF4 question. I read somewhere in the directions about jump starting causing damage to the ECU. I can't remember if this was in regards to being jump started or jump starting someone else, but how do you all feel about it?
I remember watching an episode of Roadkill when Finnegan was doing drag week in his Blasphemi they ruined an aftermarket ECU getting jump started.
I was just thinking about this the other day because I was sitting a restaurant waiting to pick up food to take home. The car next to me kept making this odd intermittent noise. I finally realized they were trying to start their car and the only thing that was happening was the solenoid was clicking. I don't have jumper cables in the C10, but it occurred to me that I probably shouldn't give someone a jump start. I suppose if it was me jumping someone else, I could disconnect the PF4 ECU and try to jump them straight off the battery. If I needed a jump I suppose I would have to disconnect and see if the other person's car could charge my battery enough for it to restart.
I've helped people with jump starts several times. I'm curious on some other thoughts about this.
I remember watching an episode of Roadkill when Finnegan was doing drag week in his Blasphemi they ruined an aftermarket ECU getting jump started.
I was just thinking about this the other day because I was sitting a restaurant waiting to pick up food to take home. The car next to me kept making this odd intermittent noise. I finally realized they were trying to start their car and the only thing that was happening was the solenoid was clicking. I don't have jumper cables in the C10, but it occurred to me that I probably shouldn't give someone a jump start. I suppose if it was me jumping someone else, I could disconnect the PF4 ECU and try to jump them straight off the battery. If I needed a jump I suppose I would have to disconnect and see if the other person's car could charge my battery enough for it to restart.
I've helped people with jump starts several times. I'm curious on some other thoughts about this.
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Bent77
Guest
Someplace in either the FiTech or Sniper FB forum, the manufacturers suggest not jump starting or using a charger to jump start the vehicle
My battery has been dying for a while now, so every time I put it on the charger I disconnect the ECU just to be safe. I have not jumped someone else as of yet, but you have me thinking . . . .
Kain
3/4 ton status
Paul from edelbrock told me not to jump unless you have no other choice, said to get a smart jump box whatever that is.
i asked cause i want to go camping off grid and might need a jump. said not to use solar with ecu plugged up chance it could fry ecu
i asked cause i want to go camping off grid and might need a jump. said not to use solar with ecu plugged up chance it could fry ecu
Jump box if the safe ticket anymore .
When i was towing i delivered a few nissans to the dealer for this problem . Heard its in the 700 to 800 range for there fix .
Jump box has no possible feedbacks or cross problems from vehicle to vehicle .
JNC BRAND or SOLAR are the 2 i would do with JNC blue unit the most popular in the tow truck world .
When i was towing i delivered a few nissans to the dealer for this problem . Heard its in the 700 to 800 range for there fix .
Jump box has no possible feedbacks or cross problems from vehicle to vehicle .
JNC BRAND or SOLAR are the 2 i would do with JNC blue unit the most popular in the tow truck world .
This is the specific wording from the installation instructions:
BATTERY CHARGER PRECAUTIONS - PLEASE ADHERE TO THE FOLLOWING GUIDELINES OR DAMAGE TO ECU MAY OCCUR.
• Be sure the battery has a full charge prior to attempting to start the vehicle.
• Never use the “engine start or jump start” setting on a charger to start the engine.
• Do not set the battery charger above 10 amps when charging.
• Never turn on the ECU or attempt to start the engine with the battery charger connected
• Make sure the charger is not charging over 18.0 volts.
• If the battery is completely discharged, it is best to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery when charging.
BATTERY CHARGER PRECAUTIONS - PLEASE ADHERE TO THE FOLLOWING GUIDELINES OR DAMAGE TO ECU MAY OCCUR.
• Be sure the battery has a full charge prior to attempting to start the vehicle.
• Never use the “engine start or jump start” setting on a charger to start the engine.
• Do not set the battery charger above 10 amps when charging.
• Never turn on the ECU or attempt to start the engine with the battery charger connected
• Make sure the charger is not charging over 18.0 volts.
• If the battery is completely discharged, it is best to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery when charging.
I guess no more good samaritan for me.
yep you can with a good jump pack like i posted up .
True, but I don't know that I want to drive around with one in my C10 all the time. Although I will say they are more compact than I thought. Still might tough to find a spot to stow it.yep you can with a good jump pack like i posted up .
i could fit atleast 4 JNC blue units behind my back seat if there is nothing back there . so 1 in a truck is super easy .
better off having a quick disconnect at your battery.
Yeah, but the jump pack would be like a cool new toy....
