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Fiberglass top repair filler

Thank you, sir, the seam sealer did work. I finished up the inside, and at the last minute decided to go with Raptor Liner on the outside. Pretty easy to apply, and so far, very tough. Not really sure why, but I ended up putting a layer of the polyester resin across the whole top and soaking up all the hairs sticking out, making it nice and smooth, then had to go back and sand the whole thing with 100 grit so the liner would adhere properly. Believe it or not, belt sander took care of that duty just fine. Next weekend, the newly tinted side windows go back in, and if it's not 80% humidity again, I'll try to get the half cab off and the new shell on. Pretty pleased with the rear window fit, I need to clean it up a bit, but I figured that would be a job for once I was sure it was going to work. The only thing I'm a bit worried about is cracking along that seam between the top and bottom sections of the shell. I know there's flex there, I'm hoping I didn't screw up by filling those seams. We'll have to wait and see. Thanks for the help!pic2.JPG pic3.JPG done2 (1).JPG done2 (2).JPG done3.JPG Here's pics:
 
I have a question about this.

I have a Full Convertible with just a soft top now. The tailgate has been converted to the truck style so I no longer can have a roll up window. What size camper shell window/door will fill the rear window area to create a "Water Tight" seal? and where do you purchase said door? This looks like it would be right up my alley and allow me to get a hardtop without redoing my tailgate.

BTW great work looks great.
 
The window can come from anywhere except a new one from a dealer, they are going to want close to $800 for one. At least all of them that I could find. I got on CL, facebook marketplace, the recycler and looked for cheap shells that still had a back window. I took a cardboard template of what the shape of the shell opening was, and compared that to the window for sale. Some are too big, some not tall enough etc. I know the one I have now is from a shell that fit a 97 chevy full size pickup. I even tried to find RV window manufacturers, all that stuff, but in the end, just keep your eyes on the cheap ads and go see what you can find that will fit. Of the three of these I did, two were out of people selling shells. I would usually go look at the window, and then offer them half of what they were asking for the shell for just the window. They both took it, so I paid less than $150 for both of those. The one I just did, I actually got at a secondhand shell dealer just down the street. I went in to get some weatherstrip, and just asked the guy if he had any rear windows for sale. They had about 7 behind the building, not sure why, but they were all looked like they were taken off new shells, had the exterior and interior frames and all the screws, everything there. I would have paid the guy 300 for that window, it fit perfect and i barely had to change the shape of the opening. He told me $70, and I walked out with it right then...He said he would probably never sell another one, he didn't know why he kept them. So if you have a used dealer around, you may want to try there. To me, the less cutting of the original shell, the better.

I don't know about the full convertible shell frames...I'm sure there's a metal frame in there somewhere, but try to get the mounting screws/bolts for the window to go through the metal. When it comes time to cut the fiberglass, I used a angle grinder with a masonry blade...I tried a few things, that seemed to work the best for me, plus if you hit the metal, you'll know and may need to switch off to a diamond blade if you're going to keep cutting.

If you're getting a full hardtop, it should have had a fold up window to start with, so I would try to see if you can use the same hinge mounting points for at least a couple of the bolts. Just start looking around for shells with windows, and have your cardboard template behind the seat so you can compare the shape to what you need...you'll find something pretty quick. I know the full size trucks from the mid 80's to late 90's, both ford and GM, seemed to all be about right, it's just the angles on the corners and the height of the window that you need to make sure you don't have too much cutting to do to install it.
 
never posted a finished photo, so here it is. Love the raptor liner, easy to work with and very tough. Windows were a PITA by myself, but it can be done. Lots of soapy water and I used those plastic "disposable" putty knives from HD, the yellow ones. Don't rush putting back the weatherstrip on the bottom of the shell. Make sure it's straight and dry before you put the shell on or you'll rip it up or it will look wavy.

IMG_0048.JPG
 
hellfire, that's GOOD STUFF.

Most of this is the white areas on the roof. Why I feel the need to fix this, I can't say.

As to that, and to anyone watching - It's a different fiberglass laid differently, but in my day job I see a lot of fiberglass antennas (2" - 3" tubes with the actual copper antenna inside). When the topcoat fails, the exposed fibers become absorptive - they'll suck water out of the air, and of course, rain. Water, as I'm sure you know, is the devil. It goes everywhere, is the root cause of all evil, and stays where you don't want it.

In an antenna, when the gelcoat lets go, you replace the damn thing (It's cheaper to drop and replace than to paint on the tower). For the K5 top, well they aren't making them anymore, so some maintenance and upkeep can save your investment.
 

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