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Engine grimmlins back! New Video inside.

78Suburban

78Suburban

1/2 ton status
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Well, I don't know how many of you remember the rocker stud replacement thread, and how I had such horrible performance and rediuclously loose valves. After adjusting them, replacing the halfway sheared stud, and the bent push rod, It ran good for about 2 hours of wheeling. It got progressively worse. Now I try to drive it, and it has a hickup through the carb, bad backfiring out the exhaust. All around missing. Here's a video of it idling, I may go get a video of it driving after supper. What do yall think? wiped out cam lobe? I got screwed by a ck5er :waytogo: I should do the itrader thing, but he'll just return the favor to me I'm sure :eek1:

 
Here's a video of my attempting to drive. Who wants to bet its a few wiped out camshaft lobes?

 
zeroz400 said:
Put some new plugs in. You sure your ignition system is all good?
Click to expand...

I've replaced the plugs 3 times. Tried .035, .040, .045 gaps, and two different, common heat ranges. All AC delco plugs. The plugs that came in the motor when I bought it were rusted on the electrods, but the metal parts that stuck out of the motor had been painted with silver testors model paint..WTF :what: :screwy:
 
Just making sure... are you sure you're firing order is correct? To me it seems like an ignition problem
 
steve_kibbe said:
Have you cleaned the gas tank, new fuel filter?
Click to expand...

The valves were so loose that they had sheared 2 studs nearyly in half and from the moment I cranked it it was backfiring and missing. There was also violent clacking under the valve covers, but being the unsuspecting noob, I brushed it off, thinking certianly nothing was wrong internally. I don't think that was from bad gas. Yes I've tried 3 carbs, rebuilt my edelbrock once, tried 2 hei distributors, 3 sets of plug wires, 3 sets of plugs, numberus timing settings. The valve cover thread really told the story, and I thought the problem was solved, but now its running poorly again. I don't know if its lifters, timing chain, camshaft, valves, or what.............................But I paid $350 for the motor, have easily dumped over $100 more into it, dumped enough countless hours into it that I could no question have just worked all that time and made enough money to drop in a crate motor :mad: I've about had it playing with this motor... I'm about 99% sure I'm just gonna start looking around untill I find a good motor, that I can hear run/ drive around.
 
unclematty said:
Dude, are yousure that it was someone elses fault?:confused:
Click to expand...

The only way its not is if the motor magically died on the the back of the truck.. Because for a fact it ran horribly the moment I fired it up, and has ever since, and no its no basic tuning/ timing issue, believe me... I really think I got took because I seemed like a stupid noob :mad: I honestly can't think of any other option.. Maybe the motor was revved way up right before it was pulled out of his truck, for kicks and giggles, and that's what killed it? That's all I can think of that would make it even possible that it was running good to the sellers knowledge.
 
I mentioned the fuel filter because you said the problem is getting worse, they don't clean themselves. Why don't you pull the cam out to see if its bad. Are the rocker arms to tight?

I know who you got the motor from, and I have, and will continue to do business with him. He's got to be one of the best guys I have ever delt with, he's not the type to go red line a motor before he sells it, like you mentioned.
 
If it was good when he sold it, can you explain why there was a violent clacking and backfiring the first time I fired it up?
 
I really don't want to get involved with all the Drama here, but this engine had, and possibly still does have serious mechanical issues that couldn't possibly have been missed by a PO.

I have absolutely no doubt that the PO is probally a great guy, that isn't the debate here. But, there is an issue with the engine, and if I have my facts straight, it appears that the PO has tried to wash his hands of it.

If 78Burb had only put 50 bucks down on the engine, then yeah, I can understand the sold as is where is mentality, but if he paid 350 like I've been told, then I'd be expecting a good engine as well.
 
Well the sound aint the best in the video but it definately sounds like your not firing on all cylinders. Are the symptoms the same as last time? Before i thought you couldnt rev it up cuz it would cut out, right? Seems like you can drive and it can handle some load.

Do you have a tach? Atleast one you could borrow use something? Get one however and do this; remove each plug wire one at a time, record how much the rpm drops when you remove the wire. Put it back on and go to the next one and so on.

When your done with all this you should have a nice table and start analyzing it. What cylinders made the least difference in rpm drop? Those are your culprits. Then start checking them for spark, compression and not like you havnt done it before, pop your valve cover see if thats giving you trouble again.

Try this link too, http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/a/aa112401a.htm That should keep you busy and hopefully find a problem or two :doah:

Not to sure on this one but your idle sounds a bit high as well.
 
I just saw him viewing this thread... whats kinda funny is..back when I was having my first engine troubles, he never once replied to any of the threads (that was like 4 months ago) :crazy: I'm not the only one who has wondered about this :confused: .....oh well, I'm just gonna start looking for a new motor
 
^^ Get to work dude!! You gotta learn the hard way to work on old junk! Ive been in the same process for a 1.5 years. You need to diagnose your problem, you have to rule out every possibilty till you find your problem. Why bother looking for a new motor? Isnt the compression ok on that motor? Rebuild the topend if you just want to throw money at it.

Get going and post your results!
 
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