Factory hydraulic clutch transplant?s

[OLD DAWG]

I'm sure someone out there used the hydraulic clutch from a mid/late 80s GM in their 1st gen. I'm heading in that direction and was wondering what problems I might run into, such as which pedal assy. to use (1st gen vs the later ones) figuring out pedal throw length, etc. etc. Thanks, Doug

 

[Ryan B.]

Hey dude.
A couple of the other guys that have done this: Yukon Jack, ARQ, and Burt4x4, and myself. I studied Burt's setup and did something very similar but improved what i saw might need some tweeking.
Advance adapters offers a braket for mounting a toyota slave cylinder to a chevy bellhousing. On burts blazer, that AA braket seemed to flex a little, so i built my own braket from 1/4" plate.. mounting it off the two drivers side bellhousing bolts, and taking off the ball stud for the clutch linkage and using that 3rd bolt hole to support the bracket.
Then i just found where the slave cylinder needed to mount and marked the drill holes on my slave cylinder plate. Slave was from a '80 toyota land cruiser.. Burt posted his part numbers for me.. (see other post i just brought back to the top)
I used the factory 1st gen pedal. your automatic steering column should already have the sleeve for it, you just need to slide the pedal through and bolt on the keeper.
The master cylinder itself i ordered for an 87 or 89 chevy K30 1 ton truck.
I studied burt's pictures for the location of the hole that needs to be drilled on the firewall, using the bolts for the power booster as a reference.
When i got the pedal and master mounted, i realized the pushrod for the master was going to be about 1/2" too long for me to drill a hole on the pedal assembly and bolt it together. This is where some of the other guys made a spacer for the master cylinder on the firewall to take up that 1/2". What i did was cut off the end of the master pushrod, and use a die.. then it was threaded 1/4-28 to accept a threaded rod end. Not only will it have a small heim joint built into the linkage, it is also adjustable for pedal height, since i didn't like how high up the pedal would have been, i moved it down about even with the brake pedal.
Besides that, there was a few fittings i needed to track down to convert the master cylinder to a flared brakeline that i could use as the hydraulic line.

Good luck!

 

[Yukon Jack]

As I am using both a hydroboost brake system and a hydraulic clutch I made a reinforcement for the firewall.

Here is a pic showing the hydraulic clutch master mounted up. It is from a 1989 1 ton, old body style.

I later found out that the new body style master does not need the shim that I had to make to get the master to be at the right angle.

Here is a pic of the type of rod end I used to attach both rods to the stock pedals.

 

[OLD DAWG]

Thanks for the info guys. And thanks for the pics YJ I thought reinforcing the firewall in that area might be a good idea and I'm glad to see that I can use the stock pedal setup as well. I'd hate to think that I crawled around under the dash of a wasp infected donor for nothing