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F*ck me

U

us74k5

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So If you have been reading the forums, I have been rebuilding my 396 big block. Just got the heads on today, fresh from the machine shop. Have been struggling with the rocker arms, but got it all figured out, and as I was checking the clearance of the valves on the compression stroke.... Look what I found.... Any suggestions, or anyone out there with a set of big block heads they want to get rid of? Preferably aluminum this time... Also, would it be wrong for me to go burn down the machine shop that let this slip past them? (found this first one, then realized its the same on 4 other spots).

shitcrackfuckme.JPG
 
Does anyone have any ideas as to what I should do here? Should I just run them as is? I would be money the machine shop is going to tell me to go f#ck myself. Sigh. Ruined weekend / month.
 
Is it something the machine shop did to crack that?
 
I have no idea honestly, I pulled the heads after an over heat to have them rebuilt. The machine shop should have caught that before finishing the heads and charging me $500.
 
never did a lot of head work but im pretty sure those valve guides can be removed via drilling or pressing. ive seend brass ones used a lot. but thats something the machine shop should have let you known about. raise hell.
 
No worries about raising hell. On monday they will get an ear full.
 
agree that its a repairable thing. if you take it to the same machine shop you could probably work out some sort of deal to have them fix the stuff they missed the first go around.
 
I'd be pissed. I'm surprised that the machine shop even did any kind of finish work on thoes if they had cracks in them. Even if they could be repaired, they should have called you. After you get this straightend out with them (refund of fix at a discount)....I'd be looking for a new shop.
 
are you real familiar with this shop?

you sure you got your heads back?
 
anytime I send anything out I mark it.

My initials are RV, so it gets over looked for most auto/truck stuff.

Sometimes I use HD, most think it means heavy duty.

It doesn't, and it doesn't mean hardly dangerous either. :wink1:
 
Lol straight back to the machine shop. This is one of the major points of hot tanking and cleaning things up. To check for structural damage before any work is done.

Hope you payed with a credit card cause if they give you **** deny charges and leave the heads on their doorstep.
 
I did pay with a credit card, and I had not thought about that. Depends on what kind of response I get from them on monday. You know what... I wonder if they are my heads or not, they called me and told me there was a broke bolt in one of the accessory holes, and wanted a lot of money to pull it out, so i said screw it and i just put that end towards the firewall. However, I never saw a broken bolt in them before i turned them in... Now you got me steaming even more.
 
Ancient4X4 said:
Good call!
Click to expand...


I occasionally get one right!:wink1:

Seriously, many years ago I use to have a bunch of low life mechanic friends. Heard stories @ crap they would do...main reason I do as much of my own work as I can...
 
instead of marking the parts, you could just wright down the casting numbers to compare when you get it back.

i didnt even think about getting the wrong heads back... good call 62 fat guy.
 
When valve guides are cracked like that. It is usually from a bent valve. Were those heads off an engine that lost a timing chain/gears?
Those guides should have been replaced at the machine shop. That is pretty shoddy work.
When you take the heads back be sure they replace them all. There may be more cracks you cant see.
 
The heads had 5k miles on them, then got over heated and burned up two valves. Other than that the engine was perfect...
 
resurrected_jimmy said:
I'd like to see 4x4High, weigh in on this one....
Click to expand...

Ok, here i am. I left him a PM already but i guess should leave a response here as well for any others that ever have this issue.

Basically that crack won't hurt a thing and can be left alone assuming the valve guide clearance is good. On BBC heads the guides are changeable and the intake is easy to change, the exhaust guide on the other hand goes through a water jacket and can sometimes be a pain to change a guide and not have water leak past the guide. I ALWAYS pressure test a BBC head that i've changed an exhaust guide on just for this reason. The exhaust guides are also different sizes along its length and MUST come out and go back in from the correct direction or you can crack the head. ALWAYS use a sealant on the exhaust guides when installing them but its not required on the intakes since those don't pass through a water jacket.

Like i explained in my PM to the OP if these heads came into my shop i would have tore them apart and cleaned and inspected them and then if the guide clearance was good i would then call the customer and let him know that the guides are cracked and that they could be left alone. I then let the customer decide what he/she wants to do. If moneys not an object then by all means replace the guides but if things are tight they can be left alone with no ill effects.
 
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