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Finally got my membership! and a few more questions for you about lockers

Interesting, Yeah ARB seems really pricy and im trying to go with a cheap, effective build. I guess i could keep the front open but i mean what the hell, it would just be really nice in sand to have it lock. Anyone else hear anything on that locking one hub deal? And i swear i saw someone say something about a steering mod that alowed for easier stearing while the front ends locked?
 
I'd start off locking the rear. Maybe a limited slip for the front?

As to making the front easier to steer with a locker, I think you are speaking of hydro assist steering. It is a hydraulic ram that mounts to your tie-rod to assist your steering. I don't know as how it'd be worth it when all you're planning to run is 33's.
 
so it shouldnt be that bad turning with 33s with a locked front? I was looking at another thread which was asking the difference between locked and limited slip diffs. Everyone said to go locked but what wasnt specifyed is whats the big disadvantage for limited slip compared to a locker other than it wearing out? Again, price is gonn have alot to do with this because even 400 is a decent ammount for me for a locker, chance are i wont be doing both at once even though id like to, though you never know.
 
I'd just go for locking the rear for now. As to the front (take this with a grain of salt since it is totally just my opinion), I personally wouldn't want to run an automatic locker, a spool, or a welded diff. That's the reason why I am going to be running an ARB. If I couldn't afford a selectable locker and was dead set on getting some sort of traction adder for the front end, the limited slip would be my choice simply because it wouldn't effect steering/maneuvering as much as a locker. I personally would just get a a rear locker for now and call it good enough! You will definitely notice an improvement in traction just by locking the rearend!
 
I wouldn't dump to much $$$ into a 10-bolt rear end if I was you. Take it from someone who did. For your application... if you were going to put something in the rear diff, I'd recommend a Detroit Trutrac. My old 10 bolts had them, and they work pretty well without ****ing up road manners...
 
IF you were to lock the front, and had to take a tight turn on a trail, then you could get out and unlock one hub it make it easier, not all the time.

I would leave the front alone, do the rear and see could be all you need.

as for wearing out you asked about. your passenger rear tire will wear a bit more with a locker, diffs are "open" for the street right? so when you go a round a corner you out side tire travels farther then your inside. If you are locked the inside one will chirp and it is traveling as much as the out side one. Some lockers do brake open for this also.
 
Thanks, ill look into the trutracs. I still may go for a locked rear and may put the trutrac up front. Cause i heard with a locker as long you let of the gas so theres no torque going to it it should unlock and allow the wheel movement, i dont accelerate around turns in the truck haha. Unless i want to spin the tires.
 
If it were me, I would just start with the rear and go from there. You would be surprised what a rear locker will do for ya. My friend has a hardcore wheelin truck, and the front is still open on his truck, he hasnt had a problem yet. He figures he would rather get stuck then break something.
 
good advice. I think ill throw the locker in come spring, and see from there. Thanks. Now i just need to see what i can find as far as axles. Im gonna wait till spring. Im gonna need to hit the junkyard, cant find much on craigslist.
 
Which would be better for his application? A Detroit trutrac or a Powertrax No slip? Do they pretty much work the same? They both have the mechanics to allow turning without chirping and wearing out the tires. Just wondering because no one suggested the Powertrax No slip.
 
I *think* there are basically the same workings, I was looking for the big write up on lockers I had but can't find it. But for a DD wheeler it would be a good choice. A traditional one will wear your tires a bit but not too bad, rotation is the key
 
You should check to see what is in your rear diff before you buy a locker for it. You may already be locked. GM put Gov locks stock in a lot of their trucks. They are a locker and work ok for tires up to 33". Look in your glove box. there is a sticker there with all the RPO codes. If you have a gov lock it will say G80 for the axle code.
 
Ill take another look in that case. will it unlock with one of the wheels off the ground? Cause then wouldnt that defeat the purpose of a locker? And i hear they're ticking time bombs so wouldnt that just make me wanna replace it faster? haha
 
1978Blazerk5 said:
He figures he would rather get stuck then break something.
Click to expand...

if thats the philosophy you're gonna live by, you definitely don't want to lock a rear 10 bolt. :crazy: :shocked: ka-BOOM and next thing you know, one of your rear wheels is rolling past you on the trail. :crazy:
 
With all that being said in the last three pages. If you put any money into a 10bolt its still a ten bolt, which for some will last forever and be fine, others have done it and only wasted money.

there are two ways to go about upgrading you truck wheel what you got and fix when you break, or park in garage and buy stuff that you think you need then put it in or have it sit on the shelf for ever and web wheel :bow:

My vote, wheel what you got replace the 10bolts when they break, not fix your miles ahead replacing them.
 
Code in the glove box will be G80 if the truck came from the factory with the Gov-lock. Best to open up the housing and look. Gov-locks in the 10 bolts do tend to have issues, pretty hard to test them. You can try both wheels in the air, rotate one (by hand) as quick as you can. If it's working right, my experience has been that you'll get it to lock.

There have been many posts about the gov-lock on here, and how they work, and how they fail, you might want to research that. When they work, as long as your wheelspeed isn't that high (over 25MPH) when you wheel, then you should be fine. If you need wheelspeed, they are no good for your application.

Besides the fact that even under throttle they aren't locked except under certain circumstances, so if you need traction all the time, a locker is the way to go. Truetrac/posi's are ok, but are still a problem if you end up with much of the vehicle weight only on one tire of that axle.
 
Gov locks are are open untill one wheel looses traction. It senses the slip and locks the axle. So raising the truck and spinning one tire will not tell you if you have a gov lock.
Check your RPO code or pull thhe inspection cover to see if you have one.
I run a gov lock in the back and a No slip locker in the front. I have no problems with the gov lock.
I acually pulled out my detroit and put the rebuilt gov lock in 2 years ago. I really wanted to see if they were as bad as everyone says. No problems yet. I like the gov lock it works as it should and is a great streetable locker. If I do blow it I have a detroit or a lockrite/open carrier sitting on the shelf to replace it with.
I wont deny gov locks are weak. If you want larger tires than 33" or have a heavy right foot. Get a detriot.
 
wow. Very good advice. Ill have to take a look to see what she has. But it seems like the govlock fuctions more like a limited slip than a locker? I think i may just go detroit, but its all about performance. IF i have a govlock ill have to play around with it to see how it reacts offroad.
 
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