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EZ-inch question

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samsterman99

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I installed my Ez-inch in a odd way apparently. And now I am wondering if this is going to be trouble. take a look and give me some feedback. It is bolted to the pack securely, and the entire spring perch is touching the ez inch, so i am not missing any contact area. Can I run it?
DSC00428_zpsfa1d71c2.jpg
 
They are in upside down. The radius side go towards the springs. It prevents stress cracks from forming.
 
Yeah, I was more worried about the offset to the rear. I had to do that in order to use the stock spring plates on top.
 
samsterman99 said:
Yeah, I was more worried about the offset to the rear. I had to do that in order to use the stock spring plates on top.
Click to expand...

when i installed mine, i milled out part of the stock plate in order to fit the nut end of the bolt. I relocated mine an inch forward but depending on how close you cut the bolt you may need to make more clearance in there.

DSCN0650.jpg
 
The EZ inch should always be centered over the perch.

Think of it this way,

You're not moving the axle but moving the truck with springs over the axle for the offset.
 
cybrfire said:
The EZ inch should always be centered over the perch.

Think of it this way,

You're not moving the axle but moving the truck with springs over the axle for the offset.
Click to expand...

Right, I'll get it moved around then as soon as I get some new spring plates.
 
thearborbarber said:
They are in upside down. The radius side go towards the springs. It prevents stress cracks from forming.
Click to expand...

1: Thearborbarber is right. Your block is upside down.
The sharp edge will cause your bottom spring to break.

2: You should never use blocks on the front axle.

3: You should never reuse U-bolts on an axle.

4: When using blocks, they should always be centered and locked in place so they can't slide out when you find out why you shouldn't reuse U-bolts.
 
If you want to add lift without having to buy new spring packs, take them off and take them to someone who builds spring packs and have them re-arched. You'll be surprised at how much lift you can get out of stock springs.

If you don't know where to go, ask someone who owns a dump truck.
 
Whiterockfire said:
2: You should never use blocks on the front axle.
Click to expand...

This isnt a block, its an ez inch, it bolts through the springpack so its not considered a block,the reason you arent suppose to use blocks is because there is more stress on the turning axle and they can give a bad ride and move around. But the ez inch is bolted to the leaf springs and also the head of the bolt sits in the hole on the perch, so it will not move around. Its only of the cheapest ways to get lift without messing up your caster angle with increasing the shackle length.
 
I don't wanna start a block vs ez inch war. Plenty of topics like that are here. I'm only running it to relocate the axle while my new springs are being built, needed to find out my new driveshaft length and check for clearances. This is only on here for a couple weeks and then I'm done with it.
 
Ah 10-4, my bad. I have never seen these EZ inch not blocks devises before.
But the fact remains, you should not use blocks on the front axle.
 
a block sanwiches in place and if ubolts come loose fall out.

the easy inch / zero rate blocks bolt in and are considered a thick add a leaf ( zero leaf spring rate change ) hence the name .

you are correct in no blocks . we all have been running zero rates / ezinch blocks for years hard core with no problems.

and fyi rearch only is a band aid on old springs . and you can only arch so much before the main leaf is useless from being arched to close and changing the eye - eye distance and not letting the spring move / flex as it was designed.

if your springs are that bad just buy new for better ride and working style.

also welcome to the site :thumb:
 
:thumb: Thank You

I agree new springs are always "better". But the point I was trying to make about re-arching your stock springs is that for a guy on a budget who wants lift and isn't building a skyscraper on wheels, it's simply a more affordable option than having to buy all new springs. And it's way safer than attempting to use blocks on the front end.

For example you should typically be able to get 3" of lift by re-arching on all 4 corners for roughly the same price as a single new spring pack, and still be within the stock springs usable tolerance.

Not a lot of people even know they can re-arch their stock springs, so I was just throwing it out there trying to help someone save some cash and who knows, maybe save a life from the dangers of front end blocks.
 
i use to work at a spring shop .

and just so others know tapered leafs EX: stock fronts in out trucks or the thick middle and thinner to the ends ( tapered name ) cant be rearched there a diffrent style springs and its not a good idea at all.

we both have good points here and hope the info helps someone later on down the road . :D
 
Whiterockfire said:
1: Thearborbarber is right. Your block is upside down.
The sharp edge will cause your bottom spring to break.
Click to expand...

Correct.

Whiterockfire said:
2: You should never use blocks on the front axle.
Click to expand...

Correct, but this is not a block.

Whiterockfire said:
3: You should never reuse U-bolts on an axle.
Click to expand...

Incorrect.

Whiterockfire said:
4: When using blocks, they should always be centered and locked in place so they can't slide out when you find out why you shouldn't reuse U-bolts.
Click to expand...

I have blocks being held in place on reused u-bolts right now.

Martin
 
I will 100% diss agree on reuse ubolts if at all possible not to .

I almost lost a dana 60 front on 38" tires with few month old ubolts I reused and hit good n tight with air gun .

only ones I would ever think of reuseing is course thread style .
 
I thought we settled the blocks and u-bolts thing in the 80s.

It's not that you can't re-use u-bolts. It's just that they will pass their yield strength with torque and hard use. Once metal yields, it loses the vast majority of it's tensile strength. Since the average guy at home (us) can't tell if or how much our u-bolts have yielded, it's recommended to replace them if they're ever removed. I replace mine because I'm an engineer and I'm meticulous and paranoid.

.
 
I never replace them unless I have to cut them off because I was a mechanic and know it's silly to do so.

Martin
 
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