Wasatch K5
1/2 ton status
nsx,
I stand by my statement. In your first post you said you had a "1987 Blazer with a 350 TBI engine".
1987 Blazers with a 350 TBI engine had 210 hp. The base engine was a 305. The 305 TBI was 170 HP.
Before you order parts you will need to make certain which engine you have.
Personally, I wouldn't rebuild the 305. The 350 is a better and more powerful engine. As I said in my previous post I think I'd look for a used engine, and it would be a 350.
I see a lot of ads for vehicles with "rebuilt" engines, transmissions, etc. The problem is that the word "rebuilt" means different things to different people. There is no standard of quality. It's the same thing the the word "restored".
You can't quantify exactly what a "quality" rebuild will cost without knowing the exact condition of the various internal parts. A "quality" rebuild would include re-sizing the connecting rods and installing new rod bolts. It would also include align honing (or potentially align boring) the block. Furthermore a "quality" rebuild would include all high quality parts, including high quality gaskets. The assembly process would include checking and verifying clearances. Assembling components to the correct torque in the proper sequence.
I'm a big fan of OEM parts, and especially so of OEM sheet metal. I don't like the cheap as possible approach, and refuse to do it. By and large you get what you pay for.
If you want to build an engine using the cheapest possible parts, and the cheapest possible machine shop; go for it.
Please let us know how it turns out.
I stand by my statement. In your first post you said you had a "1987 Blazer with a 350 TBI engine".
1987 Blazers with a 350 TBI engine had 210 hp. The base engine was a 305. The 305 TBI was 170 HP.
Before you order parts you will need to make certain which engine you have.
Personally, I wouldn't rebuild the 305. The 350 is a better and more powerful engine. As I said in my previous post I think I'd look for a used engine, and it would be a 350.
I see a lot of ads for vehicles with "rebuilt" engines, transmissions, etc. The problem is that the word "rebuilt" means different things to different people. There is no standard of quality. It's the same thing the the word "restored".
You can't quantify exactly what a "quality" rebuild will cost without knowing the exact condition of the various internal parts. A "quality" rebuild would include re-sizing the connecting rods and installing new rod bolts. It would also include align honing (or potentially align boring) the block. Furthermore a "quality" rebuild would include all high quality parts, including high quality gaskets. The assembly process would include checking and verifying clearances. Assembling components to the correct torque in the proper sequence.
I'm a big fan of OEM parts, and especially so of OEM sheet metal. I don't like the cheap as possible approach, and refuse to do it. By and large you get what you pay for.
If you want to build an engine using the cheapest possible parts, and the cheapest possible machine shop; go for it.
Please let us know how it turns out.