Here's what I did. Start with post #62.
http://alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=14873
http://alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=14873
CK5
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Fender cutting question
- Thread starter AJMBLAZER
- Start date
AK, yeah, that's about how the front will end up. Not going to trim the back of the front wheel well though. Shouldn't need to for now.
tRUSTy...heh...mind if I show that to the guys on SteelSoldiers? Some of them were adament (sp?) that I had to have at least 6" of lift to fit 38's.
I keep telling them there's more than lifting to fitting big tires but they don't listen.
tRUSTy...heh...mind if I show that to the guys on SteelSoldiers? Some of them were adament (sp?) that I had to have at least 6" of lift to fit 38's.
I keep telling them there's more than lifting to fitting big tires but they don't listen.Gaffed
1/2 ton status
I have got to quit reading all of these threads about fender cutting and then people running 38's.
Damn this website!
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I'm going to stop at the 4" suspension lift, 1" front/2" rear zero rates, and 1" body lift. Thats where I am going to stop. I AM NOT going to trim the fenders and stuff 38's. I am going to stick with 35's max.
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I love this website.
Damn this website!
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I'm going to stop at the 4" suspension lift, 1" front/2" rear zero rates, and 1" body lift. Thats where I am going to stop. I AM NOT going to trim the fenders and stuff 38's. I am going to stick with 35's max.
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I love this website.
HA! i said that too. "i love my sheetmetal, i could never do that"
CHOP
CHOP
Its too late.....
thedrip
1/2 ton status
I cut above the marker lights in front, and had to take a chunk out of the rad support on each side as well to make it look right. Also cut the back about as far back as I could without getting into the firewall. no rub with 42's and 4" though =)
Dig the trim job on the bed...
Gaffed...common...you know you wanna...common man...it's easier than it looks...just try it...just a little bit...everyone's doing it...even well respected members...you'll like it...no one gets hurt by it...
Gaffed...common...you know you wanna...common man...it's easier than it looks...just try it...just a little bit...everyone's doing it...even well respected members...you'll like it...no one gets hurt by it...
AJMBLAZER said:
I had to cut the front of the rear fenders due to moving the axle forward using ORD Zero Rates.
Go ahead and use my pic's if you want. With my current springs (7" total with the 1" BL) the tires still hit the firewall/floor area when stuffed. That's with the diff moved 1.5" forward too. The rear I had to tub out 4" per side to keep the tires from rubbing the inner wheelwells.
With 'normal' springs I ran the 40's with 5" of lift and didn't have any rub issues though. These Alcan's are so soft it's ridiculous. I tried to max them out using the forklift at work. I was checking brakeline length, shock length, and bump stop function. I got 51" under the rear tire and still had the other three solidly on the ground. brakelines were an inch from maxxed (longest SS lines I could find) Shocks were an inch or so from maxxed (14.5" Bilsteins) and sadly the bumpstops miss at all four corners (4.5" extended poly bumps)
Flexy springs are cool, but I'm gonna swap some stiffer kit springs in up front this winter. Gonna drop it back down to 4" Supsension and 1" BL again too.
Rene
With 'normal' springs I ran the 40's with 5" of lift and didn't have any rub issues though. These Alcan's are so soft it's ridiculous. I tried to max them out using the forklift at work. I was checking brakeline length, shock length, and bump stop function. I got 51" under the rear tire and still had the other three solidly on the ground. brakelines were an inch from maxxed (longest SS lines I could find) Shocks were an inch or so from maxxed (14.5" Bilsteins) and sadly the bumpstops miss at all four corners (4.5" extended poly bumps)
Flexy springs are cool, but I'm gonna swap some stiffer kit springs in up front this winter. Gonna drop it back down to 4" Supsension and 1" BL again too.
Rene
AK, yeah, that's exactly what I'm doing. You still using the stock steering or crossover?
tRUSTy, yeah, that sounds like an awesome setup but not very practical. How's it drive with the Alcans? I picture nose dives under hard braking but hey, what do I know?
tRUSTy, yeah, that sounds like an awesome setup but not very practical. How's it drive with the Alcans? I picture nose dives under hard braking but hey, what do I know?
I still have the factory ten bolt with stock steering (I do have a raised steering arm). When I upgrade to the D60 (hopefully next year) I will go x-over. Right now, the flex is awesome but this creates massive problems with the stock steering. I really have to pay attention when driving the washes we have up here.
Supreme70
1/2 ton status
well I trimed my fenders back alittle father now since I was still hitting and here is what I did.
I cut back into the fender brace at the bottom about half way, I was able to bend the wheel well back and then I put a edge piece on the fender and welded it. driverside i had to patch the wheel well then put the edge piece on the pass isnt dont yet, that will be tomorrow.
I cut back into the fender brace at the bottom about half way, I was able to bend the wheel well back and then I put a edge piece on the fender and welded it. driverside i had to patch the wheel well then put the edge piece on the pass isnt dont yet, that will be tomorrow.
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AK, did you trim the drag links? Since the axle is moved forwards an inch and a half the drag links need to be that much shorter.
Have to do anything with your driveshaft when you moved the axle forwards?
Supreme, looks good man! Damn I need to learn to weld.
Have to do anything with your driveshaft when you moved the axle forwards?
Supreme, looks good man! Damn I need to learn to weld.
Sorry, I don't know what you mean by "drag links". As for the d-shaft, I did nothing to it (and I only moved it forward one inch).
Alcan's...horrible nose dive under braking, and very severe body lean in the corners. I think for a street driven truck stiffer front springs help keep it easier to handle and drive. Flexy rear springs are less of a big deal.
Rene
Rene
If there's one thing I've learned it's that flex isn't always exactly what people think it is.
AK, this pic right here:
That's the drag link in the center of the picture. Three pieces that go from the knuckle up. The word I have, you can find it on here by doing a search for drag link and my screen name, is that when moving the front axle forwards you have to shorten the draglink the same amount.
AK, this pic right here:
That's the drag link in the center of the picture. Three pieces that go from the knuckle up. The word I have, you can find it on here by doing a search for drag link and my screen name, is that when moving the front axle forwards you have to shorten the draglink the same amount.
Sorry, we are in the middle of miscommunicating! My REAR axle is moved forward one inch but the front is in the factory possition. I know what a drag link is for the front axle but while you were thinking about the front, I was thinking about the rear. For the life of me, I could not figure out what kind of drag link there was on the REAR of my rig. I must have sounded like a total idiot saying I had no idea what a drag link was LOL. Any way, my drag links are still unmodified.
Now I think we are on the same page.
Sorry for my contribution to the confussion.
Now I think we are on the same page.
Sorry for my contribution to the confussion.
Well, I was a bit confused how you couldn't know what one was.
Supreme70
1/2 ton status
Here is the passenger side front fender. its all completed. tell me what you think, Ill guide u thru the process if you want.
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Irork
Registered Member
I took a full inch and half of the top of the fender out and tapered them towards the bottom. To the front i went the the little parking light reflector thing. and to the rear i went to the factory side molding(which i dont know how is still on there haha) i figure at the bottom of the fenders i took close to 3 inches out. the rest i cut as much as possible without losing the inner fender completely. after cutting, i drilled holes, and riveted the fender to the inner and got it to work quite nicely. and gained a ton of clearance.
