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engine flush

thezentree

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is there any way to flush the engine block without rebuilding the damn thing? after friday's little fiasco, my trucks engine oil is FILTHY, and i wanna get as much crap outta the block as possible. filthy as in, i changed my oil 500 miles ago, and its now the color of chocolate syrup. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Do you know the internal condition of your engine? Is there ANY sludge build-up?? All you can really do is keep changing the oil. There are "engine flush" products available, but all they really are is kerosene. If there is any sludge/carbon build up, this stuff WILL loosen it up and drop it directly in the oil pan and plug the oil pump pick up. I won't use that stuff. But thats all I know of.
 
I've heard of guys adding a quart of diesel fuel to the oil, running it for a short period of time, then draining it, changing the filter. And start all over with new oil & filter
 
its probably got a ton of crap in there, as the throttle body was filthy when we pulled the airbox off. those kerosene/diesel fuel ideas sound like it MIGHT work, but im gonna make some calls to some mechanic friends before i go doin stuff like that.

but theres no pressure flush sorta thing? i mean, 30 quarts of oil for flushing the thing is expensive, but its pocket change compared to a new engine.
 
[ QUOTE ]
the throttle body was filthy when we pulled the airbox off.

[/ QUOTE ]
OK, I gotta ask... What happened? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
went wheelin on friday afternoon and sucked a lot of water through the engine /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif more here
 
This is what my College engine professor suggested when I asked him:

Before your next oil change (as in right before), put in 1 qt of tranny fluid and let the engine run about an hour and then go ahead with the change. Make sure you maintain the correct oil level! Don't just throw a quart in.

If you don't want to do that, you could always put in a half qt of tranny fluid during the next oil change (of course your putting in a half qt less engine oil). Run the normal 3000 miles to the next oil change.

Keep in mind that tranny fluid is a high detergent oil BUT it does not have the same weight as engine oil, so don't be too hard on the motor during this time.
 
if you had oil pan off and intake off then id go for kerosene or diesel flush and then follow up weith the ATF flush /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
what, just pour it down the filler neck with the truck on and let it drain out the oil pan? sounds seize-erific /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

if the truck was off, i dont see the ATF or kerosene cycling thru the block. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
If you think water is in that oil DON'T run it. Leave it sit over night. Without starting the motor start to drain the oil. If it has water in it it will seperate and be at the botom of the pan right where the oil pickup is. If you confirm water in it I would serously think about dropping the oil pan and pulling the valve cover and make sure that all the water is out. Water in the oil can lock up the oil pump. I have seen it happen. When the pump locked it sheared the roll pin on the distributer.
 
theres no water in the oil, but i think theres a lot of grit in my engine from the looks of the throttle body /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Some autoparts stores have quart cans of "motor flush". Its just a solvent. You add 1 quart, idle the engine for 10min, drain and fill fresh oil/filter.

The trans fluid probably does the same thing. Dont know about driving around town like that.

Heck, throw in some good ol Marvel Mystery Oil and cruze it for awhile. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
heres today's plan:
1. look at the K5 up the road
2. call around about them thar engine flush chemicals
3. maybe buy some chemicals
4. change oil/filter, add some restore? seems to me if that grit scored the cylinder walls, some restore cant hurt can it?

that auto parts store chemical sounds good, cause its made for doing that. any idea what its called?
 
Stuff I have used is called "Motor Flush"

I remember some guy in line one day with 5 quarts of the stuff. He was going to do a complete oil change with it /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

There is the possibility, as stated above, that it can loosten up big stuff that may plug the pump filter. I have never run into this.
 
i reckon i could just watch the oil pressure gauge, if it drops, then kill the engine. just dont want to have to drop the pan - the front diff has to come out with it. oh Lord, what have i done to deserve IFS....

anyway, that K5 up the road - rust bucket 305 TBI/ NP208 with a dented and leaking rear diff cover. for $2500. ill pass, thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
From reading your stuck post it sounds like you sucked a bunch of water, you got lucky and got it started but now have a knock? If it tried to turn over and did not budge you probley tweaked a rod. It doesn't take much water to do that and your starter has a enough torque to bend a rod. Save the money and don't buy any motor flush or Restore. Some of the engine oil change places and good repair shops have a system that cleans out you engine oil system. Its made by Snap On, another is made by Motor Vac. They drain your oil out, hook up the machine and purge out all of the remaining oil. The machine does two static flushes,engine not running, and two dynamic flushes, engine running then purges out all of the cleaning oil. This machine uses two filters one at two microns and one at three microns. It will filter the flyshit out of pepper. I have seen the Snap on unit demonstrated at a trade show and the results are amazing. No smoke and mirrors, no flase promises. It will probley cost you about 100.00 but whats the cost of a new engine. How much have you drove this rig since this happened? Do you think your engine bearings are ok? If there is any grit in the pan the answer is no. Remove your oil filter and cut it in half. Use some grease on the blade to catch the metal shavings. Pull the filter element out and open the pleats and if you see metal or bearing material or grit start saving big dollars cause that motor is toast.
 
[darn], stop talkin like that /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

yea, that pressure flush is what im lookin for. its been driven probably 50 - 60 miles since its been cranked. had to get it home. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Well I figured you wanted the truth, cut the filter in half and find out. If all looks well the find someone to flush the motor. I did this once don't feel alone.
 
well, they say sometimes the truth hurts. anyway the knock was there before, its just a bit more pronounced now. you think i really bent a rod? the engine runs smoothly right now (save for that knock), doesnt seem like anythings off balance, and its not misfiring. ...anyway, i was just thinkin about it, figured i'd mention it
 
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