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Finally build thread worthy material

So I called a muffler shop (just for the hell of it) to try and sort out my front driveshaft issues and see what I am up against - stock y pipe would currently hit front driveshaft now with lift....

They said...they do all the y pipe re routing for the local 4 wheel parts...

Said I can get a custom Y pipe, with new cat, and flowmaster 40 series for just over $600....I almost $#it myself. I know I dont "need" the new muffler and cat...but they are original, and I wouldnt mind some rubble...but geez, thats expensive.

I asked if they planned on just dropping the Y pipe lower, and he said sometimes thats what they do..but would have to see my truck in person. Dropping the Y pipe seems like a step in the wrong direction.

I then asked about true duals, they said it would be even more. And that with 2 cats total, they dont heat up enough to really do their job and I may not pass inspection.

**a local guy has offered to trade me his headers and duals (no cats) for my stock system. We looked, and it appears our trucks are a bit different in regards to the crossmember, and his tcase side exhaust would have clearance issues. any ideas on that route?

Am I getting fed a line of crap? What would yall do.... I a pricing all this out to see what bodily organ I have to sell on the black market to get this truck done and ready for a trip.
 
same as you. 4" lift, all springs. Corp 14 with 35s. I'm also getting new angle shims. I have 2degree shims now, gunna order 8degree from ballistic fab. Yeah when it all comes in I'll post pics. I'd love a SYE and a splined shaft but couldn't "budget it" (convince the wifey)
 
If you're going to order LMC's nerfs talk to Kert at DIY4x first. I priced the nerfs and they were rediculously expensive and with shipping were in the high $400's. I bought a set of sliders from Kert, including a custom change to them, had them shipped, and then paid to have them Rhino Lined and was at something like $520.

sliders > nerf bars
 
how much help do the sliders give as an actual step? I realize the are great for body protection...but I am not there yet...I just need a step. Its even hard for me to get in right now.

Curious tho...how did you mount the rock sliders? got pics?
 
Do a search for a thread by me called, "I have a K5!" My pseudo-build thread in The Garage. Bunch of pictures of them and them on the truck.

Kert's mount to the body mounts behind the rockers and they're super stable and stick out around as far as a typical nerf bar. You can change that a bit by changing the angle they are at but still, they make excellent steps.
That's really all mine are used for but I figured if I was going to get some and they were going to end up costing me $500 I might as well buy something that will still be there in 5 years, will take a beating, and actually will protect the truck.

Plus they're great fun in parking lots when morons park too close.
 
Didt read past page 8 so im not sure if this was mentioned.
When i lifted the rear of my truck, it would vibrate, clank clutter and grind like all hell when i let off the gas, i pulled two leaves out and that went away for the most part. Its simply too much angle for the shafts. It felt like my tcase was about to grenade
 
Okay back to driveshaft. I think at this point I need to focus on just having a lengthened CV style driveshaft built. No money in the near future for a slip yoke eliminator.

With that being said. I want to figure out my angles. I am lucky to have enough shaft exposed to measure the actual slip yoke for transfer case angle. That should be accurate right

I simply stuck my angle meter to the exposed slip yoke shaft

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1322714174.282810.jpg
 
I called the local driveshaft shop, and they estimate it will cost $400 to get me a CV style driveshaft with a slip yoke. I think thats what i have to do for now...the SYE and everything will have to wait.

Now, they told me to bring the shaft and yoke with me. But asked me to measure from one of the 4 flat spots on the diff end, to one of the 4 flat spots on the tcase end. didnt make much sense over the phone. can somebody describe to me what measurements they are going to need?
 
496truck said:
The slip yoke that will work with a CV is a specific application. The shop that did mine provided it for the new shaft. Was not in stock, they had to order it.

Best way to get a cap to cap measurement, remove the d-shaft, remove the slip yoke from the u-joint, slide it into the t-case and leave a proper amount of shaft exposed (this is to account for suspension uptravel), and measure from the center of the yokes u-joint cap hole to the center of the u-joint cap hole on the pinion.

I would say.... 2" of the slip yoke shaft exposed is a safe bet. Someone correct me if they think otherwise.

Come to think of it, you don't need to remove the yoke from the shaft. Just unbolt it from the pinion, slide it into the t-case and let the shaft hang. Now you can measure from cap to pinion.

Oh, and maybe this goes without saying, you want the weight of the truck on it's axles/tires. So, chock the wheels before unbolting the driveshaft.
Click to expand...

There is no "flat" at the t-case to measure from. What they want is center of u-joint to center of u-joint measurement. The "flat" on the rear pinion represents the center of the rear joint. So, do what I highlighted in red.
 
Ok, so I just called driveshaft superstore...and got some pricing. Tell me if all this sounds normal.

1. rear shaft (with their "hack" SYE kit) High Angle CV shaft with 1350s on both ends. (SYE $185) (shaft $425) = $610

2. front shaft also high angle CV= $425

$35-45 shipping.....2 day turn around.

FYI, their SYE seems to be the type you drill and tap into the output shaft of the Tcase.

....im interested in yalls thoughts. If this is a good enough fix and not just a "hold me over" thing...then I may just be asking for cash for xmas ;)
 
my shaft just came in, i'll post some pictures within a week, when i find time to install it, along with the angle shims.
alot of shops do free shipping or $5 flat rate.
 
I guess I dont understand....but how does a CV shaft help, if the angle at the differential is too steep (even binding?)

I see how it cleans up the angle at the tcase...but cant figure out how it helps the bottom.

I asked the guy at the DS place about a CV on both ends...he said that was for like 24" of lift. Why not in cases like mine?
 
You need to do some reading on the Tom Woods site. It will do alot of explaining of how the u-joints work and their angles.

Specifically this page...

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html

Sometimes their site will not let you direct link it. You have to go to their home page first. So if my direct link doesn't work look for their "driveline101" link from their home page.
 
A cv shaft HAS TO HAVE the pinion yoke pointed strait at the t case output.
The angle AT THE CASE doesn't matter, but the pinion angle has to be fixed.
It doesn't fix itself.

I had to remove the spring perches, and weld on new ones, at the proper angle.
To get mine to play ball....

Just thought I'd toss that in there.
 
That makes more sense. I understand the angles need to match...if they dont, then you need the CV to bandaid the situation and cut out vibration, but you have to point the pinion at the tcase.

What I didnt understand is how the CV was going to fix the pinion angle. Now I recognize that it DOESNT. So thats why I was confused.

Thanks.

I need to make a move, and get the truck driving. Its just a waste sitting in my driveway. I dont have the funds to go all out and do it right just yet.

I am thinking, I may just have my current shaft retubed to be longer (just had it rebuilt right before the lift, so the ujoints are new)

this way, its safe, and not going to pull out of the tcase, and I can drive it around town, to the store and back, etc...and atleast not just stare at it. Worst case, I wear out ujoints...but that may take while if I am only putting like 250 miles a month on it...who knows.

meanwhile, save up, for the full monty. (tcase rebuild - REAL SYE - CV shaft - move spring perches, etc)

I am going to try a new way of measuring the pinion angle so I can compare to the tcase angle and see what I am working with.
 
Local shop is going to re-tube my current driveshaft for $180. With the money and the holidays...this is my only option if I want to drive the truck any time soon.

This way, I can drive it without worrying about the slip yoke pulling out. I am taking my measurements tonight, and they should have it done in a few days if I can get it dropped off on saturday.

I will just have to deal with it until it wears out my ujoints....when that happens, I should be in a better situation and be able to do things the best way.
 
dieselndixie said:
Local shop is going to re-tube my current driveshaft for $180. With the money and the holidays...this is my only option if I want to drive the truck any time soon.

This way, I can drive it without worrying about the slip yoke pulling out. I am taking my measurements tonight, and they should have it done in a few days if I can get it dropped off on saturday.

I will just have to deal with it until it wears out my ujoints....when that happens, I should be in a better situation and be able to do things the best way.
Click to expand...

Bad idea. You're "throwing me out of the truck" vibrations are from that joint angle. Save the money or find a used cv somewhere and have them use it. Please please pleasseee don't spend another 200 for another problem.
 
Yes: I also opted for pinion angle shims from DIY4X. I was riding on 2 degree shims for some years and never had any real problems, and only wore U joints out every once and awhile. (and i drove it ALOT more than I do now, on the highway, on trips...) That was was the 10 bolt, but now with the 14FF it vibrates and the shaft is at a really nasty angle so my new shims are 8 degrees and should get my pinion angle closer to where it needs to be. The driveshaftis more for precaution and strength, and yes, to help with the angle at the tcase and to get the slip yoke to engage more on the output shaft.

This weekend: proposing to my girlfriend, so hopefully next week I can work on it and post some picture, hopefully on Wednesday.
 
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