wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah you got it! I know Ryan agans truck uses them....it's a k10 and the later part of his build on pirate shows where they are, although very much fabbed.
CK5
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educate me on suspension options, beyond the 52" etc
- Thread starter K30Blazer
- Start date
Yeah you got it! I know Ryan agans truck uses them....it's a k10 and the later part of his build on pirate shows where they are, although very much fabbed.
That truck is fkn bad ass
link to said truck?
For the torsion sway bars there are many sources they have been used in the racing world for years. Currie just adapted them to Jeeps.
There are also plenty of stock style sway bars out there just a matter of finding and fitting
There are also plenty of stock style sway bars out there just a matter of finding and fitting
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
A great build indeed. Its pretty close to what my goal is. Something that will crawl the nastiest of terrains to something I can go jump in the dunes a bit.
Its very well built. He lives about 2 hours from me and got 3rd place in the top truck challenge last year. I know hes always wheeling at hollister so im sure ill run into him at some point.
We have 3 good example trucks that we own or owned:
My K5 before TTC: our leaves fr and rear, 2" bilsteins in custom mounts on front, near stock mounts in the back. Did all you're asking with no swaybar but I did have a panhard bar on it with a bunch of goofy crap to make it work right and overall it did have pretty good body roll, it just drove nice when it rolled so as long as you "felt" OK it was OK. I felt ok. A swaybar would fix it if it bothered you.
Our '88 'burb: when we sold it, it had our prototype coilover system on the front and some 64" TCI leaves on the back with some 14 x 2.25" SAW shocks outboarded on the rear, 2.5"x14s on the front. Once again it did all you're asking (plus haul more stuff inside) with no problems. No swaybar on that truck but it wouldn't have hurt anything to mount a couple bars. Handling was very precise due to the front l links and it covered rough terrain really comfortably.
Our '99 K2500: It's on our leaves fr and rear with King 2.5" shocks all around and it rides and drives pretty good. Not as precise as links and not with the wheel travel of a linked front but then again the leaves bolt on very easily. No swaybar and the last trip it went on was just my wife and kids with the inlaws and she and the boys drove it the whole time.
All these recipes are acceptable as daily drivers as far as handling is concerned. Key point to all is good shocks mounted in good positions. The rear of K5 is a bit of a chore but there are ways to make it work. Outboarding the shocks on my 'burb really surprised us how easy it worked out but it can be hard with large diameter long body shocks. we've put shocks through the bed floor before but only by a few inches which makes for small boxes to cover them up. Inboard of the frame but tipped forward (NOT together at the tops) can work OK but a swaybar is probably more important here.
My K5 before TTC: our leaves fr and rear, 2" bilsteins in custom mounts on front, near stock mounts in the back. Did all you're asking with no swaybar but I did have a panhard bar on it with a bunch of goofy crap to make it work right and overall it did have pretty good body roll, it just drove nice when it rolled so as long as you "felt" OK it was OK. I felt ok. A swaybar would fix it if it bothered you.
Our '88 'burb: when we sold it, it had our prototype coilover system on the front and some 64" TCI leaves on the back with some 14 x 2.25" SAW shocks outboarded on the rear, 2.5"x14s on the front. Once again it did all you're asking (plus haul more stuff inside) with no problems. No swaybar on that truck but it wouldn't have hurt anything to mount a couple bars. Handling was very precise due to the front l links and it covered rough terrain really comfortably.
Our '99 K2500: It's on our leaves fr and rear with King 2.5" shocks all around and it rides and drives pretty good. Not as precise as links and not with the wheel travel of a linked front but then again the leaves bolt on very easily. No swaybar and the last trip it went on was just my wife and kids with the inlaws and she and the boys drove it the whole time.
All these recipes are acceptable as daily drivers as far as handling is concerned. Key point to all is good shocks mounted in good positions. The rear of K5 is a bit of a chore but there are ways to make it work. Outboarding the shocks on my 'burb really surprised us how easy it worked out but it can be hard with large diameter long body shocks. we've put shocks through the bed floor before but only by a few inches which makes for small boxes to cover them up. Inboard of the frame but tipped forward (NOT together at the tops) can work OK but a swaybar is probably more important here.
