Fastest way to remove 6.2 diesel

[Larry]

Should be easy peezy. No need to pull the engine and trans together. I pulled a 6.2L out of this 6” lifted Suburban with a broken crank. The engine would only rotate a few degrees each way, which was not nearly enough to gain access to the torque converter bolts. I just eased the engine forward and tried to keep the TH400 and engine as even as possible in order to pull the torque converter straight out of the trans in an effor to prevent damage to the trans front pump. I’ve pulled locked up engines out of vehicles for over 20 years like this with not breaking a single pump. Typically, replace the front seal afterwards though just for precaution though.

There is also no need to ever pull a front clip to do an engine swap, unless you’re doing some elaborate Cummins swap or something like that were the engine will be going in and out many times for test fitting. Growing up in a shop through today I have never once saw a front clip removed from ANYTHING for an engine replacement other than a medium duty truck with a tilt hood. I’ve actually never seen a clip removed for an engine swap until internet forums were invented and pictures from diy mechanics started surfacing

If the vehicle is lifted just remove the tires and support the frame with jackstands as low as you can possibly go even if the front brake rotors must rest on a board (rest, no let the entire truck weight lie on the rotors). Letting air out of the rear tires also helps bring the complete lifted vehicle down low. Pulling the front clip opens yourself to new cans of worms by breaking bolts, chipping paint and never getting the body lines back straight again not to mention wiring issues once you open the bulk head connector at the firewall if your not very careful. Pulling the clip cost more time than it ever saves. You will never see a flat rate mechanic pull a clip off anything unless it is absolutely required.

This is actually the picture of a turbo 6.5L going back into the void the dead 6.2L left behind.

Up and over. The rotors are not on the floor but they look close. Just enough room to roll the cherry picker under the axle is all you need

Same thing….up and over

See a pattern here

Even video… BTW, I do 90% of my engine swaps alone and I am not a big guy. Work smart, not hard

Good luck with the swap.... sounds fun . I would love to have a 6.2/6.5L K5. Wish I was closer I would help you out

 

[cadmo]

Larry,

I totally agree about removing the front clip part. The engine bay is so big, im a big guy and i can still sit in the engine compartment to work on it.

I didnt post why the real reason the clip was coming off while asking about engine help. I plan on or hope to dovetail the front & back of it and boat side it. Also remove as much wiring as pissible from a full load truck. ie no lights horn windows ,locks, a/c. I want a pop can for a off road rig. interior is currently gutted.

I just didnt want to say things if i dont end up doing them or they take a year.

 

[cadmo]

Oh and so peopke dont have a heart attack im not talking about distroying the nice black one in my sig. Its my other rusty one

 

[Larry]

Larry,

I totally agree about removing the front clip part. The engine bay is so big, im a big guy and i can still sit in the engine compartment to work on it.

I didnt post why the real reason the clip was coming off while asking about engine help. I plan on or hope to dovetail the front & back of it and boat side it. Also remove as much wiring as pissible from a full load truck. ie no lights horn windows ,locks, a/c. I want a pop can for a off road rig. interior is currently gutted.

I just didnt want to say things if i dont end up doing them or they take a year.

That makes more sense but Whoa!!!??? You’re going to hack up that nice black Blazer in your avatar????

 

[Larry]

Oh and so peopke dont have a heart attack im not talking about distroying the nice black one in my sig. Its my other rusty one

Ah, okay Had me scared for a minute....but, we have definitely seen nice rigs get totally destroyed like that on these forums. That being the case, rip that clip off if your doing body mods anyway

 

[cadmo]

Lol the black one is cherry its doesnt go down gravel roads.

Having issues uploading pic of the white rusty one.

 

[cadmo]

Ok think picture loaded...

 

[campfire]

Larry,

I totally agree about removing the front clip part. The engine bay is so big, im a big guy and i can still sit in the engine compartment to work on it.

I didnt post why the real reason the clip was coming off while asking about engine help. I plan on or hope to dovetail the front & back of it and boat side it. Also remove as much wiring as pissible from a full load truck. ie no lights horn windows ,locks, a/c. I want a pop can for a off road rig. interior is currently gutted.

I just didnt want to say things if i dont end up doing them or they take a year.

Man, if we were closer I would totally trade my rusty 6.2 pop-can blazer for your rusty 6.2 Sierra Classic blazer. I want the opposite combination.

 

[diesel4me]

For the record I have done all but one of my engine swaps without removing the nose--it was so much easier after the nose was off my '77 GMC though,that I feel it does make life much easier,especially for those of us who are getting up there in years and working alone--in my case the nose needs new inner fenders anyway,and its easier to put them in with the nose off in my opinion..

I agree in most shops mechanics wouldn't take the nose off unless it was a very involved swap (cummins install,etc)--but for us backyarders looking for less aches and pains,the less lying time you spend bent over under a hood or lying on your back under it,lying on the engine,the less damage you'll do to yourself.if the truck needs fenders ,radiator support,etc anyway,I'd pull the nose off..
If it were minty,no,I'd leave it on and pray nothing gets damaged in the removal/install process..

 

[campfire]

For the record I have done all but one of my engine swaps without removing the nose--it was so much easier after the nose was off my '77 GMC though,that I feel it does make life much easier,especially for those of us who are getting up there in years and working alone--in my case the nose needs new inner fenders anyway,and its easier to put them in with the nose off in my opinion..

I agree in most shops mechanics wouldn't take the nose off unless it was a very involved swap (cummins install,etc)--but for us backyarders looking for less aches and pains,the less lying time you spend bent over under a hood or lying on your back under it,lying on the engine,the less damage you'll do to yourself.if the truck needs fenders ,radiator support,etc anyway,I'd pull the nose off..
If it were minty,no,I'd leave it on and pray nothing gets damaged in the removal/install process..

But once you start pulling panels, MightAsWell sets in and you find yourself staring at a bare frame next to a mountain of removed parts.


@Greg72

 

[diesel4me]

Or in my case--a pile of rust flakes big enough to fill a 55 gallon drum,with various engine and driveline parts scattered all over--.

This is why I'm leaning towards "not fixing it" and just using as a yard plow,just keep filling it with oil and hope it lasts the winter...maybe next year I'll feel more up to taking it down to "nothing" and restoring it,but if I find frame rot,I might as well not bother--I know it has a few "minor" issues now,but nothing my arc welder and a few small plates wont fix..

 

[cadmo]

Lol story of my life. Ahh its just a few more bolts. Then im looking at a project completely stripped project.

 

[Stomis]

You know you have a problem when you start modifying your truck to make taking major drive train components out hours easier...

 

[diesel4me]

If GM didn't insist on placing the engines in their trucks right against the firewall,it would have made pulling one out much easier..

Don't know why they did that,when many of their cars like Pontiacs and Buicks had a good 4+" clearance between the firewall and engine,making bell housing bolt removal a cake walk..

I never understood why they put the engine so far back,then had to use a long nosed water pump or fan clutch to get the fan close enough to the radiator to be effective--doubt a few more inches forward would have made for poor weight distribution and handling in a 2 to 3 ton truck..

When it comes to engine swaps I miss my old air cooled VW's..
4 bolts and a floor jack,a few cables and wires to take off,and the engine is on the ground in 10-15 minutes..all vehicles should be so easy..

 

[Larry]

If GM didn't insist on placing the engines in their trucks right against the firewall,it would have made pulling one out much easier..

I’ve never notice that on any GM trucks other than 67-72 GM 4x4 trucks where the engine is pretty tight to the firewall and even at that, they’re not any more difficult to get in and out.

Oh, and these little POS trucklett Trailblazers even though they aren’t really a truck. What a MOFO engine swap this was. Pretty sure these Junkers were intended to be throwaway vehicles as that engine is not an easy ordeal to get out. I was about ready to take sawzall and cut the body from the B-pillar on forward and rip the front end off. Next time @ZooMad75 fries an engine in his wifey's family truckster he is on his own

 

[diesel4me]

The SBC and BBC engines dont seen too bad to reach the upper bell bolts in a square body,but my 6.2's have the engine ,at least the heads and valve covers,practically touching the firewall..no need for it to be that close,but they did it anyway..

My friend does many engine swaps at his shop,and I think he must be a glutton for punishment--some of the SUV's and others he's done are a real nightmare !..including the Trailblazers,some Toyota SUV's and so far,he says the "worst" one ever,was a BMW SUV with all wheel drive--the front driveshafts go THRU the oil pan,so the entire front end had to be dismantled first,in order to get the engine out!..and reverse the process to install the good used engine..

Most of the engine swaps he does are a result of no one ever checking the oil--they run them till they are bone dry--or just keep driving when the temp gauge buries,till the crank wont spin any more..clueless morons,most are those with quite costly vehicles too,you'd think they would take better care of them ?..

I agree most newer vehicles were never intended to have another engine swapped in,they are "disposeable"..they make the whole vehicle out of recycled crap metal,so usually by the time an engine blows,the frame & body are roached too..I pity the poor guy who has to do an engine swap in one of the newer FWD or trucks...the old ones sucked bad enough..

 

[campfire]

The SBC and BBC engines dont seen too bad to reach the upper bell bolts in a square body,but my 6.2's have the engine ,at least the heads and valve covers,practically touching the firewall..no need for it to be that close,but they did it anyway..

My friend does many engine swaps at his shop,and I think he must be a glutton for punishment--some of the SUV's and others he's done are a real nightmare !..including the Trailblazers,some Toyota SUV's and so far,he says the "worst" one ever,was a BMW SUV with all wheel drive--the front driveshafts go THRU the oil pan,so the entire front end had to be dismantled first,in order to get the engine out!..and reverse the process to install the good used engine..

Most of the engine swaps he does are a result of no one ever checking the oil--they run them till they are bone dry--or just keep driving when the temp gauge buries,till the crank wont spin any more..clueless morons,most are those with quite costly vehicles too,you'd think they would take better care of them ?..

I agree most newer vehicles were never intended to have another engine swapped in,they are "disposeable"..they make the whole vehicle out of recycled crap metal,so usually by the time an engine blows,the frame & body are roached too..I pity the poor guy who has to do an engine swap in one of the newer FWD or trucks...the old ones sucked bad enough..

Depends on the model. Different design teams have different priorities. I can find horrible cars from the 90s and late-model cars that are bearable. Yes, nobody makes cars the way mechanics wish they were made, but some are definitely worse than others.

Case in point, I have a 1983 diesel with a throttle cable controlling the IP. But in a previous life I drove a 1983 diesel that controlled engine speed with 12 mechanical rods connected to various pivot points and ball joints, driving not only the IP but also a throttle valve, separate vacuum regulator for the transmission, and a few more things I have successfully forgotten about. And the length of each link was adjustable, so if I handed you the pieces you would be fiddling with it for hours trying to get each piece tuned properly. Same function, but about 100 times as much work as simply connecting the cable.

Guess which one I still own.


And the rule hasn't changed, any vehicle that I own must be simple to work on. That gets harder and harder to find with each new model year.

 

[cadmo]

The SBC and BBC engines dont seen too bad to reach the upper bell bolts in a square body,but my 6.2's have the engine ,at least the heads and valve covers,practically touching the firewall..no need for it to be that close,but they did it anyway..

My friend does many engine swaps at his shop,and I think he must be a glutton for punishment--some of the SUV's and others he's done are a real nightmare !..including the Trailblazers,some Toyota SUV's and so far,he says the "worst" one ever,was a BMW SUV with all wheel drive--the front driveshafts go THRU the oil pan,so the entire front end had to be dismantled first,in order to get the engine out!..and reverse the process to install the good used engine..

Most of the engine swaps he does are a result of no one ever checking the oil--they run them till they are bone dry--or just keep driving when the temp gauge buries,till the crank wont spin any more..clueless morons,most are those with quite costly vehicles too,you'd think they would take better care of them ?..

I agree most newer vehicles were never intended to have another engine swapped in,they are "disposeable"..they make the whole vehicle out of recycled crap metal,so usually by the time an engine blows,the frame & body are roached too..I pity the poor guy who has to do an engine swap in one of the newer FWD or trucks...the old ones sucked bad enough..

And thats why I quit with 2000hrs of heavduty diesel apprentice finished to go back and finish my business diploma. currently a sales manager for western Canada and also doing real estate.

I just started hating working on other peoples stuff and hearing the complaing. working on my own stuff when im about to throw tools across my shop i can take a time out.

 

[ZooMad75]

I’ve never notice that on any GM trucks other than 67-72 GM 4x4 trucks where the engine is pretty tight to the firewall and even at that, they’re not any more difficult to get in and out.

Oh, and these little POS trucklett Trailblazers even though they aren’t really a truck. What a MOFO engine swap this was. Pretty sure these Junkers were intended to be throwaway vehicles as that engine is not an easy ordeal to get out. I was about ready to take sawzall and cut the body from the B-pillar on forward and rip the front end off. Next time @ZooMad75 fries an engine in his wifey's family truckster he is on his own

You won't have to worry about that! I'll cover that beast with gas and let you light the match. By far the most hateful engine swap I've ever done. Yuck.

 

[Stomis]

Depends on the model. Different design teams have different priorities. I can find horrible cars from the 90s and late-model cars that are bearable. Yes, nobody makes cars the way mechanics wish they were made, but some are definitely worse than others.

Case in point, I have a 1983 diesel with a throttle cable controlling the IP. But in a previous life I drove a 1983 diesel that controlled engine speed with 12 mechanical rods connected to various pivot points and ball joints, driving not only the IP but also a throttle valve, separate vacuum regulator for the transmission, and a few more things I have successfully forgotten about. And the length of each link was adjustable, so if I handed you the pieces you would be fiddling with it for hours trying to get each piece tuned properly. Same function, but about 100 times as much work as simply connecting the cable.

Guess which one I still own.


And the rule hasn't changed, any vehicle that I own must be simple to work on. That gets harder and harder to find with each new model year.

OM Mercedes motor?