adamforsythe
1/2 ton status
Ok lets see those duel exhaust set up with headers. I want to hear about how you guys did it. Where did you buy your kits?
Thanks
Adam
Thanks
Adam
CK5
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exhaust set up (Headers)
- Thread starter adamforsythe
- Start date
Mad-Dog
1/2 ton status
Hey Adam, hows it going man...
I ran Hooker Comps into a custom 2.5" system all the way back and out behind each wheel.
i had them install a crossover pipe directly behind the transfer case to equalize the the pressure waves which broadens the torque curve and helps to mellow out the nasty
exhaust note created from the hot cam and flowmaster #40 mufflers.
I also have a O2 sensor plumbed into the left collector for use with my Halmeter A/F-30
air/fuel ratio meter (carb tuning made easy)...!
I ran Hooker Comps into a custom 2.5" system all the way back and out behind each wheel.
i had them install a crossover pipe directly behind the transfer case to equalize the the pressure waves which broadens the torque curve and helps to mellow out the nasty
exhaust note created from the hot cam and flowmaster #40 mufflers.I also have a O2 sensor plumbed into the left collector for use with my Halmeter A/F-30
air/fuel ratio meter (carb tuning made easy)...!
I am not a big fan of running an exhaust pipe down the right side of a GM 4X4. The space between the transmission cross-member and the transfer case is too tight for an exhaust pipe (unless the transfer case is clocked). My 1985 K30 has a dual exhaust system, with an exhaust pipe running down the right side, and it is so close to the transfer case that it is almost touching; which I am sure is causing excessive heat to build up inside the transfer case.
Clocking the transfer case upwards is one way to open up a bigger area, for an exhaust pipe to run down the right side. Then running an exhaust pipe down the right side will not cause heat build up in the transfer case. Another way to route a custom dual exhaust system on a GM 4X4, would be to run both pipes down the left side. There is plenty of room along the left side of the transmission cross-member to route two exhaust pipes side-by-side.
Clocking the transfer case upwards is one way to open up a bigger area, for an exhaust pipe to run down the right side. Then running an exhaust pipe down the right side will not cause heat build up in the transfer case. Another way to route a custom dual exhaust system on a GM 4X4, would be to run both pipes down the left side. There is plenty of room along the left side of the transmission cross-member to route two exhaust pipes side-by-side.
GM didn't think that was a problem, all the 6.2 trucks were duals from the front to back, and what I've been running with my 355.
Yes it's kind of tight (nowhere near the space on the drivers side) but mine was adapted to headers from pre-bent tubing from Napa and doesn't hit the t-case.
With true dual exhaust you are seeing roughly half the heat through the exhaust, plus headers tend to bleed off more heat than manifolds as well, unless they are internally coated.
Yes it's kind of tight (nowhere near the space on the drivers side) but mine was adapted to headers from pre-bent tubing from Napa and doesn't hit the t-case.
With true dual exhaust you are seeing roughly half the heat through the exhaust, plus headers tend to bleed off more heat than manifolds as well, unless they are internally coated.
dodgedude99
1/2 ton status
Hooker makes a nice mandrel bent kit for $136 thru Summit, their part number is HOK-16528HKR.
this has a nice drivers side pipe that goes up and around the transfer case, then a muffler, and the tail pipe exits behind the tire.
i had gotten a kit for my step sons 90 jimmy, and it fits pretty decent even adding Convertors to the mix as well, better then that Dynomax crap that i originally bought for it.
this has a nice drivers side pipe that goes up and around the transfer case, then a muffler, and the tail pipe exits behind the tire.
i had gotten a kit for my step sons 90 jimmy, and it fits pretty decent even adding Convertors to the mix as well, better then that Dynomax crap that i originally bought for it.
WARP1
Registered Member
I got a kit from JC Whitney. I needed to add pieces from AutoZone to make it fit. It still would need to be welded to seal all the leaks.
Shh...I'm hiding
Registered Member
Flotech headers, 3" pipes in to flowmaster 40's, 2.5 out behind tires. Seems to be no problem with t-case so far. I didnt use a kit. I paid I guy at a shop to do it. I put the headers on my self and bought the flowmasters. It cost about $300 to have the pipes done fully welded. Dont know if thats a good price. Only thing I would change is to add a cross over.
uglyangelracing
1/2 ton status
Dynamax sells a pretty decent kit but needed some persuation in areas
