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Engine seized need opinions on breaking free?
- Thread starter JUNIOR-K5
- Start date
wasted wages
1 ton status
apple cider vinegar...... dissolves rust.... just sayin..
Think I'm crazy ?? try it... pour some in a cup and throw in a few rusty bolts...let it sit a day...rust will brush right off..
MMO and acetone works well also...
I would fill the cylinders with vinegar and screw the plugs in and let it sit overnight... use a shop vac and a piece of tubing to suck it out the next day (or blow it out with an air hose )... then pour diesel fuel in the cylinders and let that sit overnight.... pull the plugs and start to rock the motor with the flywheel/screwdriver method.... once you can move it a full revolution...fill the cylinders again spin it with the starter ( plugs out ) keep the cylinders wet with spray oil/ MMO etc as you spin it over...
good luck !!
Think I'm crazy ?? try it... pour some in a cup and throw in a few rusty bolts...let it sit a day...rust will brush right off..
MMO and acetone works well also...
I would fill the cylinders with vinegar and screw the plugs in and let it sit overnight... use a shop vac and a piece of tubing to suck it out the next day (or blow it out with an air hose )... then pour diesel fuel in the cylinders and let that sit overnight.... pull the plugs and start to rock the motor with the flywheel/screwdriver method.... once you can move it a full revolution...fill the cylinders again spin it with the starter ( plugs out ) keep the cylinders wet with spray oil/ MMO etc as you spin it over...
good luck !!
Yeah the big screwdriver or pry bar on flywheel starter teeth is a good way to nudge it back and forth to free up! 
I used to use a product called Break Free for this very reason. I used to buy and restore old GMC military trucks, 135's and 211's with the 4 speed auto. I bought many that wouldn't turn because they had sat a long time. Pored Break Free down the cylinders and let sit a week. They always turned over for me. I know this product was often used in the firearm industry and you could get it in gallons. Maybe only special order now. I will google and see if it's still available. I learned about it from a guy in the military motor pool who told me that's all they used for stuck engines.
Here is what I found. http://www.break-free.com/?location=/products/index.asp
It doesn't say penetrate lubricant but I believe this is the one I used. You could probably contact them about your issue. I never had one motor not release from being stuck. I would also suggest you try and fog the lower crank with a spray can of this stuff because you drained the oil and I bet it's rusty below the piston too.
Here is what I found. http://www.break-free.com/?location=/products/index.asp
It doesn't say penetrate lubricant but I believe this is the one I used. You could probably contact them about your issue. I never had one motor not release from being stuck. I would also suggest you try and fog the lower crank with a spray can of this stuff because you drained the oil and I bet it's rusty below the piston too.
Usually enough of the penetrant you put in the cylinders will bleed by the rings enough to lube the bottom of the cylinders enough..we never bothered trying to put oil on the bottom end,but we did rig up a screwdriver in a drill to prime the oil pump on a few engines (by pulling the distributor)...
One engine that our boss wanted to use in a personal car he was restoring (the Packard I told about having the heater hoses connected to the torch truck),he went to great lengths to hook up a oil line to the engine by using the oil gauge sending unit hole as an "in" port,and he forced oil into the engine with a grease gun to ensure the bearings had a good chance of being fully lubed before we tried starting it--he used an empty grease cartridge and filled it with oil,and the hose on the gun screwed right into the oil sender port,they were both 1/8" pipe thread!.
...I thought it was not nessasary,but he was the boss!..
..
One engine that our boss wanted to use in a personal car he was restoring (the Packard I told about having the heater hoses connected to the torch truck),he went to great lengths to hook up a oil line to the engine by using the oil gauge sending unit hole as an "in" port,and he forced oil into the engine with a grease gun to ensure the bearings had a good chance of being fully lubed before we tried starting it--he used an empty grease cartridge and filled it with oil,and the hose on the gun screwed right into the oil sender port,they were both 1/8" pipe thread!.
...I thought it was not nessasary,but he was the boss!..
..
didn't read any of this but I'll say this.. Deep Creep, Kroil,, PB, ATF & acetone, etc, it's about all the same... I kinda chuckle when I hear someone touting one as superior to the others...
being a boat guy, pretty sure I see more rust than most... I've used all of em, ton's......
none work any better than any other...
just whatever somebodies high on at the time.. first it was PB, than Kroil, yada, yada...
being a boat guy, pretty sure I see more rust than most... I've used all of em, ton's......
none work any better than any other...
just whatever somebodies high on at the time.. first it was PB, than Kroil, yada, yada...I used to think the same thing, and always bought the cheap store brand stuff. No doubt PB is great stuff on rusty nuts, but the next time you are cleaning a head, piston, throttle body or anything with carbon build up, get a can of B-12 or PB Blaster and a can of Deep Creep and give each a few minutes to soak in good before you start scrubbing. The proof is in the pudding, I've converted several die hard old timers.didn't read any of this but I'll say this.. Deep Creep, Kroil,, PB, ATF & acetone, etc, it's about all the same... I kinda chuckle when I hear someone touting one as superior to the others...
being a boat guy, pretty sure I see more rust than most... I've used all of em, ton's......
none work any better than any other...
dude, I was using deep creep like 15 yr's ago, I'm a big proponent of it.. I use it all the time on Merc throttle bodies that you can't use carb cleaner on, and was one of the first in here hawking it a LONG time ago..... that and Kroil are all I've used for the last 6, 7 yr's probably at my current marina... kinda depends on what your biz likes to buy/carry... and I sell/use CASES of SeaFoam a yr too...
but they all work about the same when it comes to freeing rusty cr@p... trust me, I don't need "converting", I've been doing this sh*t forever and know what works and what's the current hype..... last yr it was atf and acetone, 3 yr's ago it was Kroil, 6 yr's ago it was Deep Creep, 10 yr's ago PB, rinse, repeat..
but they all work about the same when it comes to freeing rusty cr@p... trust me, I don't need "converting", I've been doing this sh*t forever and know what works and what's the current hype..... last yr it was atf and acetone, 3 yr's ago it was Kroil, 6 yr's ago it was Deep Creep, 10 yr's ago PB, rinse, repeat..
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Excuse Me! I don't know you, and didn't realize I was stepping the toes of the CK5 god.
Just take a few deep breaths
and relax, it's only the internet.I'll unsubscribe to the thread, I'm out.
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whatever dude... just letting ya know I'm quite experienced with that sh*t and don't need schooling on it... wouldn't have made the original comment if I wasn't..
wasted wages
1 ton status
Ya'll lighten up...... it's a discussion about spray lube for god sake....
We all know beaver oil is the best "penetrating" lube there is, but it's hard to find in copious amounts and I hope it wouldn't be wasted pouring it into the holes of some old rusty small block.......
and besides,,,, I can piss further than all of ya'll fockers.......................
We all know beaver oil is the best "penetrating" lube there is, but it's hard to find in copious amounts and I hope it wouldn't be wasted pouring it into the holes of some old rusty small block.......
and besides,,,, I can piss further than all of ya'll fockers.......................
it's all about the accuracy... you'll take an eye out with thing.... 
black dawg
1/2 ton status
For a long time I was mixing atf and acetone to use as penetrating oil, and then started using just atf. I personally think the straight atf works best, especially if it is something you are going to have to heat.
back in the day when we would use Marvel to fog motors out, we would use ATF in a pinch if we ran out... holy smoke cloud! 
miss those days, fogging mpfi's is no fun, cuz it's basically like running a bit of 2-stroke thru em, due to the IAC's and injectors, they don't smoke....... carbed motors you'd dump a qrt of marvel down em till you smoked out the whole marina and just about stalled it...
no penetrating oil's gonna help ya here...
miss those days, fogging mpfi's is no fun, cuz it's basically like running a bit of 2-stroke thru em, due to the IAC's and injectors, they don't smoke....... carbed motors you'd dump a qrt of marvel down em till you smoked out the whole marina and just about stalled it...
no penetrating oil's gonna help ya here...
wasted wages
1 ton status
I have worked around some marine refrigeration ( shrimp boats etc ) and yeah,, salt corrosion is no joke... I have used stuff called Corrosion X before...
http://www.corrosionx.com/
We used it a lot to spray the crap out of electronic parts to help them survive a little bit longer... but around salt water... time is your enemy...
BTW... good luck with those head bolts....
For you guys that play with RC cars and trucks,, this stuff is fantastic.. Hands down the best stuff you can use if you play in the water, snow and mud..
I race nitro RC boats and I can tell ya'... radio glitches at over 100 mph are no joke... they can turn a 3000.00 dollar boat into a pile of scrap wood and fiberglass in a heartbeat.
Worse than that, a glitch can cause a crash and take out a competitors boat and cost them thousands also...Not a good way to make friends...
I have to be able to depend on my radio gear....
I spray all of my receivers and servos and nicad batteries that are inside of a waterproof radio box with Corrosion X as a second layer of water protection.
I have had my boats involved in wrecks that have completely torn the lids off of my radio box,,, had the boat flip upside down in water and then have to wait until the race is over before the retrieve boat is sent out to pick up the dead boats.... the electronics may be completely under water for over 5-6 minutes with the battery power still turned on,, and they will be completely fine when get the boat back to shore...
So I know the stuff works.
.
http://www.corrosionx.com/
We used it a lot to spray the crap out of electronic parts to help them survive a little bit longer... but around salt water... time is your enemy...
BTW... good luck with those head bolts....
For you guys that play with RC cars and trucks,, this stuff is fantastic.. Hands down the best stuff you can use if you play in the water, snow and mud..
I race nitro RC boats and I can tell ya'... radio glitches at over 100 mph are no joke... they can turn a 3000.00 dollar boat into a pile of scrap wood and fiberglass in a heartbeat.
Worse than that, a glitch can cause a crash and take out a competitors boat and cost them thousands also...Not a good way to make friends...
I have to be able to depend on my radio gear....
I spray all of my receivers and servos and nicad batteries that are inside of a waterproof radio box with Corrosion X as a second layer of water protection.
I have had my boats involved in wrecks that have completely torn the lids off of my radio box,,, had the boat flip upside down in water and then have to wait until the race is over before the retrieve boat is sent out to pick up the dead boats.... the electronics may be completely under water for over 5-6 minutes with the battery power still turned on,, and they will be completely fine when get the boat back to shore...
So I know the stuff works.
.
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corrosion x is good stuff, my last marina used to get it...
banged out that headjob last summer.. actually a fresh, ball carbide burr in a die grinder made pretty quick work of em... thankfully... but it's just a sample of the corrosion horsesh*t I have to deal with..
banged out that headjob last summer.. actually a fresh, ball carbide burr in a die grinder made pretty quick work of em... thankfully... but it's just a sample of the corrosion horsesh*t I have to deal with..
I knew a guy that had a seized up Mazda rotary, he hooked up the starter 24 volts with 2 battery's...that got it spinning!
I was wondering why your engine is locked up after sitting for only two years? Did you have the hood off and no air cleaner so water got in it?
I was wondering why your engine is locked up after sitting for only two years? Did you have the hood off and no air cleaner so water got in it?
Hood was on all I did was drain all oil from engine and trans no air cleaner on headers on but no exhaust plugs were on I took off dizzy to use on another burb but got a new one and put it to tdc about two years ago and that was last time I moved it. So put new wires and dizzy on went to crank and starter just clicked remove starter put new mini high torque starter and same so tried to turn from harmonic balancer nothing tried from flywheel nothing so here I am. Now just letting mmo and atf sit for a few days.
