Electric pump for a lift pump

[k20]

Does anyone have a p/n for the electric pump that guys use to replace the mechanical pump on the side of the block? Thinking about doing that cause looking down at that thing...I dont want to change it. Nothing wrong w/ the mechanical one I have now besides making it a pain to bleed the fuel system.

Preferably a relatively cheap pump, <$50 would be nice

Also does anyone make a blockoff plate for it, or just leave the mechanical one there to block off the hole? Lookin at it, looks like one off a gas motor would work, just wondering if anyone knew for sure

 

[tRustyK5]

Bump...looks like the lift pump on my pick-up stopped working so I'd like to know too.

Rene

 

[Russell]

I am using a Walboro 255LPH in-tank pump with a holley inline regulator between the two filters. Seems to work fairly well, the pump is supplying 60+ PSI and the regulator is dropping it down to about 6 psi.

My fuel system is done mostly in stainless steel instrument grade tubing (.049) with Swagelok compression fittings. Supposed to be good for 10 000+ PSI, so I think I'll be fine I think I spent more on doing the fuel system than most anything else...

 

[tRustyK5]

Yeah...in case you missed it I'm looking for low pressure, easy to install (AKA not in tank) and cheap.

5-7 psi, frame rail mount, under $75. Pretty sure Chris is looking for the same. The mech lift pump is a complete asshole to swap with the engine in the truck.

Rene

 

[k20]

Ya know I think one of our diesel generators has a napa pump on it....I'll see if the sticker is still on the pump on monday.

 

[cegusman]

The mech lift pump is a complete asshole to swap with the engine in the truc

Rene

Its not that bad. I did mine in under 30 min. Taking the wheel well out helps alot.

 

[Russell]

I have an inline jobber I used to test fire the engine before I plumbed in the in-tank unit. It runs 10 - 15 PSI, and is just a generic frame mounted pump. Dropping it down with a regulator is cheap and easy. I'll try and find some details on it, but I don't recall seeing any part numbers or whatever on it.

By the way, converting to an in-tank pump is easy as pie, pull the old sender out, and drop the new TBI sender in. Sure, your tank doesn't have any baffles in it, but if you keep it above 1/4 full (like you should with an electric in-tank pump anyways), you'll never have a problem with it. The TBI pump runs about 15 PSI, so you'd need to regulate it as well, but that is cheap any easy. I am using a Holley fuel regulator for mine.

 

[MaxPF]

I have replaced electric fuel pumps on 4 previous vehicles. In all cases they gave me no warning before they failed and I was left stranded. I'm going to stick with the mechanical pump. They last a reasonably long time, usually give warning before making you walk, and they don't need any electricity to keep the engine running

 

[k20]

Yeh like I said Im gonna try to get a number off that pump on our diesel generator at work. Its a 4cyl perkins diesel and it runs about 3000rpm constantly. No regulator or anything and the pump was only 35-40 bucks at napa.

 

[tRustyK5]

I have replaced electric fuel pumps on 4 previous vehicles. In all cases they gave me no warning before they failed and I was left stranded. I'm going to stick with the mechanical pump. They last a reasonably long time, usually give warning before making you walk, and they don't need any electricity to keep the engine running

I see advantages to both. To be honest having a fuel pump fail isn't enough to make you have to walk anyways. Just a bit more difficult to start, and probably not so good for the IP.

Seems to me any fuel pump can fail, so having an inexpensive and accessible electric is the way to go. It'd be a lot nicer come filter change time too.

Rene

 

[tRustyK5]

I'm looking at these two...

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MRG-12D&N=700+0&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&N=700+4294836965+4294860680+115&autoview=sku

The carter flows 30gph and 4 psi with 5/16" in and out, the MrGasket flows 35 gph, slightly more pressure and has 3/8" lines in and out. Both are similar money.

I wonder if the Carter is enough? I think the factory lines are 5/16" anyways...and the 6.2 doesn't use anywhere close to that volume of fuel. I 'think' 4 psi would be fine.

Rene

 

[k20]

yeh the one at work looks like the mr gasket one in the pic.

 

[diaric]

I've had two 6.2's with the carter installed on them and one on a SB 400, seemed to work fine

 

[Russell]

I have most of my system plumbed in 1/4" lines, so 5/16 should be plenty!

 

[kennyw]

Only downside is the cheaper pumps tend to be a little noisy. This is one place where I would spend a little extra to get a more durable pump if you can. But I've used plenty of the $30 frame mounted cheapies with no failures. Only thing is I don't tend to keep a rig very long most of the time.

 

[dieselponyexpress]

I'm looking at these two...

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MRG-12D&N=700+0&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&N=700+4294836965+4294860680+115&autoview=sku

The carter flows 30gph and 4 psi with 5/16" in and out, the MrGasket flows 35 gph, slightly more pressure and has 3/8" lines in and out. Both are similar money.

I wonder if the Carter is enough? I think the factory lines are 5/16" anyways...and the 6.2 doesn't use anywhere close to that volume of fuel. I 'think' 4 psi would be fine.

Rene

1988 and up diesels were equipped with electrich fuel pumps. I remember reading the specs somewhere (TDP maybe) as 0.5 gallon per minute and 4-6 psi. So the Carter pump should be right between specs.

Walter

 

[k20]

Alrighty boys the ones on the engines at work (well of course the pumps that have the napa version were all out on jobs today) but the real version is a Facet 60106. I found it on advances site for 44 bucks, or this yacht supply place for 29.99.
http://www.yachtsupplydepot.com/mec...mps/facet-posi-flo-pump-60106/prod_23458.html

http://facet-purolator.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=7&id=13&Itemid=35 there are the specs on it.

 

[Russell]

Couldn't find any details on my inline pump. 100 PSI through a holley regulator is too much for it though, I was noticing a lot of pressure creep through it.

Gonna swap the pump out with a stock TBI unit, and sell both the TPI and the LSx Walboro pumps.

 

[Camaronate]

I have replaced electric fuel pumps on 4 previous vehicles. In all cases they gave me no warning before they failed and I was left stranded. I'm going to stick with the mechanical pump. They last a reasonably long time, usually give warning before making you walk, and they don't need any electricity to keep the engine running

I got a 9 psi electric pump from autozone that is setup to run in bypass from the mechanical. Turn the bypass to the electric and easy priming and a great backup in case the mechanical fails. Swap to the other side and its all mechanical. All is setup on the fender well below the Aux fuel filter.

Nate

 

[6.2Blazer]

1988 and up diesels were equipped with electrich fuel pumps. I remember reading the specs somewhere (TDP maybe) as 0.5 gallon per minute and 4-6 psi. So the Carter pump should be right between specs.

Walter

Maybe in pickups that had switched to the new body style with IFS, but to the best of knowledge the Blazers, Suburbans, and some trucks that retained the old body style through '91 had a mechanical lift pump. My '90 K5 with the 6.2 came with the engine mounted mechanical pump.