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Engine Condition?

I'm telling you chief, you are just never satisfied.
First you have to have just the right color, then you want to get rid of all the rust, then you want all the chrome and emblems correct.
Then the door gaps have to be right.

And now you actually want it to run.............


Just never satisfied...........:dunno::haha:
 
Chief Brody said:
I'll have to get a manual...it's been 27 years since I adjusted valves and that was on a 4 banger...

What will I need...feeler gauges?
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Chevy hydrolic lifters like you have use a "preload" or zero lash. Without going into great detail, you tighten them till you have .000" lash, and then tighten them down a little more. Google, "chevy rocker adjustment for a few good how toos.

jonrpick said:
Avoid the 290hp motor. I have one. Hate it. I'd give more detail but typing on a tablet sucks. :-(
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Im interested to hear why. I have heard lots of good on these motors.

imiceman44 said:
yes but it more work and it's not a bad idea to check your valve adj anyway
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Right. Yes you could do it without ever adjusting the valves or even un bolting the vlave covers. The way to do it (if i remember right...) is to find #1 TDC. Do it, then rotate the crank 90* and do the next cylinder in the firing order and repeat through the whole firing order. So, if you feel like doing it that way would be easier its your choice. One way is not too much more work than the other.
 
y5mgisi said:
Right. Yes you could do it without ever adjusting the valves or even un bolting the vlave covers. The way to do it (if i remember right...) is to find #1 TDC. Do it, then rotate the crank 90* and do the next cylinder in the firing order and repeat through the whole firing order. So, if you feel like doing it that way would be easier its your choice. One way is not too much more work than the other.
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That was my point, the hassle to do it one cylinder at a time equals removing the cover and doing it at once then adjusting the valves, 2 birds in one stone:thumb:
 
Looks kind of clean in there...are these hydraulic?


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Its the lifters that would be hydraulic. Not the rockers, but yes, i think i can safely say that 99% of factory SBC's came with hydraulic lifters. What i (and probably most folks) do is grab the push rods and give them a spin with your thumb and forefinger. They (the ones that are at rest and not on a cam lobe) should spin but not be sloppy. In other words, you do not want any "rattle" or lash in the valve train at all when working with hydraulic lifters.
 
It's a good sign that there isn't any sludge isn't it?
 
Fairly good explanation of how they work and why you want zero lash.




Oil pressure and a check ball make for perfect "lash" as long as the lifter plunger is within all the way bottomed and all the way topped. Im doing a really bad job of explaining this.... But the plunger is within the lifter body. That plunger is where the push rod sits. The plunger can travel up and down within the lifet body something like an 1/8". The goal when adjusting this setup is to tighten the rocker such that the push rod moves the plunger about 1/2 way down its travel. This way, when the oil fills the area behinde the plunger, the valve train is perfectly "tight". The beauty of this setup is that it allows for hundreds of thousands of miles of wear on the motor without having to ever re adjust the rockers.
 
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Yea for sure! Means that there isnt too many miles on it and or that it had regular oil changes. Im guessing probably both.
 
What can you tell me about 333882 heads? I have found that they were made from 1974 to 1979, which matches the engine...this is really getting curious to me...does that mean that this is likely the original engine? at the very least it is either a 1974 or 1975 block I know that...

OK, I know that they aren't anything special, but at least they are "correct" for my year...
 
y5mgisi said:
Im interested to hear why. I have heard lots of good on these motors.
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Still on the tablet, but the answer that I've come up with is that it's a 60's 327/350hp cam in a 350 with lower compression than the 327 had. It was a horsepower cam, not a torque cam. A friend put the same motor in a '79 Firebird and can't even spin the tires. But it's an even worse truck motor.

I think 14" is about max on intake vacuum. Low-end torque is awful. Gas mileage drops considerably compared with stock.

I will need to re-cam mine just to make it run like a truck motor. I've sunk too much money into it just to turn around and replace it.

Find the GM part number and Google it. I found many threads about it on various forums. I believe the 3rd Gen forum had one that went into detail.

My advice: buy the 260hp base motor. Should be much more suitable in just about anything.

;-)
 
Thats the cleanest SBC Ive probably ever seen.

If the leakdown proves good, just run the thing.

And 882s are a regular SBC head from the 70's, good for a stockish engine I guess. I wouldnt dump a ton of money into them at the machine shop though.
 
Yes...it was painted over...it says MEXICO....it's a GM Goodwrench Crate Motor....
 
The PO told me it had a #2 Crate motor in it...

Why did the paint peel off so fast?

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The piant problem was im sure due to the fact that who ever recived the motor didnt bother to clean it before spraying it. They just sprayed over the oils and coolant used in the engine build process.
 
I have no idea what the #2 crate engine means, But I would guess the paint was from lack of prep. Its pretty common for it to flake and peel off though.
 
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