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Finally build thread worthy material

Ok. Did some measuring so I can have the shaft retubed.

Pinion angle 10 degrees
Tcase angle. 8 degrees
Shaft angle 25 degrees

New shaft needs to be 31.5 inches from center point to centerpoint in order to only have 2 inches of exposed yoke.

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If you did your measuring right, it sounds about right. Maybe find a 2* shim to point that pinion down a bit.
 
Well I measured the transfer case angle by sticking the angle meter to the exposed yoke. I measured the drive shaft angle by sticking the angle meter to the actual driveshaft. I measured the pinion angle by putting the angle meter up against the center point of the pinion. I unbolted the pinioned side of the driveshaft and slid it forward until the yoke was around 2 inches exposed. That seems to be about where it was from stock considering I used the dirty marks on the yoke. Then I measured from the center point of the U joint Fixed to the yolk. All they way to the center point of the pinion ujoint (if it would have been there) . A.k.a. the flat portion of the pinion with no u joint attached.

Looks like I will be lengthening my DS by 2.25 inches. Will this help my driveshaft angle at all even if it's only a little bit.
 
If it gets you by for a while then so be it. Dshaft angle isn't the concern so much as ujoint angle. Your ujoint angle is about the max you want to run.

Your t ase is 8* down and pinion 10* up which isn't good. Look for a 2 or 3 degree shim to get that pinion down to 7 or 8. Less chance for driveline vibes that way.
 
When u say shims. You are talking about these right? These are what came with the spring pack. I would be replacing them right?

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yep shims on pack already.

for ultimate best results get new perches from diy4x or ruff stuff and set the angle you will need and remove the shims on the packs already and go all spring no wedge. then weld them on there.
 
Is that as hard as it sounds? I got an angle grinder and a small mig welder. I am only decent with either Is this something I need to have a shop do?
 
not major work just make sure welder can do good burn in and weld.

otherwise its basic setup and 10x better than running shims.

and fyi most lift spring shims come with cheep aluminum shims that will squezze out and deform over time. at least thay do up here in the rust belt. :doah:
 
Therein lies the problem. He's trying to get by without a cv shaft right now. If he's going to cut and reweld perches he may as well hold out for the cv shaft.

In the meantime, remove the shims that are in there and then measure the pinion angle. Might be better and no need to buy any shims.

Or, you could do what most of us don't speak of. Drop the t-case down a bit by lowering it.... Certainly not the best idea but will get you by till you can weld on new perches and get a cv shaft.
 
How hard is it to remove the shims? I guess that would point the pinion down just a bit. Right?

Oh and 77_jimmy definitely knows my troubles. He is local so I bug him all the time.

If I remove the shims and the tcase and pinion angle end up being the same....would that at least be decent. If that doesn't work I am seriously wondering if I am better off removing this damn lift. I had to borrow the wifes suv just to tow my dirtbike ti the track today Ugh
 
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un bolt u-bolts and let axle drop a bit.

BIG c-clamp to hole springs together and unbolt center pin. no c-clamp and sh!t will start flying :doah:

remove shim and reinstall preferably new center pin or 3/8 bolt with head ground round not hex like normal.

then jack axle back up and reinstall u-bolts.
 
Pretty easy to remove the shims. Just unbolt, lower and pull out.

On the T-Case.....it did help mine out to be more drivable. My truck came with a T-case drop and I removed it. Unfortuantely, I got so much MORE driveline vibration I couldn't really drive over 35 or 40 mph. I got a Skyjacker T-case kit and it's much better. Yes, folks in here will tell you it places more of a load on your motor mounts but it helped in my case. It basically puts more downward stress on the motor mounts.

As a bonus, it pushes the yoke back into the T-case a little more too. Maybe 3/4" or so.

I will also, eventually put in a full CV style drive shaft with a SYE but for now, the budget does not allow. I do have a "little" vibration but WAY better than before! Drivable all the way to 75 mph without any problems.
 
so, to be sure I understand the whats and the whys...

if I remove the shims, it will point my pinion down just a tad...which should hopefully make the tcase and pinion angles match. This will help with vibration, but wont do anything for u-joint wear (maybe even make it a bit worse)

is that right? I understand that this is just a temporary solution. But it should give me several months to get some money saved to do the SYE, CV, spring perches, etc if thats the route I choose.

I will have my retubed DS back in a couple days.
 
You are correct. You want the angles to match for the least chance of vibration. And it is OK if the pinion is about 1* down because when under power spring wrap will happen and the angles will match.

So, 8* down at the t-case.
7-8* up at the pinion.
That's about what you are looking for with a standard driveshaft (non cv).
 
jeff in co said:
I will also, eventually put in a full CV style drive shaft with a SYE but for now, the budget does not allow. I do have a "little" vibration but WAY better than before! Drivable all the way to 75 mph without any problems.
Click to expand...

any idea what angles you have? tcase, DS, pinion?
 
Just picked up my new retubed driveshaft. If this rain lets up I will get to install it tonight and give it a try. At least it should be safely drivable while I get everything else sorted

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Nice. That pic makes ur hand look massive or the D-shaft look like its 3/4" in diameter lol.
 
haha, i noticed that. some weird camera angle thing from my cell phone pic. I do have beast hands, but that makes my DS look like a toothpic
 
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