texas4x4rebel
1/2 ton status
There is no option for a LS motor do the 6.0 and ill take care off the eletric gizmos for you its easy as pie.
CK5
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Edit: Help me BUILD a 400 - 9/7 engine is back home.
- Thread starter chalet2506
- Start date
There is no option for a LS motor do the 6.0 and ill take care off the eletric gizmos for you its easy as pie.
texas4x4rebel
1/2 ton status
I think with the vortec motor you might have to get metric bolts but the accessories will bolt up they should have all the same holes.
I would go with this.
http://paceperformance.com/i-625549...intake-carburetor-distributor-water-pump.html
In all serious, I don't what I would choose. For a intent and purpose, the block to use is a toss up. The later model blocks may seal better, but you have to get a different flex plate. As the aftermarket goes, they don't make too many of the one piece seal. I also think the blocks don't have lot of "meat" to them as the early model blocks.
As for heads, the are lots of iron aftermarket heads available that probably give just as much power and you don't have get different intakes for it.
http://paceperformance.com/i-625549...intake-carburetor-distributor-water-pump.html
In all serious, I don't what I would choose. For a intent and purpose, the block to use is a toss up. The later model blocks may seal better, but you have to get a different flex plate. As the aftermarket goes, they don't make too many of the one piece seal. I also think the blocks don't have lot of "meat" to them as the early model blocks.
As for heads, the are lots of iron aftermarket heads available that probably give just as much power and you don't have get different intakes for it.
1BEATK5
1/2 ton status
my opinion
2 piece rear main.
used low mileage vortec motor w/gmpp intake
used l98 or lt1 camaro/firebird engine.
if you build an engine, vortec. great truck engine.
reman vortec w/warrantee would be a really good choice.
2 piece rear main.
used low mileage vortec motor w/gmpp intake
used l98 or lt1 camaro/firebird engine.
if you build an engine, vortec. great truck engine.
reman vortec w/warrantee would be a really good choice.
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
So there is nothing really wrong with your sb400? sr torker heads and everything bolts up. Regasket everything, new oil pump and timing chain and run it. Just my opinion. Loved the 400 I had in bluebeast till it started knocking. Lots of torque
Nothing terribly wrong with the 400, just 35 years old and 100K plus miles. Doing a bunch of other work, figure I'll replace the engine while I have it apart.
Looks like a set of sr torker heads runs around $1000.
I like the idea of a long block. Nothing for me to do but add the accesories and intake. I think I can handle that.
Cost for vortec Longblock 4 bolt main
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12530283/
$2258 - Includes core
Longblock
GM Intake
$320
Flexplate 168 tooth
$105
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-14088761/
Flexplate bolts
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-84538/
$7
Carter Electric Street Pump kit $75
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P4070/?rtype=10
Looks like a set of sr torker heads runs around $1000.
I like the idea of a long block. Nothing for me to do but add the accesories and intake. I think I can handle that.
Cost for vortec Longblock 4 bolt main
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12530283/
$2258 - Includes core
Longblock
GM Intake
$320
Flexplate 168 tooth
$105
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-14088761/
Flexplate bolts
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-84538/
$7
Carter Electric Street Pump kit $75
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P4070/?rtype=10
Last edited:
So, still kicking this around. Stopped by Wayne Calvert Precision (linky) this morning to see what they might charge me to rebuild my 350. Have been driving past that place for years and didn't realize who he was until I looked it up on the web.
Wayne was manning the counter when I walked in. Introduced myself and he was kind enough to take a few minutes and discuss some general options. He gave me a rough estimate of $2000 to rebuild my 350. He also agreed the later Vortec would be a good engine to go with.
Thinking now maybe I'll just buy vortec heads and intake, use my 350 block, and have him reman lower end and put it together. Best of both worlds maybe? Stock flexplate, fuel pump and mounts. Guess I would need to work out roller cam for my 350 and if its worth the extra dough.
I know, six of one or half dozen of another. But, I wouldn't mind paying a little more to have local shop with great rep build it. GM doesn't warranty their engines if its now used in the correct application. So, later model longblock in my 72 will have no warranty. Not sure if I want to risk that the way things are built these days.
Wayne was manning the counter when I walked in. Introduced myself and he was kind enough to take a few minutes and discuss some general options. He gave me a rough estimate of $2000 to rebuild my 350. He also agreed the later Vortec would be a good engine to go with.
Thinking now maybe I'll just buy vortec heads and intake, use my 350 block, and have him reman lower end and put it together. Best of both worlds maybe? Stock flexplate, fuel pump and mounts. Guess I would need to work out roller cam for my 350 and if its worth the extra dough.
I know, six of one or half dozen of another. But, I wouldn't mind paying a little more to have local shop with great rep build it. GM doesn't warranty their engines if its now used in the correct application. So, later model longblock in my 72 will have no warranty. Not sure if I want to risk that the way things are built these days.
blueblazes44
1/2 ton status
Maybe a 383? Can be built for almost same $$ as a 350. The vortec heads will work well with any build you choose. www.patriot-performance.com also offers heads at a great price.
I want to say that after looking at your truck the other day, I don't think LS is easy as pie. All kinds of wires under there.
383 would be nice, but don't really need that kind of power. Keep reminding myself that what I want is a dependable, efficient as I can get it motor with just enough muscle to break 33's loose with 3.73 gears and a locker.
Not like I'm going to be towing with or racing the thing.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Regardless of vortec or not, the accessories from a 350 will bolt up. Many of us have taken newer vortec serp setups to use on our older 350's. The one piece rear main is a big plus, as well as the roller cam. My choice is the newer block, but it is up to you. In addition to the one piece rear main, you have centerbolt valve covers, and readily available rubber gaskets that will last a good long time.
Why fix what ain't broke?
Taking my 400 to Calvert Precision. Casting# 330817, virgin 2 bolt main. Accessories are all new. Get it rebuilt,open up the exhaust a little, better intake, maybe torquer heads. If I drop it off early next week, should have it back in plenty of time for my 72 rebuild. Might cost a little more to go this route, but should be a whoopass motor I know is built right. Right?
Taking my 400 to Calvert Precision. Casting# 330817, virgin 2 bolt main. Accessories are all new. Get it rebuilt,open up the exhaust a little, better intake, maybe torquer heads. If I drop it off early next week, should have it back in plenty of time for my 72 rebuild. Might cost a little more to go this route, but should be a whoopass motor I know is built right. Right?
It ran well enough before the wreck. I could get both 37's to squeak on concrete with the detroit and 4.10's. Had a little miss on passenger side and used some oil. Figure once I get it freshened up with half ton gear, 3.73's and 33's and should be able to light them up.
Better put some money into my 12 bolt.....
Better put some money into my 12 bolt.....
texas4x4rebel
1/2 ton status
About time you made up your mind HAHA. Nice choice.
mark a bricker
Registered Member
Goooood ,,,now come with me to the datk side ,,you need it ,,say it ,, say it.......subchalet......subchalet...subchalet.........
Wind swaps direction I might change my mind. I think with all the girls I'm picking up second hand estrogen at the house.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Yeah, I think they are picking it up from you.
Cool, glad to see you keeping the 400 going!
Cool, glad to see you keeping the 400 going!DizturbedOne
1/2 ton status
There's no "debate", 400 SBC's are awesome!
They get a bad rep from people putting heads from a 350/305 on there and not drilling the steam holes... Then %75 of those people swear they wouldn't do something that stupid after it blew up.
They get a bad rep from people putting heads from a 350/305 on there and not drilling the steam holes... Then %75 of those people swear they wouldn't do something that stupid after it blew up.
blueblazes44
1/2 ton status
There's no "debate", 400 SBC's are awesome!
They get a bad rep from people putting heads from a 350/305 on there and not drilling the steam holes... Then %75 of those people swear they wouldn't do something that stupid after it blew up.
X2. 400 with vortec heads make a great combo. Just drill the steam holes.
So, what's a good cam if I go with torquer heads? Most of the cam, spring and valve #'s make little sense. It appears you need larger combustion chambers to keep the compression down to run pump gas.
I'm looking for good low end power, and as good as I can get it fuel mileage. What's the correlation between compression ratio and fuel mileage? I'd figure high compression would make for a more efficient engine. Maybe better to go with a high compression ratio?
So these heads with 76 cc chambers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WRL-042670-1/
and this cam should be good power?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-301A3LUN/
Is it better to by bare heads, or assembled money wise?
Going to talk this through with the engine shop when I go in, just don't want to look like an idiot when the conversation gets going.
I'm looking for good low end power, and as good as I can get it fuel mileage. What's the correlation between compression ratio and fuel mileage? I'd figure high compression would make for a more efficient engine. Maybe better to go with a high compression ratio?
So these heads with 76 cc chambers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WRL-042670-1/
and this cam should be good power?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-301A3LUN/
Is it better to by bare heads, or assembled money wise?
Going to talk this through with the engine shop when I go in, just don't want to look like an idiot when the conversation gets going.
