bigblue
1/2 ton status
I found out that my exhaust manifold IS cracked. I am getting ready to change it out. Anything I need to know before I get into this. It will be the first one ever for me.
CK5
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exhaust manifold changeout
- Thread starter bigblue
- Start date
muddin4fun
3/4 ton status
If you didn't live in cali, i would recomend headers. BUT....LOL! Get a big f'n pry bar because sometimes exhaust manifolds or your heads can be a little warped and that'll help to "persuade" them into place.
Also, get all your gaskets! The ones where the manifold and heads meet and the little ones for where the manifold meets the pipe.
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html>http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html</A><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by muddin4fun on 05/09/01 01:13 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
Also, get all your gaskets! The ones where the manifold and heads meet and the little ones for where the manifold meets the pipe.
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html>http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html</A><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by muddin4fun on 05/09/01 01:13 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
bigblue
1/2 ton status
Sweet I will do that. I just got a pry bar Just in time. I am going to do it on Saturday....what is the gasket called that attaches to the pipe?
The doughnut
<font color=blue> I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy!
What you need to know is that if you break a bolt off in the head, you are going to pay h3ll getting that fixed. Two methods I have heard of using or have used myself to get them loose: Heat vehicle up to operating temp, then try to remove any stuck bolts...they will be corroded and weaker than when new, so don't go being a guerilla or they will break. I use a 3/8" with a handle that doesn't give me enough leverage to break the bolts unless I really try hard. The other method, which I have used with much success, is to hit the bolt head (if accessible) with a hammer, repeatedly, and hard. Works the same as heating up the surrounding metal.
One thing I JUST thought of. Since heating up the surrounding metal, but not the bolt, is the best way to remove a stuck bolt, bringing vehicle up to operating temp will help, but won't be the best. Now, I know that the "canned air" stuff they sell for computer cleaning, is propelled (I'm almost positive) by propane. As it comes out, it is very cold. If you turn one of the cleaner cans upside down(its really neat lol) you can in short order, freeze a small quantity of water in a plastic cup. Watch your fingers though, the nozzle tends to drip freezing liquid. So my idea then, is to heat vehicle up to operating temp, hit bolt head with hammer a few times, turn vehicle off, spray with the freezing stuff, then wrench it out.
The stuff isn't liquid nitrogen, so you won't have to worry about the bolt shattering because its cold. It just might do the trick. If you ask me, any bolts on a motor that is still in a vehicle, that don't easily come out, are worth EVERY precaution against breaking them off. An EZ out in almost all cases won't save you either, since more than 50% of the time break off themselves. (think about it...an EZ-out EXPANDS the bolt into the threads as it bites into them)
Also, use BRASS nuts on the new exhaust manifold studs, as they will not get stuck on the studs like steel nuts will. You'll probably break the ones on your truck now off trying to remove them. No biggie of course because the manifold is garbage, but on a good manifold, you need to heat the thing up with a torch to remove them.
Anyway, some thoughts.
Dorian
My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
One thing I JUST thought of. Since heating up the surrounding metal, but not the bolt, is the best way to remove a stuck bolt, bringing vehicle up to operating temp will help, but won't be the best. Now, I know that the "canned air" stuff they sell for computer cleaning, is propelled (I'm almost positive) by propane. As it comes out, it is very cold. If you turn one of the cleaner cans upside down(its really neat lol) you can in short order, freeze a small quantity of water in a plastic cup. Watch your fingers though, the nozzle tends to drip freezing liquid. So my idea then, is to heat vehicle up to operating temp, hit bolt head with hammer a few times, turn vehicle off, spray with the freezing stuff, then wrench it out.
The stuff isn't liquid nitrogen, so you won't have to worry about the bolt shattering because its cold. It just might do the trick. If you ask me, any bolts on a motor that is still in a vehicle, that don't easily come out, are worth EVERY precaution against breaking them off. An EZ out in almost all cases won't save you either, since more than 50% of the time break off themselves. (think about it...an EZ-out EXPANDS the bolt into the threads as it bites into them)
Also, use BRASS nuts on the new exhaust manifold studs, as they will not get stuck on the studs like steel nuts will. You'll probably break the ones on your truck now off trying to remove them. No biggie of course because the manifold is garbage, but on a good manifold, you need to heat the thing up with a torch to remove them.
Anyway, some thoughts.
Dorian
My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
bigblue
1/2 ton status
How many bolts will I have to take off? I tightened my bolts the other night to see if that wuld do anything and they all moved pretty easily. I think there were 4 i itightened
There are 6 bolts on each side. The passenger side may have this goofy emissions plate between the block and the manifold if thats the side that is cracked. I have a set of manifolds off my old 85 305 if you need them Ill give them to you just pay shipping. You may want to make sure they fit though...also get a long xtension bar to get at the studs from underneath...
rocko
1/2 ton status
When I added my headers.. removing the exhaust manifolds was easy.. turns out all the manifold bolts were already loose... go figure.. a 1983 and they all came out in one piece..
Good luck.. if you tightned them the other day.. they should all come out in one piece..
Good luck.. and watch out for bloody knuckles.!!!!
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it. <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.rocko.coloradok5.com>http://www.rocko.coloradok5.com</A>
Good luck.. if you tightned them the other day.. they should all come out in one piece..
Good luck.. and watch out for bloody knuckles.!!!!
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it. <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.rocko.coloradok5.com>http://www.rocko.coloradok5.com</A>
FRIZZLEFRY
1/2 ton status
I had to put some used manifolds on mine and they were way warped.I bought these things called manifold spreaders from the Snap on dude.You put one between the front part of the manifold and the middle ,and the other between the middle and the rear part .Its sorta like a turn buckle,you crank on it and it spreads the manifold.I had to crank on them and use some heat cuz mine were realy bad.Another thing I did was to use anti seeze goo and new bolts so I wont have problems next time
Proving once again that man CAN live on beer alone
Proving once again that man CAN live on beer alone
FRIZZLEFRY
1/2 ton status
Another problem I had was finding a good passenger side manifold.I got 7 that all had cracks under the heat shield for the heat riser. Im just lucky I found this before I put them on er I would have been pissed.
Proving once again that man CAN live on beer alone
Proving once again that man CAN live on beer alone
ChevyCaGal
3/4 ton status
I live in Ca up north of you...I am in process of doing headers. You can get smog legal ones. You can get a set up with headers and a y-pipe that leads to your cat converter. They run from $300-$500 bucks. Let me know if you want parts numbers and info. I have about 20 catalogs around here....you live I bet relatively close to PAW (Peformance Automotive Warehouse). Try them. They are good priced and have everything.....check out the hedman set up and the Edelbrock ones...those have smog legal set up for your years....
"Suck Fumes Ford Boy"
"I love my country, I fear my government"
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html>http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html</A>
"Suck Fumes Ford Boy"
"I love my country, I fear my government"
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html>http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html</A>
bigblue
1/2 ton status
thanks for the info. I am sticking with the exhaust manifold from Autozone for $98.00. It has lifetime warranty. I want headers but can live without. i need to save money...a little tight right now....later
