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Ello, back with some opinions needed.

Dabba

Dabba

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Posts
1,839
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Location
Long Island, New York
So come spring, i was gonna put a 4 inch ezride lift with 33's on my 86 K5 as well as an exhaust. I've never done much work on cars, but im pretty mechanically inclined, and as it isnt my DD i can afford to take my time. Now ive been thinking and need advice. I didnt wanna go too nuts, but still give her that off road look and sound. (and i do intend to do some mild wheeling, as much as i can living on long island). First off, shes pretty stock except for a new crate engine, which i didnt identify yet, im assuming its a 350 because i know thats a common thing to do, and im pretty sure she has a 700r4 and 208. Im not sure on the 350 thing because i heard with a 700 it would most likley be a 305? Ill look again when it gets warm out, i got to see the numbers on an exposed v6block out of an s10 so i know exactly where they are now.

Anyone my questions are this: First i know im running 3.08s with 10 bolts. If i go from 31 to 33 inch tires i know im gonna need to regear the diffs or shell be a pig. Im thinking 4.11s? Now the whole reason i wanted to go with a 4 inch lift was to not mess with the driveshafts. Do i need to mess with the driveshafts when regearing the diffs? and if i do should i just go with a 6 inch? Will ezhide springs hold up when im beating on her or should i go HD? I also realize finding axles with the gears in them already is another option as well, should i go for that? Any huge pro/con to 4inch vs 6 inch and vice versa or is pretty much appearence?

Also, as far as exhaust.. My truck has no emmisions **** on the engine at all, and in NY she wont pass emmisions. Should i go cheap and just get a glass pack muffler, or should i go all out with the headers, 3 inch tubing and the glass pack. If i did that i probably would hollow out my cat too being im not passing emisions anyway. Will the whole new system really help or is it not worth it? either way i need a muffler and maybe a new y-pipe. The pipe cracked once already and i bent the muffler going onto the beach. Also any suggestions for any type of skidplate for the bottom or is that custom made?

Also, anyone live on long island know any good wheeling spots close? I know of this one spot off 112 and im wondering if anyone checked it out?

Any can anyone give me a guess for body work rates by hour if i can aquire the parts? I need new rockers and some work to the doorjams. Her floors are fine but the rockers and the bottom of the doorjams are bad. She could use some love on the pass side bollow the cap, some minor rust but i dont wanna go nuts. I was thinking of getting the parts from LMC truck they got rockers for 20 bucks each, though the doorjams would need to be custom.

I also need a manual tailgate crank, an interior plastic peice for my door and a wire to hold the tailgate on the drivers side. Anyone know if lmc truck is good and the parts fit or am i gonna have troubles?

Sorry for so much, you guys helped me out soo much when i first came on, but that knowlage lead to more questions haha.. Im prob gonna pay for a full membership here come spring when i really start getting dirty. Thanks guys.!
 
Dabba said:
So come spring, i was gonna put a 4 inch ezride lift with 33's on my 86 K5 as well as an exhaust. I've never done much work on cars, but im pretty mechanically inclined, and as it isnt my DD i can afford to take my time. Now ive been thinking and need advice. I didnt wanna go too nuts, but still give her that off road look and sound. (and i do intend to do some mild wheeling, as much as i can living on long island). First off, shes pretty stock except for a new crate engine, which i didnt identify yet, im assuming its a 350 because i know thats a common thing to do, and im pretty sure she has a 700r4 and 208. Im not sure on the 350 thing because i heard with a 700 it would most likley be a 305? Ill look again when it gets warm out, i got to see the numbers on an exposed v6block out of an s10 so i know exactly where they are now.
Click to expand...

If its an auto it will definitely have a TH700R4/NP208 and if it has a crate motor its likely a 350 (though that's certainly no guarantee).


Dabba said:
Anyone my questions are this: First i know im running 3.08s with 10 bolts. If i go from 31 to 33 inch tires i know im gonna need to regear the diffs or shell be a pig. Im thinking 4.11s? Now the whole reason i wanted to go with a 4 inch lift was to not mess with the driveshafts. Do i need to mess with the driveshafts when regearing the diffs? and if i do should i just go with a 6 inch? Will ezhide springs hold up when im beating on her or should i go HD? I also realize finding axles with the gears in them already is another option as well, should i go for that? Any huge pro/con to 4inch vs 6 inch and vice versa or is pretty much appearence?
Click to expand...

You shouldn't have to do anything with driveshaft with a 4" lift. A 6" lift is much more likely to require driveshaft mods.

IMO 4" lift is plenty of lift for a K5 regardless of tire size. Higher than that and its more show than go. There are plenty of very capable rigs with more lift but I feel that having more tire means accepting less fender.

I fit 33's at stock height with very minimal trimming, with a 4" lift you will likely have very little (if any) fender contact issues.

4.10's are probably a good gear to go with.


Dabba said:
Also, as far as exhaust.. My truck has no emmisions **** on the engine at all, and in NY she wont pass emmisions. Should i go cheap and just get a glass pack muffler, or should i go all out with the headers, 3 inch tubing and the glass pack. If i did that i probably would hollow out my cat too being im not passing emisions anyway. Will the whole new system really help or is it not worth it? either way i need a muffler and maybe a new y-pipe. The pipe cracked once already and i bent the muffler going onto the beach. Also any suggestions for any type of skidplate for the bottom or is that custom made?
Click to expand...

How are you getting the truck around if it doesn't pass emissions?

Regardless, exhaust helps a little but not much on a stock motor. I would spend my money elsewhere.
 
Thank you very much for that quick reply. I got some people that could pass it for me, and it was passed haha. The only reason id hollow out the cat would be to not look like a total asshole when i ask my friend to pass it for me. Though if running a whole system isnt worth it much ill just go for a glass pack and the y-pipe when it blows again. I would also consider a high flow cat but i hear mixxed things. I hear itll pass with it or it wont pass with it, either way it wont so if hollowing out the stock cat would help, fine, if not ill just get the new muffler then. Again thank you for that advice, very helpful.

Edit: When i got the truck it came with no emissions stuff, i didnt rip it off and i quickly found out it would be a royal pain to get it back together. Plus i hear the older vehicles run better without it. What i get for buying sight unseen from jersey, though i did get her for a steal.
 
Most fuel injected vehicles (that are running well) will pass emissions without a catalytic converter.

Your truck is towards the end of carburetors in general (and the last year for K5's) so an '86 K5 is likely one of the hardest to get to pass emissions.

Your truck likely had plenty of emissions stuff so if that's missing it will be a handful to replace.

Old catalytic converters are pretty restrictive, late model ones are very free flowing. Your's is kinda in the middle. Replacing or "hollowing out" the cat may or may not help anything.
 
Yeah shes carbureted, some huge Holly. Must be getting single digits as far as mpg haha. I need to get a air filter cap as well as a bigger filter, gotta go check junk yards for that in the spring. Ill wait on the cat till i hear otherwise, as you said it may or may not help. I just know its pretty useless since she wont pass emmisions anyway so i figure what the hell. I've never hollowed out a cat before so i have no idea what that entails, if it would be better/easier/ not much more money to replace it with a high flow cat, i guess i would. A bit better for the enviroment. Though i think i would like the sound of a hollowed cat + glass pack pipe.
 
I'd say get the 4" ezride springs in the front and 4" drop shackles in rear. (much better from what i hear) Also i'd go with a Detroit locker if you have the money.
 
I bought half the parts you asked about from LMC,plus several others,they fit great.Shipping was quick , And the prices are pretty good.
You can get a lot of stock parts from JC Whitney too(tailgate cable for instance),So far everything I have got from them was good too.
I have never bought from them but I`ve heard good things about RockAuto.They also have good prices.Shop around is the best advice I can give you.
 
Oh yeah DONT go with glass paks ! I HATE mine :mad:,there so loud its hard to talk with the windows UP,and gives me a headache after 20 mins .Plus it just attracts attention from the cops. :eek1:
 
Thanks for the reply guys. Ill have to look around for the lift for the front and rear. All ive looked at and seen so far really is the complete set. So i guess ill have to find a front end and rear end lift seperatly? Also which manufacturer did you get the glass packs from? Cause i understand it thats a general name and several companies made them. The ones i heard sounded just a little more "raw" than a flowmasrer 40 series, which i was looking into also but liked the more "raw" sound of the glasspacks.
 
The ones I have are Cherry Bombs,that the P.O. put on. They also make regular mufflers too.
 
For the front.....Go with the 4". Go with the EZ Rides. Much better ride and if decide you need the HD in the future, you can get the 1 leaf that turns them into HD for 25 bucks. That is what I ended up doing.
for the rear.........If you are not really into wheeling, go with blocks in the rear. Your cheapest and quickest method. The shackle flip kits are the best for ride and flex, but they are not cheap and are very time consuming to install.
You will probably not need driveshaft mods, but you will need to get a set of new brake lines. 2 for the front and one for the rear. I would advise getting lines for a 6" lift, just in case you go bigger later. You can go with the nice stainless ones or there is a number for just rubber ones.

You will also need a new drop arm for your steering box. If you are running your swaybar, you may need a drop kit for that also.
 
Again thanks for the advice. ill look into the shackle flip for the rear, though i dont know much about that yet so ill have to see what it entails. Again im gonna try to do all the work myself. I dont think ill be running my swaybar as i heard i can remove it without an issue and it allows more flex?
 
If you still have original rear springs I advise you to replace them because 21 years of constant abuse, its only a matter of time before they break, not to mention they are guarenteed to have saged an inch or two. I have the EZ-ride 4" lift with all springs, not the cheapest route, but it will last the longest and is probably the best option.

As for the Holley, if its a double pumper its probably too big for the usual crate motor and giving you terrible milage. You probably won't need anything over 650cfm.

As far as 3/4 ton axels, you won't need them for 33"s especially if you do mostly street driving and maybe mild wheeling. But sometimes swapping axels is easier to already have the 4.10 gearing. Its up to you, and it depends on the condition of your current axels, and the condition of any perspective 3/4ton axels.
 
Thanks for the advice. I guess ill just have to look around and see whats available in junk yards. I decided that im just going to go one step at a time and see what i need. Im gonna go 33's and if shes a pig, i regear, if not i wont. If i can find axles with 4.10s ill do it, if not whatever. 2 more questions though. What should i do first? throw 33s on her or do the lift? and if im looking for axles, how do i know which axles are compatable with my truck. Im guessing any k series/burb of the same gen but what else?
 
most all axels will fit your truck from any k-seriers or burban. The exception being that k30 axels have different spring perch spacing. Otherwise K20 axels will be a direct bolt in with exception for the ujoint.
 
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