It's how I make rear disc setups work without a proportioning valve. I put the biggest caliper on front, and the smallest in the rear. Then I don't even touch the master cylinder.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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Factory brake options/setups for heavy 1/2 light 3/4
- Thread starter dyeager535
- Start date
For the front, the calipers are basically the same. The rotor is slightly larger with the 3/4 needing the calipers a little further out. Other than an expensive Wilwood set-up, my H3 brake conversion is the BEST option for the 1/2 ton chevy front.
Even allows brake servicing without pulling the hubs.
Even allows brake servicing without pulling the hubs.
There are different sized pistons in the different calipers. It's like a 350 and a 400. Same outer dimensions, different inner dimensions.
Marion
Marion
Exactly. When i was prepping my 8 lug axles, the rear had the big 13" drum. Which also determines the Caliper size for the front. Same caliper housing different sized piston.
Since the axles where from a 3/4 Burb, i just ordered the stock replacemants for the JB7 brakes and everything was correct.
So getting calipers from a K20 will bolt on and will net me better front braking?
Yes, if your current set up is the smaller piston. But the rotor size is a little different also, i don't know how that would effect the pad to rotor fitment. I forget exactly the diameter difference in the rotors but it's not to much.
The mounting bracket adjusts that, not the caliper.
Martin
Martin
That makes sense, so get the proper backing plate for the larger piston caliper. So pad to rotor contact would be correct.
Either backing plate should accept any of the caliper options. Externally the calipers are identical. The backing plate just needs to match the hub/disc that you decide to use (8-lug hubs have slightly larger discs than 6-lug hubs).
I still don't understand why GM simultaneously used two different backing plates that are so similar. When I placed mine side-by-side it looked like the difference between the caliper placements was a small fraction of an inch. Was the slight size difference worth the hassle?
Interesting. I lucked out when I put my 14BFF on. Switched from the smaller 10-bolt brakes to 13" brakes (still drum), and haven't felt a difference yet. The rest of the brake system is stock 1/2-ton, except for the 3/4-ton hubs and backing plates.
Kinda surprised me that it worked out like that, but I can't complain.
Correct, i don't know why either. That's why when you replace brake related parts, when prepping your axles. After you have it figured out that all is correct. Save that info for future replacements.Either backing plate should accept any of the caliper options. Externally the calipers are identical. The backing plate just needs to match the hub/disc that you decide to use (8-lug hubs have slightly larger discs than 6-lug hubs).
I still don't understand why GM simultaneously used two different backing plates that are so similar. When I placed mine side-by-side it looked like the difference between the caliper placements was a small fraction of an inch. Was the slight size difference worth the hassle?
Way to many options on the small differences in parts capatibility. On my up and coming swap, i got a matched set out of a '86 Suburban. So it made things simple, sort of. Lot's of choices in the parts books. But i do know now what i have for future replacements. So there won't be no back and forth to the parts house to swap wrong items.
Nope, you want to use the half ton caliper mount with the half ton rotor, and the three quarter ton caliper mount with the three quarter ton rotor, any of the three calipers will work just fine with either set up.
Martin
What about the rotor diameter difference? Well thinking a little here, i guess the small amount of diameter doesn't really matter that much
Ok re-reading, yes you got it right. I guess thats what i meant all along 
If you put the correct rotor and caliper mounts together it will put them in the correct place.
Martin
Martin
Thank you sir, this will help others.
No problem.
Martin
Martin
desertrat67
Hawk Driver
I had an issue with the rears locking up on my old crew cab. It was lifted and the arm for the load compensating valve in the back was already maxed out so I took off the arm and adjusted the knob that the arm connected to. When I found the happy place, that is where I left it. Didn't have to change any parts on the truck. If you don't haul a lot of stuff often, this may be an option.
Is this not what I said?
I was correcting Livid4Dirt. He figured out that he wasn't typing what he was thinking.
Martin
