Oh ok I gotcha now, yeah ill do that, thanks.Here's a picture I found of somebody cheating radial (leads both on the same end) caps in place of axial (lead at the centerline at each end). I was just suggesting to add some heatshrink or whatever to insulate the long lead. Would probably also work to glue the cap in place. If you got the right cap, don't worry about it. This is bad practice for high frequency stuff, but this board has no high frequency stuff.
CK5
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Electrical geniuses needed!!!!
- Thread starter Jake_C_
- Start date
Ok so I took the delay module to the guy I got it from and he threw it in one of his trucks and it works fine. So I’m guessing my switch in the column is bad. But while I was there he gave me these parts
so instead I’ll just wire this switch in since it goes with my new bezel. I’ll also go ahead and replace the wiper motor with one that has the washer pump built in. Should fix my problems. Only issue is figuring out which wire goes where but I think with your guys help I’ll Figure it out.
so instead I’ll just wire this switch in since it goes with my new bezel. I’ll also go ahead and replace the wiper motor with one that has the washer pump built in. Should fix my problems. Only issue is figuring out which wire goes where but I think with your guys help I’ll Figure it out.
I have a manual for 1990 R/V series (squarebody)
Nice score on parts!
However I have been told by someone who tried the swap, that the dash structure is not the same for a truck with the wipers on the column versus one with them in the dash. The headlight switch moved, so you can't bolt the wiper switch in without modifications. I haven't tried it myself, but I trust who told me about it.
However I have been told by someone who tried the swap, that the dash structure is not the same for a truck with the wipers on the column versus one with them in the dash. The headlight switch moved, so you can't bolt the wiper switch in without modifications. I haven't tried it myself, but I trust who told me about it.
Yes this is true. I tried a newer in old style doesn't work.
So the dash is different where the switch goes? I knew I would have to cut a hole for it. And also cut a hole and move the headlight switch down.
Yes, the dash structure is different as far as where the headlight switch is.
Since I have had several columns apart, I would just change out the wiper switch and leave it I the column. Much easier and faster, IMO.
Since I have had several columns apart, I would just change out the wiper switch and leave it I the column. Much easier and faster, IMO.
Well I’ll at least move the headlight switch because I defiantly want to use that bezel. I’ll have to see about the wipers.
Ok I had a big hole in my dash right below the headlight switch from the previous owner so that part of the dash needed work anyway. I moved the headlight switch and cut out an area for the wiper switch and it all lines up good so I’m happy. When I got the new wiper switch I got all the wiring and harnesses that went with it all the way past the delay module so I spliced in the new delay module harness and it was good to go. Wires are all the same colors the only difference is there’s one extra gray wire that’s a little smaller in diameter than the other gray wire in the harness. I figured that powered the light in the switch since the old switch on the column doesn’t have a light. It turned out I had coiled up and tucked away a brown wire that came from the headlight switch that’s hot when the running lights come on so it was as simple as splicing that gray and brown wire and the light in the switch works perfect. I got a new wiper motor that has the washer pump built in. I hooked everything up and it seems to work almost perfectly. The delay works but it’s kind of weird. Hard to explain but I’m calling it a success for now. The only thing that’s left is getting new door open switches. I bought a set but they stick out too far and don’t let the door close all the way. I’ll have to find the right kind but when I ground them out they work so I know the circuit is good which is what’s most important. That pretty much does it for this thread I think. Thanks so much for all the help guys I couldn’t have done it without you seriously you guys are the best.
The door switches that I have bought in the past were made to self adjust. Close the door on them to get the sleeve to slide. It compensates for variances in the door gaps by always being too tall initially.
Ah, now I feel stupid. Thanks!
Ehh, no sense in feeling stupid. We have to learn something new once in a while. Just check to see if yours look like a self adjusting style before closing the door onto them. I taped a piece of cereal box onto the door to keep from killing the paint while it swings into position.
