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Electrical geniuses needed!!!!

Jake_C_

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both being bad doesn't surprise me at all. The things barely last through warranty. I don't believe your switch is bad, if you get high and low and wash, not sure why mist isn't working, possibly be cause the module controls that, i don't remember if that is so.
Well if they’re that fragile that makes sense. That’s what I figured about the mist. Im going to see if I can get another one. At least it’s halfway working.
 

Jake_C_

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Well it occurred to me that my 1990 gmc vandura would have the same delay module and maybe I could pull it from there and test it on the blazer since I know it works on the van but I can’t even find it. the harness from the switch is the same but it plugs into another harness and the wires go somewhere up under the dash and I can’t find it it’s too crammed in there. Which is a shame because I’d have just kept it for the blazer and swapped them out. Oh well if I can’t find one what works I’ll have to do more hunting in the van to find it. Anyone know if these things are repairable? Also anyone know what this is? 03AC16B2-BC37-43A8-A148-14F5E8A25099.jpeg My first guess is cruise control related which I no longer need.
 

Wes Harden

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Actually any gm car with wiper delay of that era will have the module. Either the vandura didn't have delay, or it malfunctioned and someone eliminated it, or it has the gmt400 style wiper motor with built in delay
 

Jake_C_

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Actually any gm car with wiper delay of that era will have the module. Either the vandura didn't have delay, or it malfunctioned and someone eliminated it, or it has the gmt400 style wiper motor with built in delay
Probably built in delay since the delay works and I can’t find the module. Didn’t even know those existed. Will the gmt400 work on the blazer?
 

Wes Harden

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it might I never really thought to hard on it. It would need a separate washer pump, if you don't already have one on current system. Defiantly will require rewiring maybe some fab work to connect the wiper arm mechanism.
 

Jake_C_

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it might I never really thought to hard on it. It would need a separate washer pump, if you don't already have one on current system. Defiantly will require rewiring maybe some fab work to connect the wiper arm mechanism.
Yeah probably not worth the work, I’ll look for another module.
 
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Jake_C_

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Some pretty surprising news, I’ve gotten every system for the tailgate window working perfectly. The wiring to the switch in the dash was perfect, it only gets power in the run position which surprised me but it should be fine. The key switch in the tailgate was having issues but I had power all the way back to it so I took the switch apart and it’s super simple. A56289E1-F126-4187-8CE3-03BDFE68B00A.jpeg F6123184-EB2A-427D-B560-D0CFCE3AE482.jpeg The little lobe turns left and right with the key and presses the power contact against one of the terminals. One goes up and one goes down.
35E72897-8700-4AD0-AADE-0BC48CB2B0B9.jpeg It gets power at all times which makes sense. I cleaned the contacts and fiddled with it to get it working consistently and I hot glued the wires to the back of the switch because the plastic that would have been there crumbled apart and it’s working perfect now. CDA15621-CC88-4978-A5E2-10B83319EB9C.jpeg The previous owner in his infinite wisdom cut the plug that goes to the motor but I tested it and it works too. Which is weird because it didn’t work at all when I got it. If anyone can locate the female version of this style plug for me I’d appreciate it. C254EDB2-577A-4899-B917-9B16A7BB00CC.jpeg It goes to the window motor. If not I’ll just Hotwire it or something. I took apart one of my delay modules and it’s so simple it seems like it would easy to fix if I knew which component was bad. 9EEDAE0B-C012-42F3-BE35-06FED56BB8BB.jpeg B3E3EFB1-C436-42AA-93EF-A74182AD3547.jpeg
 

Wes Harden

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so the red arrow looks like an open to me hard to say for sure. brush the black stuff of and inspect the circuit. Maybe a drop of solder to bridge if in fact it is broken

InkedB3E3EFB1-C436-42AA-93EF-A74182AD3547_LI.jpg
 

Joel Wilson

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Maybe a cold joint there, nothing on the other side looks smoked. No bulging, no blistered components, no discoloration or anything. Worst case scenario, is that module still available? Mine has a hand crank so I've never had to look for one. Course, I have a soft top now so I don't even really need that...
 

Joel Wilson

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You gotta be close to being able to fire that girl up by now. Keep at it, you'll get there.
 

Jake_C_

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You gotta be close to being able to fire that girl up by now. Keep at it, you'll get there.
Oh it runs and moves, no windshield or door latches or interior so it’s not exactly drivable but yeah. I redid the engine wiring months ago when I finished rebuilding the motor I just put off fixing the interior wiring.
 

Jake_C_

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so the red arrow looks like an open to me hard to say for sure. brush the black stuff of and inspect the circuit. Maybe a drop of solder to bridge if in fact it is broken

View attachment 392132
I cleaned it up and it’s not broken but something is weird there. This is the same component that had the black stuff around the solder on the back side. A423EDF9-20DF-4F91-91C2-A5F7D1991213.jpeg
I took my other module apart and I couldn’t find anything wrong on the board it looks fine.
 

Wes Harden

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Yeah that green fuzzy stuff, corrosion.
Maybe brush away, hit with electronic cleaner and try it.

Component may be bad leaked and caused corrosion.
I have cleaned corrosion from ecm boards and had some success.
 

Blue85

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Chances are that cap is bad. Can you measure capacitance with your DMM? If you have a suitable cap just swap it. Does it have diode check? My memory is fuzzy but I know on mine I either had to replace one of the diodes or it just had a cold solder joint.

In the stalk switch, the delay control is a potentiometer and it can get scratchy/bad. It should be possible to measure the resistance while turning it, if you just identify the right pins.
 

Joel Wilson

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To measure that cap, you are going to have to pull at least one leg to see if its good or bad. Amazon has a 696 piece cap assortment that can be delivered tomorrow for 14 bucks. Just replace it and be done. And you'll have a bunch of spares for whatever other evil genius project you might have.
 

Jake_C_

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My dad used to mess with this kind of thing 20 years ago and if I remember he has an old tool box with an assortment of capacitors, resistors, and such. I’ll see if I can find one and swap it out. If not I’ll buy some more. Thanks guys! @Joel Wilson @Blue85
 

Blue85

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An electrolytic cap 20+ years old is probably not much better than what's on there now. I don't have any 47uF to send you. If you can't find axial, you can use a radial cap by sleeving one lead and running it over the top.
 

Jake_C_

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An electrolytic cap 20+ years old is probably not much better than what's on there now. I don't have any 47uF to send you. If you can't find axial, you can use a radial cap by sleeving one lead and running it over the top.
I actually went ahead and ordered some new ones. I couldn’t find the axial ones (assuming the axial ones are the ones where the leads come out the sides and the radial ones come out the bottom). I guess I got radial ones. I’m out of my depth here if you can’t tell. Sleeving one and running it over the top?
 

Blue85

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Here's a picture I found of somebody cheating radial (leads both on the same end) caps in place of axial (lead at the centerline at each end). I was just suggesting to add some heatshrink or whatever to insulate the long lead. Would probably also work to glue the cap in place. If you got the right cap, don't worry about it. This is bad practice for high frequency stuff, but this board has no high frequency stuff.


SAM_5228.jpg
 
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