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engine starting issues after rebuilt

Philouw

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Hey ya'll,
I just installed a new camshaft and lifters on my 86 350 K5 Blazer, and today was the big firing up day, but i cranked it for 10 to 15 seconds, and it didn't start. I don't want to crank it longer to avoid lobe wiping.
Fuel pump works, I primed the carburetor by pouring fuel in the bowl through the vents, and it squirts in the intake, but when i turn the key, it doesn't want to fire up. When i removed the spark plugs, they all smellt like gasoline. Some of them were wet, so i guess there was fuel that got in the cylinders.
I was thinking, maybe the timing ? i've set it up to 16 BTDC on the balancer, is it too much ? I've heard some people going for 10 to 12 BTDC, would that make a difference ? or maybe I missed something ? any advices ? Thank you !!!
 
Oh, and check the easy stuff first, like the power wire on the distributor. You wont believe how often its put on the wrong terminal (tach location) or left unplugged by mistake.
 
not that i noticed... it just sounds exactly like a cold start, but a very long one.
 
Oh, and check the easy stuff first, like the power wire on the distributor. You wont believe how often its put on the wrong terminal (tach location) or left unplugged by mistake.

well, since i installed a tachometer to be able to keep the engine between 2000 and 3000 for the break in procedure, i made sure the power wire was plugged at the right location, and the tachometer too :/
 
not that i noticed... it just sounds exactly like a cold start, but a very long one.

Verify spark. Easiest way without shocking the crap out of yourself, is to hook up the timming light and crank for a second or two. If it flashes you have spark.
 
Verify spark. Easiest way without shocking the crap out of yourself, is to hook up the timming light and crank for a second or two. If it flashes you have spark.
Thanks ! I'll try that, but that would be weird, since i bought those AC delco spark plugs, 4 months ago, with new cables. Is it possible that they would already be dead ?
 
well, since i installed a tachometer to be able to keep the engine between 2000 and 3000 for the break in procedure, i made sure the power wire was plugged at the right location, and the tachometer too :/

Ok, have you double checked firing order clockwise 18436572
 
Ok, have you double checked firing order clockwise 18436572

Yes I have, 18436572 it is. Since it's written on the intake, i did make sure it was the right order. but I'll triple check that if necessary
 
Thanks ! I'll try that, but that would be weird, since i bought those AC delco spark plugs, 4 months ago, with new cables. Is it possible that they would already be dead ?

This isn't to verify if the plug itself is firing, its to make sure there is spark going to the plug. (Pickup coil/ignition coil/rotor/ect.)
 
This isn't to verify if the plug is firing, its to make sure there is spark going to the plug. (Pickup coil/ignition coil/rotor/ect.)

oh okay, got it. So should I do that for all 8 spark plugs one by one ? Isn't there a risk of wiping those lobes if i crank it too much ? :/ i'm really afraid of that...
 
oh okay, got it. So should I do that for all 8 spark plugs one by one ? Isn't there a risk of wiping those lobes if i crank it too much ? :/ i'm really afraid of that...

Nope, just one. If it has spark we know that the distributor is working right, and we can start looking elsewhere.
 
As long as you coated the cam and lifters with a good break in lube you'll be ok.
 
Really common to get the distributor 180 degrees out during a cam swap. I always lined the cam gear dot and the crank gear dot where they were closest to each other...made sense. The problem is that is #6 TDC not #1 TDC.
 
Nope, just one. If it has spark we know that the distributor is working right, and we can start looking elsewhere.

alright cool !! i'll do that tomorrow in the morning. Right now I removed the spark plugs to let the gas in the cylinder evaporate during the night. I thought maybe it was flooded or something...
 
As long as you coated the cam and lifters with a good break in lube you'll be ok.

I did coat the lobes and lifters with some comp cam camshaft and lifter lubes, but that was few weeks ago. would the lube go away after a while (dripping, dry out etc...) ? or that thin layer remaining on the lobes is enough to protect the camshaft from dry starts ?
 
Really common to get the distributor 180 degrees out during a cam swap. I always lined the cam gear dot and the crank gear dot where they were closest to each other...made sense. The problem is that is #6 TDC not #1 TDC.

thanks for your reply. yes, i did put it on #6 TDC compression stroke, to align those 2 dots crank shaft with camshaft, since it's easier, but then i turned the engine 360 degrees to put it back on #1 TDC compression stroke. Plus, when i reinstalled the distributor, i've put a spark plug on #1 cylinder (untight) so i could hear the air coming out, meaning it was on the compression stroke. So i'm pretty sure it was on #1
 
I did coat the lobes and lifters with some comp cam camshaft and lifter lubes, but that was few weeks ago. would the lube go away after a while (dripping, dry out etc...) ? or that thin layer remaining on the lobes is enough to protect the camshaft from dry starts ?
Same stuff I use. I've let it sit a few weeks without issues.
 
thanks for your reply. yes, i did put it on #6 TDC compression stroke, to align those 2 dots crank shaft with camshaft, since it's easier, but then i turned the engine 360 degrees to put it back on #1 TDC compression stroke. Plus, when i reinstalled the distributor, i've put a spark plug on #1 cylinder (untight) so i could hear the air coming out, meaning it was on the compression stroke. So i'm pretty sure it was on #1
If it was on #6 top TDC and you spun it 180 you would be on #1 TDC, 360 your back at #6 TDC
 

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