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Engine bearing job turns into complete disaster

not disagreeing with what you said, just thinking at this point the kid has already thrown away so much bad money, I doubt that he doesn't understand all the hidden cost associated with doing the 383 properly...

if he doesn't do all the other things needed to properly move the torque band to a higher rpm range, the truck will be a dog on the bottom end and he will be more disappointed with it's performance.

sometimes stock is a good thing....
 
wasted wages said:
:haha:
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What about just pre 86 block w/ better flowing al heads i have 882 right now. Already have headers. Wouldn't a different cam but still flat tappet that worked with the better flowing heads get me another 50 hp yet still keep the low end torque. Just to make up for the 20 perecent loss at 6k to 7k elevation. I did 18 sec at 3000 feet in Tucson winter time so density altitude was maybe 4000 feet for 1/4 mile 5000 lbs, so thats approx 160 hp at wheels. I have a bowtie stage 2 700r4, 4.10 gears 33 inch tires.
 
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383 is cool, but is it really necessary? At blazer bash last year one of the rigs had a 383, he basically drank a whole tank of gas wheeling that day, while i still had over 2/3 tank. Are they really that reliable after all the machining to a block. Why do i need to move the torque range to a higher rpm? I have the long tube headers
 
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More cubes, more torque. Generally speaking. Around here at this elevation you need torque.

383's done by a professional builder are not anymore prone to problems than a standard 350.

A pre-86 block is not going to net you any more power or less power than a later one. Other than having to change flex plates if you went with a later block like a L31 vortec or something. Don't get hung up on the block setup.
 
I just like keeping it old school. But when talking engine hp, when they advertise 300 hp, is that no accessories on a stand? Or in the truck with the standard accesories at the flexplate? And then at the wheel for a 700r4/208 10 bolt bfg ko2 tires what is the expected difference in output at the wheels -25%?
 
Your cam selection decides where you're going to make the power at.

Generally speaking people build 383s for more torque
 
Keeping it looking old school I'm assuming you are going after old style valve covers. Because you really can't tell the difference by the blocks unless it was out of the truck. 87 and later have the center bolt style valve covers. Some aftermarket heads have the ability to use either.
 
This engine requires a 400ci weighted harmonic balancer, and late 350ci weighted flexplate/flywheel.
BluePrint Engines recommends a 2000- 2400 rpm stall converter.


The blueprint engine doesn't come with the flexplate and balancer, and you can't use your old one due to it being non weighted.
So there's that cost to add....

Then they recommend a higher stall converter due to the cam profile they use with this engine to produce the power that is advertised.

The engine needs a loose converter to let the rpms raise quickly so the engine will start breathing in the range that the cam profile works in...

If you don't get the engine into the proper RPM range that the cam operates in....it will feel sluggish and have little torque until the rpms climb...

although a stock converter will work, you have the motor out, so why wouldn't you put in the converter the builder spec's out ?
 
Ok, yeah I got a HD 1800 stall right now, works good with the setup I have. It's just wrenching, yeah totally fine with a new balancer/ tq converter/ flexplate, better to have all that fresh anyways when pulling motor. Would that 383 need different headers than what I have now? Will it be hard on a 10 bolt? I have 100k's miles on squarebody suburban and k5 10b's never had issues with stock motors. Isn't there something in between the engine I have now and a 383? And is that 383 compression where you need premium gas, CO gas sucks 85 as regular. Flagstaff regular is 87 and they are at 7k ft why still the 85 in Colorado? Is it not possible to get 300 hp / good torque on pump gas with a 350 / Al heads? Say my motor was still good, how much boost would you get by putting on some better flowing Al heads and non roller cam to match? I think these 882 heads that I have are pretty poor flowing. What would that blueprint 383 make for HP at the rear wheels?
 
Everything comes down to budget, and we don't really know your budget, or how strong your lust for power may or may not be. It's easy to spit ball here and "spend" $5K-$9K of your money to solve problems you don't have, but are we doing you any favors? Probably not.

I agree with Wasted Wages for the most part here. All the high performance stuff is cool, but closer to stock will probably make you happier and keep some money in your bank account. For simplicity sake, stick with 350 cid when looking for a crate. Don't dismiss the later blocks, you can always swap to perimeter valve covers if you hate the center bolt look so much. Crate motors are dyno'd without accessories, or any "front dress", usually open headers, and some dyno guys aim for "optimal" coolant temps in the 135 F range for the money pull.
 
Ok budget 4k max for engine, not including flexplate/balancer/intake/exhaust/tq converter/valve covers. Seems like most of the crates are later blocks, so that fine. Any good local builders in Colorado vs getting a crate motor?
 
My opinion is fairly unpopular. Skip the crate engine. Find a good builder and rebuild your block you have. Spend your money on the parts you want to build the engine YOU want. No crate engine can do that. Skip the factory crate engine, the eBay specials and etc. You will be better money per hp ahead. And better then a LS swap to.
 
As beags86 said above most people build 383's for more torque... it's the longer stroke of the crank that gets the work done....

don't get lost chasing HP numbers...your not building a drag car...

you have a decent gearing / tire size / overdrive trans combo... with the proper converter, the 383 will definitely give you the torque you need to get rolling on the road, and help pull the hills. Off road, I don't see why a 10 bolt wouldn't live with reasonable throttle.... there are a lot of people out there running this exact setup, it not like this is an untested combination...

As far as the 350 and new heads, yeah...if you pull the motor and have a DECENT engine builder, I would even go that route...
just do your homework....ask a lot of questions about the cam selection, heads, etc. before you just start buying random parts....call different cam manufacturer's..tell them about your truck and how you plan to use it.... and then listen to what they suggest.. don't grab the highest lift longest duration bumpstick you can find because you think it will sound cool.... Your engine builder should give a shit about your final setup too... if he doesn't, and tells you" I build motors all the time"... get your stuff and leave.... He should be able to do things like help you select cams, heads, pistons etc. for YOUR particular build.
 
wasted wages said:
As beags86 said above most people build 383's for more torque... it's the longer stroke of the crank that gets the work done....

don't get lost chasing HP numbers...your not building a drag car...

you have a decent gearing / tire size / overdrive trans combo... with the proper converter, the 383 will definitely give you the torque you need to get rolling on the road, and help pull the hills. Off road, I don't see why a 10 bolt wouldn't live with reasonable throttle.... there are a lot of people out there running this exact setup, it not like this is an untested combination...

As far as the 350 and new heads, yeah...if you pull the motor and have a DECENT engine builder, I would even go that route...
just do your homework....ask a lot of questions about the cam selection, heads, etc. before you just start buying random parts....call different cam manufacturer's..tell them about your truck and how you plan to use it.... and then listen to what they suggest.. don't grab the highest lift longest duration bumpstick you can find because you think it will sound cool.... Your engine builder should give a shit about your final setup too... if he doesn't, and tells you" I build motors all the time"... get your stuff and leave.... He should be able to do things like help you select cams, heads, pistons etc. for YOUR particular build.
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Yep. Engine building is fun. Talk to engine builders/machine shops/ post on forums/ call manufacturers. Everyone will help and lend an ear. It's fun to figure it all out. Then get the stuff machined and if your up for it, put it together yourself!
 
toddball said:
Ok, yeah I got a HD 1800 stall right now, works good with the setup I have. It's just wrenching, yeah totally fine with a new balancer/ tq converter/ flexplate, better to have all that fresh anyways when pulling motor. Would that 383 need different headers than what I have now? Will it be hard on a 10 bolt? I have 100k's miles on squarebody suburban and k5 10b's never had issues with stock motors. Isn't there something in between the engine I have now and a 383? And is that 383 compression where you need premium gas, CO gas sucks 85 as regular. Flagstaff regular is 87 and they are at 7k ft why still the 85 in Colorado? Is it not possible to get 300 hp / good torque on pump gas with a 350 / Al heads? Say my motor was still good, how much boost would you get by putting on some better flowing Al heads and non roller cam to match? I think these 882 heads that I have are pretty poor flowing. What would that blueprint 383 make for HP at the rear wheels?
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I'm only picking up bits and pieces here BUT the 882 heads are one of GM's best breathing heads their downfall is if you get them hot they crack.
 
383 has a longer stroke, ie bigger lever more torque. You want old school go with smb 400 same stroke as 383 and a bigger bore.
 
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