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engine placement in frame relative to firewall *PICTURES*

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BranndonC

3/4 ton status
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Mar 18, 2002
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Anaheim, Ca
first heres an idea of what it might look like mounted, a rough idea. I dont want to bolt it down and come to find out i did it wrong. Is it as simple as bolting it where it *looks* to fit the best? I know the upper mount hole should be even with the top frame rail, thats about all i know. does this look like a good position to mount it? what all do i need to take into concideration?
CIMG0269%20%28Medium%29.JPG

CIMG0271%20%28Medium%29.JPG

CIMG0270%20%28Medium%29.JPG
 
Don't try and mount the engine without the rest of the drivetrain connected. You need to know what angle it needs to be at.
 
i dont have my doubler kit yet, are you telling me I should get my doubler kit before i install the engine mounts?
 
thought it was a caddy from the dist but wasn't sure...


like was said earlier, if your fabbing the mounts up you should do it with the tranny bolted to it so you won't have to deal with shimming later.

I have no clue what caddy does with their sensors but the one on the left resembles a knock sensor... can't really tell. I don't no. its a caddy... im clueless.
 
some advice.,...

From what I have read on other caddy swaps,most of them put the motor and tranny in,and bolted the tranny mount into the crossmember using the stock TH400 mount locating holes in the frame(but some arent drilled factory)--and they center the fan blade in the shroud,and the only problem areas are the drivers side head sometimes hits the seam on the firewall,and the oil filter might hit the front crossmember(can be solved by beating the seam flat with a BFH and the crossmember can be trimmed to miss the oil filter,or you can get a 425 oil filter adaper that has an angle to it that allows the filter to fit without clearance problems,or simply use a smaller oil filter...)

What are you going to use for mounts??--flat plates bolted to the stock mount pad locations,like the "Chevrollac" guy used??--or a custom "hoop" made of pipe or tubing??--and did you have to use an eldorado pan,or will the "front sump" one used on RWD caddys miss the front axle and other stuff in a GM 4X4??...After looking at my 76 500,I'd say that switch might be an oil pressure sender,I'm not sure...I'd go to the websites that deal with the caddy swaps more,and ask for opinions there--the best person to ask is one who's "Been There".. www.500cid.com and look under "Chevrolac" on google,it leads you to a "Victimizer Racing" website with several good pitures on his 2wd conversion to a 500,many things apply to the 4x4's too....:crazy:
 
custom tube mounts, something like this

--o........o--
....\____/
(ignor the periods)
got it mostally made, the tranny is mounted, but i have no lower crossmember, i was thinking of making one of those too.
 
Branndon,I have no exp. with what your doing but I would agree that establishing where the trans will be mounted is key.Then you can go from there.

Take into consideration your clearance for the rad and electric fans in relation to the alt,P/S pump,pullys,etc.

You'll be having custom driveshafts made so that's not a big deal.

Consider where the T/C shifter will have to come through the floor as this will effect how far forward you may have to move the trans.Don't know if your doing a doubler or not.

The fact that you doing the custom eng. mounts will give you some room to play with.

As suggested if you can utilize the factory trans mounting holes in the framerails,do that.If you have firewall clearance issues with the factory mount holes,move things forward just enough to resolve those issues.

CIMG0270 (Medium).JPG
 
here is how i did mine, keep in mind i wanted mine as far back & as low as possible for the cog.

bolted empty block & empty tranny together. lowered in k5 & mounted stock crossmember. used floor jack to hold tranny crossmember against frame. beat sesam in engine compartment flat. pushed engine back till it touched firewall then that is were i mounted it. drilled new holoes for 400 crossmember & mounted doubler to tranny. lowered front of engine till doubler was pinned against floor board. built engine mounts. pulled engine beat firewall more & beat floor board up for doubler clearance.

mine is a trail only rig. i had to make a custom set of headers out of a set of BBC ones. my t-case shifter didn't line up w/ factory hole, it was futher back. so was t-400 crossmember. i'll post some pics in a minute after i upload them.
 
sweet, thanks alot, i 'll start playin with all that today, i guess it looks like i'll be ordering my doubler kit before I can actually afford it... :mad:
 
BobK said:
Branndon,I have no exp. with what your doing but I would agree that establishing where the trans will be mounted is key.Then you can go from there.

Take into consideration your clearance for the rad and electric fans in relation to the alt,P/S pump,pullys,etc.

You'll be having custom driveshafts made so that's not a big deal.

Consider where the T/C shifter will have to come through the floor as this will effect how far forward you may have to move the trans.Don't know if your doing a doubler or not.

The fact that you doing the custom eng. mounts will give you some room to play with.

As suggested if you can utilize the factory trans mounting holes in the framerails,do that.If you have firewall clearance issues with the factory mount holes,move things forward just enough to resolve those issues.
Click to expand...

the thing on the left, might it be a heater hose connection?
 
the large nipple on the back of the pass side head is for heater hose connection, i deleted that one on mine for more room.
 
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