Edited: Bent crossmember and body mounts. Help!

[obijuan]

dude, bravo! that is just ridiculous!

 

[Dabba]

Thank you very much for the advice. Im dont have help readily available so im probably gonna do it on my own. The engine mounts look okay and i know i need to replace the tranny mount. How many body mounts are there? It looks like 3 or 4 to a side? Any suggestions for where to pick up a 1 inch lift kit thats good and a new crossmember and tranny mount? Thanks!

 

[uao85]

wow... First thing I would do is straighten your frame. Then move on to replace the crossmember. Then I would work my way around to all the mounts whether body or driveline. You got pretty lucky the torque from your crossmember didnt tear the frame or rip apart your transfer case and transmission. Good luck with the fix.

Remington

 

[gmc4cw]

the frame/crossmember is the priority. I'll see if I have that style one, I think I scrapped the last one.

if its a K5 then you have 6 mounts per side. contact ORD for the 1" bodylift, they can probably also help you with the tranny mount and body bushings.

post a wanted ad in the classified section for the crossmember.

 

[Dabba]

will do as soon as i have the funds. Now someone mentioned those spacers arnt suppose to be there, this true?

 

[kgblazerfive]

Yes and no some have spacers and some don't

 

[Slapperbar]

Dude, those engine mounts are toast also. The upper shell shouldn't be hitting the frame.

 

[Dabba]

Dude, those engine mounts are toast also. The upper shell shouldn't be hitting the frame.

Whats the upper shell? I cant really tell with the engine mounts. How hard are they to replace, ill take a closer look tommorow.

 

[Slapperbar]

The upper shell, or whatever you want to call it, is what is actually bolted to the side of the engine block.
They're easy to replace. All you need is a jack and a piece of wood to go under the oil pan to jack the motor up. Just BE CAREFUL not to cave in the oil pan. It's not good.

 

[Dabba]

ill double check those tommorow, maybe the angle of the camera is bad. Thanks for the info. I check the ORD website and see the body mounts and one inch lift, i take it ill need both? If so im not sure i actaully want to put money into this truck yet for the 1 inch lift. I mean i kinda beat it to hell and its got a few rust spots i dont like. I was also considering getting a cucv pickup. Comes with the 1 ton drivetrain and camo so.

 

[Slapperbar]

You need to get the driveline in order first. X member and mounts, research poly vs rubber. I would go polly, do it once and it's done for good. Then do the body lift.

 

[Dabba]

whats the difference between poly and rubber?

I was looking at lmc or ORD body mounts. Anyone else?

 

[Slapperbar]

Polly will last a lot longer and put up with more abuse than rubber. They'er also stiffer.

 

[Dabba]

Polly will last a lot longer and put up with more abuse than rubber. They'er also stiffer.

Poly it is then

 

[rcamacho]

I'm utilizing the energy suspension motor mount inserts - highly recommended as they keep the BBC from winding up the driveline. I also recommend a urethane transmission mount to match as well. One note, if you are running an aluminum xfer case (208 or 241) make sure there is a torque rod from the xfer to the engine block, else the adapter or xfer may fail with the increased torque load.

 

[Slapperbar]

As rcamacho said replace all or none. If you do the engine and not the trans, the trans will flex more than the engine and potentially break the case.

 

[Dabba]

Ill check the engine mounts tommorow or whenever i have good light/time. Replacing the body and tranny mounts seems easy enough, how does one go about replacing the engine mounts?

 

[Slapperbar]

See post 29.

 

[Dabba]

See post 29.

I guess ill need to look at them in more detail, i still dont quite see what ill be replacing of it. Ill let you know.

 

[Slapperbar]

It's the rubber in the middle that the long bolt goes thru.