CK5
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Finally my 383 build
- Thread starter nsxxtreme
- Start date
Only thing that kinda surprised my is I only needed to clearence the block near the main bearing on one side. The rest of the block there was plenty of clearence for the counter weights.
Tomorrow I'll stick a rod on and check to make sure those are all clearenced.
Tomorrow I'll stick a rod on and check to make sure those are all clearenced.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Has your block already been clearanced? If so looks clean.
Have you already assembled pistons to check clearance with cam?
Use using a 5.7 or 5.565 rod?
Sorry bout the questions
Have you already assembled pistons to check clearance with cam?
Use using a 5.7 or 5.565 rod?
Sorry bout the questions
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Make sure you put the cam in also and line it up where it should be. A few rod bolts may want to hit
Kit came with Eagle 5.7" Bushed SIR I-beam Rods
Haven't clearenced those yet will probably happen tomorrow.
(never done any of this but I've seen this kind of work done in person) my disclaimer 
depending on the rods and hardware used, check to make sure the pan clearance is right and that the rod bolts don't also hit the block. For some reason I remember the rod hardware hitting the block at one point. Dunno
depending on the rods and hardware used, check to make sure the pan clearance is right and that the rod bolts don't also hit the block. For some reason I remember the rod hardware hitting the block at one point. Dunno
Stomis
Professional Amateur
I was about to ask you "Is that an NSX in the background!?" then I saw your name lol.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
I was thinkin', "well no sh*t, he needs a stroker.... The bastard drives an NSX!" 
zombie1969
1/2 ton status
I know a stock 5.7 rod will hit the block and cam unless a small base circle cam is used.You need to be real careful not to hit a water jacket.Then take everything to a machine shop and have them cleaned good because metal chips get every where.Used 5.7 rods in my 406 and was just as much work as a 383 I did.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
What he said. I'll be using the arp 383 rod bolts next time to see how much they need.clearanced next time
They aren't factory rods. They have much smaller bolts. I ordered the lunati 60120 cam today so when I get that I'll start clearencing the rods. I thought I saved the old cam specifically for this purpose but I guess I tossed it. Oh well I'll resume next weekend.
Are you turning the crank in the bearings dry?
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Stomis
Professional Amateur
rampage
3/4 ton status
Me too, but the scratching on the crank says no.
I think your seeing things plenty of assembly lube is being used.
Looking at the pics I guess I could see how you might come to that conclusion. But I think what you seeing is the assembly lube.
Those aftermarket rods will help, but make sure to check every rod bolt vs the cam, when the cam is degreed to where you will run it. When I did mine with factory rods it was only 2 or 4 rods that were going to hit the cam, don't remember it was a long time ago. Pretty much every one hit the block. You need at least .050" clearance. I guess my point is, just because one rod clears the cam, doesn't mean it will on every cylinder because it can hit the lobes, not just the base circle. Although you might be OK with those rods. Remember, if you change the cam centerline, it will change the clearance.
