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Fastest way to remove 6.2 diesel

cadmo

cadmo

Registered Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2005
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Calgary Alberta Canada
Ok so whats the fastest way to get my locked up 6.2 out of my 87 k5?

Ive got most of the harness detached then seen i could unhook from the firewall. Front clip will be off by tomorrow.

I cant rotate the crank to remove the converter. And now noticed bracing from engine to trans (700r4) then from trans to t case.

So whay fastest, do i pull the whole driveline together, then seperate on the floor.

Or is it hard to seperate the engine with the converter still attached. I thought i read somewhere you run the risk of damaging the pump or seals?

Anyways what does everyone recommend

Thanks,
D
 
Lol yes before the anger sided i would have been all over that or a torch.

But it needs to come out not damaging everything else, as another engine needs to go back in.

D
 
So my method of torching everything is out...
 
Sorry, no help here. Never pulled a 6.2. Now a 400sb I can almost do that blindfolded. I seem to pull mine at least twice every 3 years.:doah:


Actually I would pull it all together, with the front clip off it should be easy.
 
cadmo said:
Ok so whats the fastest way to get my locked up 6.2 out of my 87 k5?

Ive got most of the harness detached then seen i could unhook from the firewall. Front clip will be off by tomorrow.

I cant rotate the crank to remove the converter. And now noticed bracing from engine to trans (700r4) then from trans to t case.

So whay fastest, do i pull the whole driveline together, then seperate on the floor.

Or is it hard to seperate the engine with the converter still attached. I thought i read somewhere you run the risk of damaging the pump or seals?

Anyways what does everyone recommend

Thanks,
D
Click to expand...

I don't know about the risk of damaging seals, but separating the two is a pretty easy affair, regardless of whether the converter is unbolted ahead of time..
 
What other engine are you installing in the rig when the smoke clears? If you're converting to a gasser you will be replacing the torque converter anyway (and governor, too). If you're putting in another diesel, that won't be necessary.
 
If you try to separate the trans at the bell and leave the converter on the flex plate you will run the risk of damaging the pump. But honestly you dont really have a choice if its that seized.
 
Unfortunately another 6.2 will go back in for now. I need the cash for 1tons and tires. I'm slowly tarting to collect parts i want. If i put a diesel back in it gets me back out on the trail sooner vs saving longer for a ls swap.
 
I was going to say a 3/8" chain to the engine and the biggest tree in your yard,,and BACK UP as fast as you can...as shown in these 2 videos..:crazy:...
How To Remove a Car Engine Like a Boss - YouTube
How To Rip Out A Car Engine - YouTube


Seriously,I may have to yank my 6.2 out sooner or later out of my '82 GMC K2500 too...(and am tempted to use the video method !)..

In my case the nose on the truck is pretty roached,inner front fenders are swiss cheese and the plow control valve is about to tear off it again..the fenders are "eh"--could be patched ,not pretty but I am not fussy--I'd be better off taking the nose right off it..then put new inner fenders on it while its off...

You might consider removing the nose on your too..

I'm leaning towards a gas engine,the diesel has been ok but for the same amount of cash as fixing everything the diesel needs, I can have a decent running six or small block in it..

When I took my '77 GMC apart I removed the whole nose in one piece, hood and all , alone, and it did suck,but it was off fairly quickly,about an hour,I used the engine hoist and straps to lift the nose off and roll it aside..

Once the nose was off I had the engine & tranny out in like 20 minutes,was so much easier than crawling under it and lying on my back for an hour unbolting the converter , or lying on the motor to get at the bellhousing upper bolts..

I hate separating the tranny and converter "in the truck",though the last 2 engine swaps I did I left the tranny in place, and had to deal with bellhousing bolts and converter bolts..it can be a battle getting them aligned later on when the engine goes back in.

I like putting them in as a unit,bolted together on the ground,but in 4x4 trucks its not as easy as a 2wd ,you have the output shaft to get back into the transfer case if you pull & put them in as one unit,which can be difficult,especially alone..

-if your not removing the nose,it can be a battle getting an assembled engine/trans in place,its about 6 feet long ,you'll need an "engine tilter"--with the nose
off though it is practically
a straight pull, and both can be snaked out (and back in) pretty easily..if you unbolt the tranny from the transfer case adapter you might have a hard time getting it to slip back together later--removing the transfer case sucks too lying on the ground,I fought to get the splined shaft to go in but it eventually did..

..trucks with a body lift are much easier to get at the bellhousing bolts,without taking the floor pan off...sometimes a long extension will let you remove all the bellhousing bolts while your behind the transfer case looking towards the engine..much better than lying on the engine !..

.stock trucks suck,the upper bolts are so close to the firewall where the seam is you'll have no knuckles after getting the upper bell bolts
out most likely..then the exhaust pipes have to come off--expect busted studs !..

I usually lift the engine up about 6" before I take off things like hoses and wires (assuming there is slack enough)--that makes removal easier and faster..I just cut old hoses and replace them too,may as well,they are cheap and needed replacing ..
 
Stomis said:
If you try to separate the trans at the bell and leave the converter on the flex plate you will run the risk of damaging the pump. But honestly you dont really have a choice if its that seized.
Click to expand...


I missed the "seized" part of his post !..:blush:

In that case I would say pull the engine and trans out as a unit--you can slide the torque converter out of the trans a lot easier on the ground and with less risk of damage..leaving the converter bolted to the flex plate and leaving the trans in the truck usually results in damage to the bushing or case,or front pump,where the converter snout slides into the front pump..since you must lift the engine up some to clear the mounts and slide it forward chances are you cant jack it up enough to clear,before the converter is all the way out,and thinks can go bad quickly..

Once you have the converter out its easy to take the flex plate bolts out....we sometimes used a torch to cut the bolt heads off at the junkyard to pull a seized engine,it was dangerous,the ATF could boil and explode the converter,and it always ruined the flex plate,sometimes the converter..

I doubt you could get at all 6 bolts on a diesel converter with a torch,or bent wrenches..we had some "custom" bent half moon long box end wrenches that we used to remove a few converters ,but it was a long sucky process,1/16 of a turn at a time..it was faster to pull the tranny with the engine..
 
diesel4me said:
I doubt you could get at all 6 bolts on a diesel converter with a torch,or bent wrenches..we had some "custom" bent half moon long box end wrenches that we used to remove a few converters ,but it was a long sucky process,1/16 of a turn at a time..it was faster to pull the tranny with the engine..
Click to expand...

I wondered about this part. It would not be much fun removing the converter in place if the truck does not also have the removable trans. tunnel. In that case, I would pull the engine with the converter and remove it on the bench. Not sure if I would take the tranny out or not, would hafta think about that for a bit. :thinking:
 
It IS possible to just unbolt the bell bolts and pull the engine out with the converter still attached,but like I said before,by the time the engine is jacked up enough to clear the mounts,the tranny will be up against the floor/firewall and converter snout will want to "bind"up in the front pump--unless there is enough forward room to pull it straight out far enough to clear the pump and bellhousing..

The trick is to not put side thrust on the converter,it has to come straight out, "aligned" and thats difficult with a 500 lb engine dangling by a chain on a hoist that always wants to "sag" at an angle at the bellhousing !..however,I have done that without damaging anything,but there was a point during the process I was very fearful of cracking the bellhousing or ruining the front pump or converter snout..took some prying,forcing and cussing,and I wasn't sure I was gonna get it apart without wrecking something..

Ditto for trying to stab the tranny output shaft back into the transfer case,with it still bolted to the crossmember..it was a bitch,not to get the shaft splines to slip "in" so much like I thought,but to keep the whole assembly from slipping right back out again,when you let go if it to stick a bolt in!--I used a ratchet strap to "pull" the tranny back into the splined collar and hold it to the adapter while I installed the adapter bolts...most guys wouldn't do it that way,but I did, rather than separate the tranny & engine..or have to drop the t-case..

I could have taken 4 more bolts out of the crossmember and truss rod and taken the T-case right out too,but I hate putting one back in alone using a floor jack on the ground..

I wish I had a big front end loader with forks like we had at the junkyard..more than one customers square body GM truck we took the cab and nose off using straps and the forkloader first thing in the morning ,and took the whole drivetrain out in less than an hour--and put in a good used engine & trans back in as a unit,and put the cab and nose back on it ,had the job done by closing time,with a half hour lunch..I miss those days..hard part was doing no body damage in the process,but the trucks we did this too were "work trucks" the guys just wanted back in operation a-s-a-p..the loader made it so much easier & faster..
 
Yes its 100% locked up, wont budge any with a 24" bar on the crank pully. I was off roading and hydrolocked it, im assuming one of the rods bent and the puston skirt is sitting on the crank throw or counterweight.

That being said I'll take the engine and trans out as one, but what about the tcase ? leave it attached and take it all out at once

Or seperate it from the trans? will there be lots of fighting etting it to align ith the trans putting it back in?

If it matters of what is best i have a 3000lb capacity fork lift with 8 ft extensions and ill purchase an engine leveler. wife will run fork lift while i maneuver drivetrain below.

Any thoughts on whats best?


diesel4me said:
I missed the "seized" part of his post !..:blush:

In that case I would say pull the engine and trans out as a unit--you can slide the torque converter out of the trans a lot easier on the ground and with less risk of damage..leaving the converter bolted to the flex plate and leaving the trans in the truck usually results in damage to the bushing or case,or front pump,where the converter snout slides into the front pump..since you must lift the engine up some to clear the mounts and slide it forward chances are you cant jack it up enough to clear,before the converter is all the way out,and thinks can go bad quickly..

Once you have the converter out its easy to take the flex plate bolts out....we sometimes used a torch to cut the bolt heads off at the junkyard to pull a seized engine,it was dangerous,the ATF could boil and explode the converter,and it always ruined the flex plate,sometimes the converter..

I doubt you could get at all 6 bolts on a diesel converter with a torch,or bent wrenches..we had some "custom" bent half moon long box end wrenches that we used to remove a few converters ,but it was a long sucky process,1/16 of a turn at a time..it was faster to pull the tranny with the engine..
Click to expand...
 
Stomis said:
This was the first time the notification "there has been posts since you started writing your reply" has ever been valid LOFL
Click to expand...

Ive pulled injectors and glow plugs first with the hopes that it would be able to turn over and push the water out. Which I've done many times to my dirt bike and Chev tracker.

But no luck with this diesel...
 
Now you've got me curious as to what you find inside there.


Don't worry about the transfer case. Assuming it's still the aluminum NP208, it's not a hard thing to bench-press into place. Get the shaft & flange engaged, and then rotate it around to line up the bolts. I did mine a few days ago by setting the low section on the skid plate and rotating it up until the input lined up with the tranny. Then I rotated the low section until the bolt holes lined up and bolted it together. It's much easier than hoisting the engine or the tranny. I wouldn't worry about getting it lined up again, the whole process only took a couple minutes (indeed, less time than threading in the 6 bolts, even).
 
Douche the cylinders with wd40 and let it sit for a few days. Then crank it over with a breaker bar. If you're really desperate you could pick the motor up partially, drop the pan and unbolt the presumably bent rod.
 
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