Whats up guys having trouble breaking engine free its my 88 burb been sitting for two years drained all fluids and been sitting since tried to start it and wont turn engine seized tried turning crank and flywheel with no luck removed all plugs and spayed p blast in all cylinders yesterday and today but still wont budge any suggestions? Thanks
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Engine seized need opinions on breaking free?
- Thread starter JUNIOR-K5
- Start date
If it is a stick shift drag it behind another truck and dump the clutch.
If WD40, PB Blaster or just about anything in the cylinders does not work then your are kind of out of choices.
If WD40, PB Blaster or just about anything in the cylinders does not work then your are kind of out of choices.
Two things to remember--dont force it too hard to turn,or you can crack a ring or do more damage ,let it soak up good for as long as it takes..
Turning the engine over by the balancer bolt often snaps the bolt off in the crank--we had better luck freeing up stuck engines at the junkyard by using a large screwdriver or pry bar on the flywheel teeth ,you get more leverage with the large diameter wheel...sometimes turning it "backwards" works better because any crud trapped between the pistons and heads can stop it from wanting to turn in the normal direction of rotation..once you get it to move backwards you can add more penetrant and keep rocking it..if it seems to turn free ,then jam up,a valve is probably rusted in the guide,and forcing it will either bend a pushrod, or worse...
We had a few old Packards that were seized and the boss wanted us to get them running again,they ran when they were towed in ,but they sat at least a decade,and the engines were bound up good..we soaked them with Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes,and when that failed,the boss decided to hook up the heater hoses from our torch truck to the Packard's engine and he let it run a good half hour--we saw the temp gauge on its dash actually went up to the center,and we tried turning it with a pry bar on the flywheel and it broke free and spun over,and after we made a few full revolutions and felt nothing was binding,we were able to get it started with the battery by jumping it with the torch truck...and it ran great after awhile..
I know a guy who seized a straight six in a 70 Nova one night--drove it home with no coolant after a minor collision with a tree in a friends yard leaving a party,because he had a few beers in him,and didn't want to get caught!...next day it refused to turn with the starter--he said the exhaust manifold was orange when he got home 8 miles away,and to shut the car off,he had to take the air cleaner off (got his hands singed good doing it too)--and he "smothered" it with a rag!..
He said it kept running and dieseling,even with the key off!.
....we all figured he cooked it so bad it was junk--but he got it to turn over by putting a hydraulic bottle jack against the flywheel teeth,and jacked up on it,until it moved!..got it to to make a few full turns,and it did finally start,but it never had good oil pressure after that,and smoked some after he got it going again..he drove it all winter though,just kept adding oil every 300 miles or so...shows how tough an old chevy six can be!..
Turning the engine over by the balancer bolt often snaps the bolt off in the crank--we had better luck freeing up stuck engines at the junkyard by using a large screwdriver or pry bar on the flywheel teeth ,you get more leverage with the large diameter wheel...sometimes turning it "backwards" works better because any crud trapped between the pistons and heads can stop it from wanting to turn in the normal direction of rotation..once you get it to move backwards you can add more penetrant and keep rocking it..if it seems to turn free ,then jam up,a valve is probably rusted in the guide,and forcing it will either bend a pushrod, or worse...
We had a few old Packards that were seized and the boss wanted us to get them running again,they ran when they were towed in ,but they sat at least a decade,and the engines were bound up good..we soaked them with Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes,and when that failed,the boss decided to hook up the heater hoses from our torch truck to the Packard's engine and he let it run a good half hour--we saw the temp gauge on its dash actually went up to the center,and we tried turning it with a pry bar on the flywheel and it broke free and spun over,and after we made a few full revolutions and felt nothing was binding,we were able to get it started with the battery by jumping it with the torch truck...and it ran great after awhile..
I know a guy who seized a straight six in a 70 Nova one night--drove it home with no coolant after a minor collision with a tree in a friends yard leaving a party,because he had a few beers in him,and didn't want to get caught!...next day it refused to turn with the starter--he said the exhaust manifold was orange when he got home 8 miles away,and to shut the car off,he had to take the air cleaner off (got his hands singed good doing it too)--and he "smothered" it with a rag!..
He said it kept running and dieseling,even with the key off!.
....we all figured he cooked it so bad it was junk--but he got it to turn over by putting a hydraulic bottle jack against the flywheel teeth,and jacked up on it,until it moved!..got it to to make a few full turns,and it did finally start,but it never had good oil pressure after that,and smoked some after he got it going again..he drove it all winter though,just kept adding oil every 300 miles or so...shows how tough an old chevy six can be!..
Make sure you get enough of whatever in cylinders so it fills the cylinder. No use freeing up only half?
Leave plugs out when trying to turn over cylinder full of fluid. Full charged Batt and tap, tap, tap... good luck!
Leave plugs out when trying to turn over cylinder full of fluid. Full charged Batt and tap, tap, tap... good luck!
Look by the penetrating oils.
Last edited:
Marvel Mystery Oil (and some acetone if you wish) is the next best thing...some claim ATF or diesel fuel works well too...anything like Liquid Wrench is basically kerosene with some light oil mixed in,that would work too...I have never used the "Deep Creep" stuff,but have read many success stories about it online..
Another good product thats highly reccomended is "Evapo-Rust",its non toxic ,non corrosive,and has no acids or bases in it,and biodegradable,but I've only seen it advertised in Hemmings magazine,not sure where you might get some locally..some guys I know used it to de-rust a badly rusted engine from a tractor that was left out to the weather upside down with no oil pan on it,it looked like new when it was pulled out of the soak tank after a few days time..
The only info I have is the stuff is sold by Orison Marketing L.L.C. --the website is www.orisonllc.com,and the phone # is 1-800-460-2403...this info is from an old hemmings magazine,so I'm not sure if its "current"..
Another good product thats highly reccomended is "Evapo-Rust",its non toxic ,non corrosive,and has no acids or bases in it,and biodegradable,but I've only seen it advertised in Hemmings magazine,not sure where you might get some locally..some guys I know used it to de-rust a badly rusted engine from a tractor that was left out to the weather upside down with no oil pan on it,it looked like new when it was pulled out of the soak tank after a few days time..
The only info I have is the stuff is sold by Orison Marketing L.L.C. --the website is www.orisonllc.com,and the phone # is 1-800-460-2403...this info is from an old hemmings magazine,so I'm not sure if its "current"..
I dont know of one parts store here that doesn't have
Marvel Mystery Oil!....
Many department stores and hardware stores carry it here too...there HAS to be at least one place in southern california that has it...Autozone ,Pep Boys,Benny's,NAPA and all the jobber stores have it around here..probably Walmart and Tractor Supply too..
I did look up that website for Evapo-Rust--its gone ballistic in price!....too expensive for the average joe to use in my opinion now..does work well though..
Marvel Mystery Oil!..
..Many department stores and hardware stores carry it here too...there HAS to be at least one place in southern california that has it...Autozone ,Pep Boys,Benny's,NAPA and all the jobber stores have it around here..probably Walmart and Tractor Supply too..
I did look up that website for Evapo-Rust--its gone ballistic in price!..
..too expensive for the average joe to use in my opinion now..does work well though..
Oreilly's has it it stock, it is a stocking item, all of them talked about are.
What's funny was I happened to be standing in O'Reilly High Dollar Auto Parts waiting on this weeks new cashier when I read that the OP couldn't find Deep Creep so I walked over to the shelf and snapped the picture. You just have to look on the right shelf, close to the "PB Blaster" (another good product).
79HeavyChevy
1/2 ton status
I thought that looked like an O'reillys shelf....
